[AK-Bandit]

I've stumbled across a few threads where guys are running custom bed racks. It seems that everyone has their own needs for what they use their bed for. I'm thinking about having one fab'ed up as a way to hold (2) 4gal rotopax gas cans, mainly for multiday trips. I wanted to keep as much bed space open as possible, allowing for more gear and hauling meat. I've CAD'd up a few designs I think would work, but I don't know which one would be optimal. The top of the gas cans sit about 2" below the top bar of the factory cab roll cage. I also wanted to be able to see out of the back window if possible as well. The pipe as drawn is 1.5" OD. Aluminum would be nice and lightweight.

 

[stainlessman]

Bandit you can buy the tube elbows in 90* and 45*degrees....short bend or long bend. I went through my tube collection here and was considering using stainless , its been a while since I checked to diameter of the hole in the Ranger bed side , but I think 1 1/4" tube dropped into the holes.

 

[SNWMBL]

Don't put gas up high, you want all your weight low in the bed. I've witnessed a couple Rangers tip over from being loaded top heavy.

Here's a thread of the one I built for mine. I still have a lot of modifications to make but it's worked great so far.
http://www.prcforum.com/forum/17-ranger-discussions/56129-my-rack-build.html

 

[Toxic-21]

Bandit you can buy the tube elbows in 90* and 45*degrees....short bend or long bend. I went through my tube collection here and was considering using stainless , its been a while since I checked to diameter of the hole in the Ranger bed side , but I think 1 1/4" tube dropped into the holes.

The bed holes are tapered apprx 5 to 10 degrees, the 1 1/4 apprx is at the top, if you put the straight pipe in the hole, the rack will not be stable, the pipe will dig into the plastic and could break the plug hole out. You need to measure down to the molded shelf in the bottom of the hole. But I would not use this method for mounting a rack to the bed. I would use angle across the top of the bed, distributes the weight better.
But in doing this, you will need to lock the bed down in some form. Do not rely on the latch mechanism that is there. The bed metal frame support on bottom can twist and unlatch, this is more prone on the 13-14 models, polaris changed the bed frame support for the 15 model, it is a more rigid design.

 

[HRTKD]

AK-Bandit, I prefer drawing #1 but could live with any of them. Ditto to what Greg said above about not expecting the pipe to hold all the weight in the hole, but instead use something on top of the bed rail to hold the weight.

 

[TG-OK]

A combo of 3 & 4 would maximize brush protection to your top cargo; and the absence of the rearward bracing to the bed in 1 & 2 (possibly extending the bed rail strapping only for additional strength) would allow more bedside overhang area for your meat trophies.

 

[AK-Bandit]

Thanks for the input guys. I want to have the design nailed down before I bring it to a fabricator. Shop rates are quite high here, and I'm trying to keep this reasonably priced.
SNWMBL, I've definitely considered the drawback of it being top heavy. I ended up brushing it off because I didn't think 50lbs would really make a difference up top. But it very well might. I really like the design of yours. I might draw up variation of yours that would allow me to mount both the rotopax gas cans in the bed, flat against the back bed wall. Another thing I want to add is a Kolpin gun boot mount, possibly right over top of the cans.


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[stainlessman]

SNWMBL.....where in the photo is the ice flow glacier ?? Like in Whittier ?

 

[SNWMBL]

It's Knik glacier.

I'd really try to keep the cans low if you can. Towards the front of the bed would be even better so you're not heavy in the back.