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Hello I'm Cory and new to the Forum, trying to decide between a midsize 570 or full size 570. I really like the midsize for it's ability to maneuver better in tight areas and just overall size. With that being said I know I am going to lift it and run 28" tires. I know both will need at least a lift and midsize will need forward A arms, however I have noticed a bad camber issue with the midsize and lifts. Are the camber issues coming from people stacking lifts? Or will I have a camber issue with any 2" lift? I was looking at the super ATV style lift, Thanks in advance
 

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yes youll have a little camber with a single 2" lift, nothing extreme from what ive experienced. the only reason my camber got real bad was when I started adding spring spacers to the 2" lift. to fit 28s yes you will need 2" lift and forward a arms, youll also need both those mods to run 28s on the fullsize also, not just the midsize, so don't let that be the deciding factor.
 

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u can get bigger lifts for a full size that's my only regret that an I hate the struts
 

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negative on the forward a arms with 28s im running a superatv 2 in lift with 28x9x12 mega mayhems front 28x11x12 rears on stock rims on my 2014 570 midsize no camber issues no rubbing plenty of power over 600 miles on bike no issues
 

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Those struts are the biggest drawback to the midsize, IMO. They aren't bad, but dual a-arms gives you more options.
 

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To the guy running the meyhams, the only reason you don't rub is cause your meyhams don't run anywhere close to a 28" tire. They run very short. Grab you some outlaw radials or any other true tire and you won't make it out your driveway
 

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I'll post a pic tomorrow when I get home
 

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28s

To the guy running the meyhams, the only reason you don't rub is cause your meyhams don't run anywhere close to a 28" tire. They run very short. Grab you some outlaw radials or any other true tire and you won't make it out your driveway
Mine read exactly 28 at 12psi stock rims
 

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Measu r them the correct way and they won't add up. Measure around the tire and divide by 3.14, I promise they not 28. That or you have a 1 in a million mystery machine that will fit 28s without rubbing
 

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measurement

Measu r them the correct way and they won't add up. Measure around the tire and divide by 3.14, I promise they not 28. That or you have a 1 in a million mystery machine that will fit 28s without rubbing
I measured them again ur right im wrong i put a level across top of tire measured from concrete to level 27 11/16 at 12 psi u know I have 1.16 clearance to inside fender well I think I can run 29s
 

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cory setexarrowslinger a member on here has a pic of his 570 with 28 mayhems same as mine u may want to look at pics of his bike
 

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Buddy you run 29 on a midsize with no forward a arms and don't rub I'll sign you over the pink slip to my ranger. You can't run any tire over a 27 without forward a arms unless your 28s like the meyhams run short.
 

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me an sawsall fit any tire on any ting
 

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Hahahaha ok fit them without hacking your floor boards up with a sawzall lol
 
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Don't know if this will work on the newer models or not, but an old school method for gaining a "little bit" of clearance on the back of your wheel wells is to use a heat gun and a basketball. Turn your wheel so the back of the tire is on the outside then heat up the area of your wheel well where the rubbing is occurring (careful - don't melt it!). While it is still hot, jam a basketball (or some other cylindrical object) between the tire and the wheel well as you turn the wheel straight - may stretch out your wheel well just enough for the tires to clear(?). To clear the front bumper, see Rum Runner's post above... :sneakiness:
 
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Yeah I honestly don't see that working without it looking horrible but it's worth a try
 

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As you lift any vehicle without changing the ball joint angle you will get added positive camber. The problem is there is NO camber adjustment mechanism on the OEM Ranger suspension (especially on the strutted models). This can be overcome by 2 methods:
1. Adding adjustable camber plates which is done on many strutted race cars (relatively expensive but precise). I know of NO aftermarket manufacturer for the Ranger at this time.
2. Use a pre-engineered aftermarket lower A-Arm with more negative camber built in (see example in pic below). Notice the angled ball joint mounting position vs. OEM. This adds negative camber to off set the lift's positive camber and brings the wheel back to OEM camber specs.
The 2nd pic is an example of a typical aftermarket racing camber plate (Mustang) which becomes the strut/shock top mount. It bolts to the frame in place of the top mount. It is adjustable for both Camber and Castor

IMG-20140818-00105.jpg

ccp4-mustang_fs.jpg
 

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Worm, all forward a arms come with the ball.joint plate like that buddy
 

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He knows and was showing that to the OP.
 
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