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Do any of you have a link to a full schematic for the gas Ranger?

Looking at the screenshots by Fswan most of the 2011 XP schematic looks to be the same for what I can see.

On the screenshot on the AWD switch, terminals 2 and 5 are key hot, wire BN.

Terminal 3, wire GN, is AWD,

Terminal 4, wire WH/DG, enables turf mode.

Terminals 1 and 6 are open.

When the switch is pushed all the way down to turf mode, a constant 12V is sent from terminals 2 and 5 to terminals 4 and 6. Terminal 4 is the only one doing anything.

When the switch is in the middle position, nothing is powered.

When pushed all the way up into the AWD position a constant 12V is sent from terminals 2 and 5 to terminals 1 and 3. Terminal 3 is the only one doing anything here.

All I did was provide power to both the AWD GN wire and the turf mode WH/DG wire at the same time.

Doing this left all the safeguards in place should you enable turf mode or AWD with the wheels spinning. On gassers as I understand the safeguard prevents it from engaging over 3200 rpm, on the diesel it's when travelling over 8 mph.

With my setup I used a crimp on wire tap and tapped onto the turf wire, without doing any splicing or cutting.

I've thought a bit about making this a little more streamlined and making the rear diff lock totally independent of the factory 3 position switch using a single pole switch for AWD and another single pole switch for diff lock.

I don't want to cut the factory plug off so I plan to add another wire tap on the AWD wire and go from there.

If you had a fancy connector that mated up to the factory AWD switch plug you could easily wire it out to two separate switches without any cutting or splicing, just plug and play with the ability to revert to the factory 3 position switch at any time.
 

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I really liked how the Ranger performed in some situations with the rear diff unlocked but AWD enabled so I ordered a switch from OTRATTW and wired it up permanently. I plan on getting another switch to replace the factory AWD switch with another switch that only has two positions.

Originally I wanted to do this for aesthetic reasons, but found earlier a technical reason to do so. This is the only issue I've found at all with powering the diff lock signal while in AWD.

To accurately explain the issue I have to tell you how I tied the switch into the system. Basically I put a crimp on wire tap on the wire feeding the rear diff unlock wire. The Polaris system operates by sending a 12V signal to the VCM. The VCM has some safeguards that govern when the diff can be locked in and then a module at the rear axle pulses the signal to either pull the solenoid in or out.

I found that if I left the OTRATTW rear diff unlock switch in the unlock position and the factory AWD switch in the unlock position that the new switch will backfeed the electrical system when the ignition key is turned off.

Mine is a unique in doing this however because I picked up power for the switch from my Painless Wiring add on distribution block. Since the ACC hot portion of the Painless block gets power directly from the battery and uses an ACC hot signal from the Ranger to operate it's relay, when both the add on OTRATTW switch and the factory switch are in the diff unlock position the OTRATTW switch feeds the factory switch and back to the ACC hot bus on the Ranger, which in turn holds the ACC hot portion of the Painless block in.

Fortunately there's not much load so there were no issues when I found this out and didn't damage anything. Leaving the AWD switch in any other position other than diff unlock won't cause it to happen. Which is why I want to replace the factory switch a regular two position switch that controls only AWD.

If you were to do this and pick up power from the factory ACC post or the factory ACC hot wire feeding the factory switch, you'd never see it happen.

To retain the factory switch plug and maintain the ability to return to the factory switch all I intend to do is put another wire tap on the AWD wire and go through an aftermarket switch.


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Auto part Executive car


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Auto part Executive car
 

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Great information here!!!
Thanks for sharing all your work and research
 

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I really liked how the Ranger performed in some situations with the rear diff unlocked but AWD enabled so I ordered a switch from OTRATTW and wired it up permanently. I plan on getting another switch to replace the factory AWD switch with another switch that only has two positions.

Originally I wanted to do this for aesthetic reasons, but found earlier a technical reason to do so. This is the only issue I've found at all with powering the diff lock signal while in AWD.

To accurately explain the issue I have to tell you how I tied the switch into the system. Basically I put a crimp on wire tap on the wire feeding the rear diff unlock wire. The Polaris system operates by sending a 12V signal to the VCM. The VCM has some safeguards that govern when the diff can be locked in and then a module at the rear axle pulses the signal to either pull the solenoid in or out.

I found that if I left the OTRATTW rear diff unlock switch in the unlock position and the factory AWD switch in the unlock position that the new switch will backfeed the electrical system when the ignition key is turned off.

