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Discussion Starter #1
I discovered this past weekend that my 2019 Ranger with a Duraclutch will easily climb a hill that it seems it can't safely descend. Once climbed there was no choice but to descend. Any words of advice are appreciated?
 

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I'm not following what you're describing.

What is unsafe about your descent?
 

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If I remember right with the duraclutch it's ADC can be to aggressive allowing the back wheels to start sliding in the right conditions.
 

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There is no ADC to a DC, just EBS.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The engine braking only works on the rear wheels and it tries to swap ends, the foot brake helps, but after the rear has started its slide it's too late. It's only happened to me once, and I would like to be prepared next time.
As far as not going up hills is concerned, the Yamaha with me had no problem.
 

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Will locking it in 4 wheel drive down hill correct this? Usually lock mine in 4x4 and put it in low, stays straight
 

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Short version.
EBS works via the clutch to slow the vehicle but it only works on the rear wheels.
The way the standard Hilliard unit works doesn't allow for the front to hold back because that is the way it operates to make it easy to steer while still having seamless AWD.
The present production ADC is a standard Hilliard unit with an additional electromagnet that acts on an armature plate that is keyed to an output hub that acts on the roller cage to hold it in the opposite orientation to the carrier to what the standard Hilliard magnet does.
When activated this will make the front tires hold back like a standard 4WD.

Edited
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will locking it in 4 wheel drive down hill correct this? Usually lock mine in 4x4 and put it in low, stays straight
My Ranger 900XP is what they call all wheel drive and the front only engages when the rear starts to spin (5 degrees of rear slip) and it only works in the foreword direction (if I understand it). The engine braking (EBS) with the Duraclutch is quite agressive to start and then fades, so on a steep and wet hill it starts the slide near the top, and good luck in correcting it with wet brakes.
 

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Man, all these TLA's are confusing me. (three letter acronyms). Would it be safer to shift into neutral and just use the brakes in iffy conditions?
 

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Maybe.
I have done that before with the 850 Sportsman with EBS I had and it usually worked for me.
It was so bad the Boss Lady got to where she wouldn't ride it down a slick steep hill.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Man, all these TLA's are confusing me. (three letter acronyms). Would it be safer to shift into neutral and just use the brakes in iffy conditions?
I don't think neutral would be a good idea, but with the same conditions I'll try starting down very slowly and try to keep it below the engine braking.
I was hoping someone with more experience than me would have found a solution:).
 

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I don't think neutral would be a good idea, but with the same conditions I'll try starting down very slowly and try to keep it below the engine braking.
I was hoping someone with more experience than me would have found a solution:).
Might want to try high gear then.
 

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Thanks rocknroll, difference being adc uses all 4 wheels. Me, with oem stuff....I just use what has been called the Texas 2 step.
 

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I have a 570 full size with the Duraclutch and use it on steep land. Since the Duraclutch provides engine braking but the standard Polaris AWD doesn't engage the front wheels until the back wheels have spun a portion of a rotation more than the front wheels the front wheels will not provide any resistance to rolling down steep hills. What I have found to work for me is to try to match braking with the resistance to the back wheels provided by the Duraclutch. By finessing the brake I can use the engine braking provided by the Dura in addition to resistance provided by the front brakes to keep the back from coming around. There is a little learning curve to get the seat of the pants feel but not very much.

Something I've considered it using a parking brake valve in the brake system to lock the back brakes out so only the front brakes would work during descent. Such a set up would allow matching front braking to be matched to engine braking of the rear wheels a simple process. The lock out would have to be applied manually and one would have to remember to unlock it after descent so all 4 wheels had brakes.

Brake line locks are made and not too expensive. There are electric and mechanical models. I have considered using one like this:
Line lock, manual brake lock, hydraulic brake park lock, pressure holder | eBay

Used only in the rear brakes it would provide a means of parking brake as well as being useful as described above.

Electric models offer the capability of mounting the switch anywhere and adding a light to the circuit to remind that the lock is activated. The down side is of course that electrics and mud/water encountered off road could impact reliability.
 

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This is probably my biggest gripe with our XP 1000. It'll climb just about any hill you can find, but coming down, it can be a less than pleasant experience at times. Between brakes and feathering the throttle, I can usually keep it somewhat composed. Some hills though, it doesn't matter what you do. We found a couple of those at Windrock and the wife was not thrilled. If you had a standard 4wd system and engine braking, you could crawl down most hills. ADC should really be standard equipment on Polaris vehicles, imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you all for your input!
The Polaris does have it's good points, but this is in my opinion is a serious flaw.
I'm thinking at this point that probably using hi gear and the foot brake for the next try.
 
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