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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on a 2019 ranger 1000 with A/C. Had a hole in the radiator and was ran with extremely low, almost no coolant before the guy thought it was an issue. We pulled the radiator out and sent it to a radiator shop to get fixed. They used some sort of epoxy to fix it and that ended up leaking in a few hours. The guy drove it a few days and just added coolant. The leak was actually now worse after the fix and the ranger was overheating pretty bad. He had also added a bunch of stop leak to it also. So that didn't help any.

We put a new radiator in, I bled it and drove it for a while. The fan cycled on and off 3 or 4 times. Temps were consistent and it would get up to 207 fan would kick on and it would drop to 183. The guy picks it up the next morning and drives a half mile and it overheats. Temp went right up to 230. We bleed it again and it cools down but temps are erratic but not overheating.

I then decided to flush the coolant system and change the thermostat. Once again I bleed it and run it till it cycles the fan a few times. But once again after it cools off and you restart it, the temperature will spike and although after initial spike won't get hot again it will be extremely erratic and jump 5-10 degrees constantly. It will never just go up and down steadily like all rangers do.

After a compression and leak down test and pressurizing the coolant system all of which test good. I decide it is pushing air into coolant system from combustion chamber as it gets hot. So I decided to change the head gasket. I also changed temp sensor while I'm at it.

After changing head gasket and bleeding multiple times, trying many different methods, it still after sitting and cooling off for an hour or so. The temp will spike and be erratic. Sometimes it won't cool well at all unless you crack bleeder screw while running and it will hiss for 20-30 seconds. This will fix it temporarily until it cools off again.

I have bled it with front end up, bled it with it flat, with it running, with it running and front end up. Sometimes after one of these methods it will have steady temp and you can get the fan to cycle and drop temp as many times as you want. But once cool it will act up again.

Not sure where to go at this point. Any good ideas?




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I gotta say that that 'owner' is about a brick short of a load.... Unbelievably stupid and deserves a WHOPPER of a bill.

CAR, still sounds like a head gasket issue to me. Do the combustion gas test on the radiator ..
 

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At this point I think I would begin to suspect the water pump impeller. If the impellers on that model year are plastic the overheating may have damaged it so now it won't move coolant effectively.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At this point I think I would begin to suspect the water pump impeller. If the impellers on that model year are plastic the overheating may have damaged it so now it won't move coolant effectively.
Yep that was my next check and then pull head again and have it pressure tested for cracked head. Looks like I need to pull alternator and at least unbolt compressor to get to the water pump?

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Yep that was my next check and then pull head again and have it pressure tested for cracked head. Looks like I need to pull alternator and at least unbolt compressor to get to the water pump?

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You can avoid pulling the head again by doing as jungleman suggested and doing a combustion gas leak test in the radiator. The tool isn't very expensive, probably less than your time materials for pulling the head and replacing the gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Water pump was unfortunately metal. Bought the combustion tester and fluid never turned color although to use it I had to dump and ton of coolant because the coolant level is fluctuating so bad. I will send a video once it uploads to you tube. I'm thinking I may try and remove the thermostat even though it is new and see what happens?


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CAR, soooooo if your impellar is good and you have no sign of exhaust gas in the coolant, new radiator and plenty of circulation then I would have to say that you need to take more time bleeding . Front end up ........gloves on and squeeze those hoses...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CAR, soooooo if your impellar is good and you have no sign of exhaust gas in the coolant, new radiator and plenty of circulation then I would have to say that you need to take more time bleeding . Front end up ........gloves on and squeeze those hoses...
Ive installed plenty of 900 engines, drained/replaced coolant, and never had an issue bleeding them.

I've tried bleeding this one on flat ground. With the front end up, with the engine cold, with it hot.

Do you have a procedure you use?

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CAR, what was the exact results of the compression & leak down that prompted the head gasket change ?.. Did someone check the head for warpage ?
 