Mine is a unique in doing this however because I picked up power for the switch from my Painless Wiring add on distribution block. Since the ACC hot portion of the Painless block gets power directly from the battery and uses an ACC hot signal from the Ranger to operate it's relay, when both the add on OTRATTW switch and the factory switch are in the diff unlock position the OTRATTW switch feeds the factory switch and back to the ACC hot bus on the Ranger, which in turn holds the ACC hot portion of the Painless block in.

Fortunately there's not much load so there were no issues when I found this out and didn't damage anything. Leaving the AWD switch in any other position other than diff unlock won't cause it to happen. Which is why I want to replace the factory switch a regular two position switch that controls only AWD.

If you were to do this and pick up power from the factory ACC post or the factory ACC hot wire feeding the factory switch, you'd never see it happen.

To retain the factory switch plug and maintain the ability to return to the factory switch all I intend to do is put another wire tap on the AWD wire and go through an aftermarket switch.


View attachment 1809


View attachment 1810
nice setup
 

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why not skip all the headache, leave the factory 4wd/turf mode switch, and just add a switch to engage the front end when you want? the front needs 12v to be turned on. Then the back end remains all factory wired.

use a switch to give the front 12v when you want it engaged, and it won't care what the back is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
why not skip all the headache, leave the factory 4wd/turf mode switch, and just add a switch to engage the front end when you want? the front needs 12v to be turned on. Then the back end remains all factory wired.

use a switch to give the front 12v when you want it engaged, and it won't care what the back is doing.
Possibly a great idea. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" OK team, any possible downside of doing it hanson1999"s way?
 

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Possibly a great idea. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" OK team, any possible downside of doing it hanson1999"s way?
It "might" work that way and that would be far simpler than anything else.......but it also might backfeed through the ECM and (sensing that it's now in AWD) lock the rear diff'.
 
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We discussed putting 12V directly to the AWD system earlier in the thread. You can do it but you don't want to bypass the ECM and speedo as there are safeguards in place that prevent AWD from being engaged when over 8mph on the diesel or 3200 rpm on the gas versions.

As covered earlier, at least with the diesel, the ECM and speedometer controls for the rear axle and AWD system only look for a constant 12V input.

With the rear axle, when the ECM sees 12V, it manipulates the rear axle module and let's it unlock the diff. Remove 12V and the axle locks. All of this is completely independent of the AWD system.

With the AWD system when you provide 12V to the input going to the speedometer it will engage the front coil if conditions above are met. It does this independent of the rear axle.

Manipulating the AWD system or the rear locker is easy with the diesel. It honestly requires the same amount of wire and all factory safeguards are in place, just now you can have an open diff in AWD.

The switch in my picture only runs 12V to the wire that unlocks the rear diff. All you honestly need to operate the AWD system or the rear diff independently is a switch, about 3' of wire and a couple connectors. The wire to enable AWD is right beside the wire that operates the rear diff.

Looking at the gas schematic that I can see, it looks to be similar to the diesel in that the AWD wire and rear diff wire are independent of each other.

The factory switch is what governs both being in at the same time.
 

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Did anything ever come of the Dura kit? I've tinkered on my 2015 570 some but find that when I ground the front it kicks the rear back to locked no matter what. Seems Polaris got wise to the two switch mod. The only thing I know to do now would be to run new wires and take either the front or rear completely out of the ECM loop.
 

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How would you go about adding a rear diff lock override when all wheel drive is engaged. This would help to keep my rear wheels from slipping on slick side slopes. In some situations I would like to have four wheel drive engaged but the rear open. I would like to control it with a dash mounted switch. Is this feasible?
I did mine on the 570 midsize,just cut white/green wire at awd switch and added separate switch so this still goes through your ecu.you have to determine if your awd grounds or powers your system,mine goes to ground.
 

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Nope, not on mine. Doesn't matter which end I ground independently if they're both grounded the rear locks if the front is engaged. There is power to the front plug no matter what position the switch is in so I assume all the ECM control is through the ground circuit. At least setting still here in the garage with the engine off. I hate to cut brand new wires so at this point I need to see if I can find a harness side plug for the front so I can wire it direct.
 

