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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked everywhere, and couldn't find one, so I made one.

Basic, very durable, lockable (sorta) and almost complete. I need to figure out how to seal the piano hinge, help appreciated if you have any ideas.

 

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Looks awesome, the way you slotted the rear holes to allow for easy locking/unlocking is brilliant!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How about taking a 3 inch wide strip of rubber and sandwiching it between the two section of the top so that covers the hinge and it is held in by the bolts that are holding your hinge to the two top sections.

See attached View attachment 11387
I like that, and it wil work, and I have just the right sized piece of rubber membrane. I shot this together with solid MS ----- AD 5-8 solid rivets, by myself. A few of them have some smiles on them, but it ain't flying anywhere, so I left them. It was difficult to do the reach around for the middle area, one hand driving the rivet, the other hand bucking the tail. I could drill them out and place a very thin piece of rubber membrane in, but I need another hand to hold it. I used cleekos (sp?) to assemble and have a series of pics along the way, haven't loaded them yet.

I was thinking that welding it together was a better option, but that wont work with a rubber seal.

Great job on the drafting board, btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks awesome, the way you slotted the rear holes to allow for easy locking/unlocking is brilliant!
My original intention was to provide a tie point for bungees and straps for the dog training gear I haul around that doesn't fit under the cover. The turn-latch kinda happened without much thought til I realized it would hold the plate down snug with seal compression under it. I thought of putting a dowel through both sides, then looked at it and realized I could just slap a paddle lock on it and it won't lift beyond the lock. The diamond plate is soft enough that if someone really wanted in, a little force would stretch the slots, and they could steal the contents, if I left it unattended long enough.
 

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I'm building a teardrop and did similar to the above. Except I covered the whole hinge and used a strip of aluminum on both sides of the hinge to secure the material down. I used vinyl from an old tonneau cover. Just let the material hang past the hinge a inch or so....helps keep the water out while traveling in the rain.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Trying to post a few pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
 

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Thanks for the good job on the drafting. I got the idea for the seal from my Fold-a-cover tonneau cover. It is not water tight but keeps out almost all water unless it is a really hard rain or I let snow pile up on it and do not clear it off before it melts.

That is a long reach to back up those rivets you need one of the neighborhood kids to stop by to help you out ... I always have the same problem when I am building something not enough hands, and my arms are not long enough.

Anyhow good job on the build and keep the pictures coming.
 

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How much w/shipping? LOL, great write-up and pix. Would it be easier, to rivit if it was off the bed. Or is that not an option?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How much w/shipping? LOL, great write-up and pix. Would it be easier, to rivit if it was off the bed. Or is that not an option?
I did the riveting on the bed just for the sake of stability while shooting rivets. It could be done off, but likely need another person able to handle one side.

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Nice job very neat and well done. How hard was it to bend the aluminum. Did you have a break for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nice job very neat and well done. How hard was it to bend the aluminum. Did you have a break for that.
Yes, I have access to a break. It can be done without one though.

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