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CAR , you have got to be plenty frustrated by now . To answer your bleeding question, I get the front end up and open the bleed screw and fill the radiator and 3/4 fill the recovery bottle . I then install the MITYVAC cooling test kit (MV4560) and run the pressure up to 13 pounds and walk away. I come back in twenty minutes and refill the radiator and pump it up again to 13 pounds.. In twenty minutes I fill it up again and close the bleed screw and start it up and keep the radiator full and run 2-3 fan cycles.. Cap it after pressure testing the cap and then go for a drive. I always recheck the recovery bottle for aday or two after to make sure it is about half full .. That's it... And I have NEVER seen a Polaris Ranger stat that was bad.......even with the heat we deal with here on the island .
 
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Would a bad rad cap cause the issues?
 

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With all the bs he's been through....I'd throw a new one on to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
CAR, what was the exact results of the compression & leak down that prompted the head gasket change ?.. Did someone check the head for warpage ?
Not gonna lie I pry jumped to conclusions a little with the headgasket. I don't remember exact numbers but it had 150+ compression and both cylinders were within 10% of each other. Leak down was 5-7% on both cylinders.

I had put the new Polaris radiator in (it did come with a new cap). I bled it and cycled the fan a few times temps are consistent rising to 207 then dropping to 183 consistently. Next morning temps are extremely inconsistent jumping up 10 degrees at times and then dropping without fan running. I decided to flush it again and throw in a new t stat since he had dumped the stop leak in it.

The reason I did replace head gasket is because it would cool correctly at times but then after it had cooled off and then restarted it would have fits and when bleeder was cracked would let a ton air out. So I assumed that maybe the higher pressure of combustion was pushing combustion gases into cooling system.

I checked head for warpage using a straight edge and .0039" feeler guage, which is Polaris spec.

I have a new mag cover gasket coming tomorrow for it and will get that put back together. I will try bleeding it like you said JM. Unfortunately service manual doesn't tell you how to remove bottom AC compressor bolt which is a pain to get to and only shows 3 bolts holding compressor in.

Thanks for the help everyone. Ill keep yah updated.

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I've found that using a vacuum cooling system refiller has eliminated air pockets and trouble with bleeding the system on my 2015 Ranger 570 FS (XP chassis). I also use it on my personal vehicles. The one I have is like this: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...s=vacuum+coolant+filler&qid=1634084599&sr=8-5

No doubt similar units will work as well and there are vendors other than Amazon.

I can't say that I've heard of radiator hoses collapsing on Rangers, but on cars with water pumps that move a lot of volume soft hoses can collapse on the intake side at higher RPMs. This is the reason some radiator hoses (in most cases the lower hose on cars and light trucks) come with a spring inside them. I'm just tossing this out there even though I doubt the tiny water pump on the Polaris 900 can pull that much suction. Still, if the hose were defective, broken down internally or has bee soaked in oil for long periods of time it may be soft enough to collapse even with modest suction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok so bled it like JM suggested using exact procedure. About 20 seconds after starting, it started pushing coolant out so I capped it. Watch the video and just skip to were it is at about 190°F and watch it. The fan was not on. After it jumps and drops I crack bleeder and air comes out for approximately 15 seconds till antifreeze comes out bleeder.

I really don't think my combustion in antifreeze/block test was accurate because it is pushing coolant so bad.

I could order the vacuum coolant refiller and try that, just wondering if that will help considering I've never had trouble bleeding these motors.

I did try the old radiator cap.


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The pulsing coolant is the thermostat opening and closing in most cases. The erratic temperature guage reading may be a symptom of the same issue.
The issue I speak of is the coolant not being at the same temperature. Coolant is cool in the radiator. Hot in the motor. Thermostat opens and closes as temp difference passes through it.
Get passed initial start up and get passed all the pulsing and erratic temp readings. You may have to crack the cap a time or two to get the hot spots moving if temp gets high and holds. Thermostat should react at the pressure release when you bump the cap. Once this settles down all of the coolant should be reaching pretty much the same temperature. Now work on letting the air out of the system while it is running. Please use gloves and only bump off pressure without loosing control of the cap. Let the reservoir fill the system as much as possible and use bleeder screw and see if the system will level out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just a little update. Drove it for pry 3 hours this morning. Bleed it by having it warmed up with front end up and cracked bleeder twice. For 3 hours it worked perfectly. I shut it off for about 10 minutes and after starting it acted up again.

Im gonna order a vacuum bleeder and try that out.

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