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Nope, not on mine. Doesn't matter which end I ground independently if they're both grounded the rear locks if the front is engaged. There is power to the front plug no matter what position the switch is in so I assume all the ECM control is through the ground circuit. At least setting still here in the garage with the engine off. I hate to cut brand new wires so at this point I need to see if I can find a harness side plug for the front so I can wire it direct.
I have power to my switch all the time also ,I think its for the lights on switch,the white dark green goes to the rear diff,the grey wire goes to the front diff, and the brown wire is the neutral ground ,as I mentioned I just grounded white dark green wire through separate switch. to test it I used a wire with a fused link and could hear the rear diff solenoid click when grounding that wire,i also checked machine out in snow to see if back diff was unlocking in awd mode
 

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Oh yeah, I'm all clear on that. I just wasn't clear on my testing. What I mean is I have power down at the plug to the front diff all the time from the rd-dg wire. in my testing I pulled the female spade connector out of the switch plug and direct grounded them (grey and/or wh-dg) individually and simultaneously. No matter which way I do it the rear kicks out (back to lock) if both front and rear are grounded post ECM.

Since the rear control via ECM is more important, like locking in park, I think my best bet is to take the front out of the control and use a switch for the front. I can either short circuit the ground side or take both leads out of the control by grounding one and switching power with the other. Either way I lose any and all equipment protection and safety features associated with the front system. But since I've had Polaris machines since 1995 I know not to engage while the rear is spinning and I'm all too familiar with the little bit of power braking needed to disengage the front if it happens to stay engaged when shifting from reverse to forward. Heck back in the early days that was SOP with Polaris AWD.

If you happen to know where I could get a harness side front plug connector I'd be forever grateful. They used the 4-pin style even though it doesn't use the two outside pins reserved for the ADC coil.
 

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your system must be different than mine,how do you know that the back diff is staying locked up?are you taking machine out of park when doing tests ?
 

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There has to be a way to do what you want either way (rear diff or front diff control). The important part is to try to keep the factory safeguards in place as they prevent things becoming active if you happen to switch something while a lot of slip is occurring.

If you can, get a factory service manual and go through the wiring schematics. That's how I really found out how mine was working, the rest was just manipulating it.

I would hope Polaris doesn't have two or three different wiring methods for the same machine. I'm sure it's possible though, I recently bought a 2015 Tacoma and have been doing this sort of stuff with it. I have an ABS disable switch on mine and looking at how Toyota does things there's definitely a few different ways to do it depending on the model you have!

Here's a post in the other forum with a lot of discussion on this subject.

http://www.prcforum.com/forum/17-ranger-discussions/60060-polaris-awd-washout-discussion.html
 

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That's a nice long thread. Lots of neat ideas there.

I do have a manual on order and had my dealer print out a diagram for me. The darn thing is so small that I need glasses and magnifying glass to see it. I hope the book has a bigger foldout or something. More importantly I hope the book talks about the logic. It looks like all wires go to the ECM which would mean everything is programmed. We talk about wires going from the switch to the front or rear but they really go from the switch to the ECM and then to the front or rear. If they programmed away the ability to do what so many here have done before I don't have many options left. I haven't been able to find a thread on this subject where one of the participates had a model like mine (2015 570 full size) to see what they did. Right now it looks to me like what worked even last year won't work anymore.
 

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your system must be different than mine,how do you know that the back diff is staying locked up?are you taking machine out of park when doing tests ?
At first I would actually back out of the garage and turn to see if it acted locked. Big difference in behavior between locked and open. I also got used to the sound of the solenoid and just rely on that now. Plus there's a certain amount of 'yeah that makes sense' involved in any project. Here the rear sounds locked in park and neutral no matter what. And that makes sense.

When I first got it a couple weeks ago and wanted to see how the systems worked I jacked up the rear and played with the wires and switches going forward and backwards in the garage. That was fun. I think I got my first mile that way.
 

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when I ground out the white dark green wire I hear the solenoid click putting diff in turf mode,but no click when in park.i wouldn't trust your service manual as mine indicated it was powered through switch,but grounds through switch.i don't know why you would have power to front diff all the time,doesn't make sense
 

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I won't deny that it's counter intuitive to those of who grew up with the hot side of everything being switched and the ground always in place but apperently what was old is new again. Now they run hots to everything and switch the ground side kind of like it was back in the days of 6 volt positive ground systems.

I just finished tapping into the wires to the front with a switch. I cut in about half way through the center tunnel. I switched the rd/dg and grounded the returning bn/wh. The system now works like I wanted. I just have to be careful not to grenade the front diff by engaging it when the back is spinning. Shouldn't be a problem since the whole idea is to be running with AWD on and an open rear.

The only unintended consequence is that the check engine light is on. While that's not too surprising given that I cut into wires that the ECM monitors, it was unexpected and will probably get annoying. I did use bullet connectors for everything so if someone ever comes up with a better mousetrap here I can always go back and change things to how they were.
 
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