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That's a nice long thread. Lots of neat ideas there.

I do have a manual on order and had my dealer print out a diagram for me. The darn thing is so small that I need glasses and magnifying glass to see it. I hope the book has a bigger foldout or something. More importantly I hope the book talks about the logic. It looks like all wires go to the ECM which would mean everything is programmed. We talk about wires going from the switch to the front or rear but they really go from the switch to the ECM and then to the front or rear. If they programmed away the ability to do what so many here have done before I don't have many options left. I haven't been able to find a thread on this subject where one of the participates had a model like mine (2015 570 full size) to see what they did. Right now it looks to me like what worked even last year won't work anymore.

If it's like mine, you'll get an 11x17 folded drawing with really small, hard to trace lines on it and still need a magnifying glass! The schematic will show all the connections but doesn't talk about logic internal to the ECM. Just lines in and out of the box.

You are correct, it would be very easy for Polaris to add an extra bit of logic to the ECM to keep the rear locked when the Hilliard was energized.

I don't know really how to determine that for sure other than looking what you have already seen as I've never seen anything regarding the actual logic in the ECM's. If there are tuners like Power Commander, they may be able to manipulate things or confirm what you're looking at, although I'd probably try for a cheaper workaround...
 

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Okay,, so after all this reading,, I simply want to engage my front diff without needing to go thru the ECU,, can I simply provide 12volts to the front diff plug via a separate switch?? my front diff seems to be very intermittent to engage,, doesnt seem to work when I need it most,, seems to work more in reverse than forward,,, any help appreciated
 

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JohhyBones you might have some damage inside front diff it should engage with in 1/20 of a revolution of spinning rear wheels.
 

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its a brand new Billet from Dale Carter,, whats weird is sometimes I dont get the AWD indicator on my speedo it comes and goes,, I have verified the 12 volts to the connector but got stuck in a hole this weekend and wouldnt go forward,, put it in reverse and worked, tried again in forward no luck engaging and would not engage in reverse this time either,,
 

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I have mine on my '07 Hard wired and it lasted over 250HRS some days being fully engaged the whole entire day. My 2011 failed and I assumed it was the solenoid and it was wired like factory. I replaced the solenoid but found out on that unit the solenoid was fine. What I found was that there was a junction box where the solenoid plugged into. I believe this does all the pulsing and control for the rear solenoid. I replaced that unit, it looks like a switch board coated with see-through silicone. I bought another one to add to my '07 to see if that helps the solenoid last longer. It is the cheaper part to replace. I found the solenoids to be $240 and the boxes were $50, here is the info on the rear controller they call a relay:
I find it really beneficial to run the rear unlocker separate with Tracks for when turning especially in AWD. On grassy surfaces I have pulled my Camoplast Tatou tracks off the bearings in the hubs and skipped the sprockets on the tracks with the tension still super tight due to this excessive resistance. When you are running the longer units (6x6) like I am it also helps in reducing the turning radius and keeping it more consistant irregardless of terrain traction.
If a guy were to run solid power like my '07 is I wouldn't worry about it if you simply have it on for less than 5 mins at a time. It only heats up after an hour plus of running continuously. I was surprised how long it lasted as stated I would run it the opposite way basically powered all day and only occasionally locking it up for deep holes since I wouldn't hardly ever need the rear end locked up with the massive traction of the rear tracks.

Wiring the front separate to me seems to be pointless and simply will complicate matters. If really paranoid purchase the relay above and wire into it, problem solved. Most of the days I run my units they run up to 10HRS a day non-stop. So I'm really surprised how long that solenoid lasted being used and wired "improperly". It just started sticking and not retracting properly when it failed. You could still unscrew it and collapse the plunger by hand to lock up the diff for the rest of the day to be on the safe side with the solenoid does fail as well....
 

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Well seems I found the issue why my front diff would not engage,, after tearing it apart and inspecting I could not find anything wrong internally,, however the disengageing spring seemed very tight , probably stronger than the magnetic field needed to engage the sprague,,I removed the spring reassembled and applied 12 volts to the coil and now have diff lock,,I made a call to Booger and he suggested that in the past they have had to relax the spring some,,I collapsed it a bit and after several times repeating this, finally got to where I can engage the diff with 12v and it dissengages when the 12v is removed , So as of now Im pretty confident that has been the issue all along
 

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A quick follow up to my post back in May (#59) about the check engine light; today I put a little 25cent 22 Ohm Radio Shack resister between the two wires that used to go to my front diff (well actually one still does) to trick the ECM into thinking it still has control and it worked. My check engine light is no longer on.
 

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I don't think it would be very difficult to do. All you would need to do is to add switched 12 volt power to the solenoid. No power is locked, and it unlocks when you add 12 volts. Should be a pretty simple and cheap mod'.
This is exactly what I want to do. I am a newbie here and a new Ranger owner. (Up graded from a 610 Mule).
I just looked at the solenoid on the rear diff and it is rated 12v Pull and 3v Hold. So the ECU pulses 12v to disengage the lock and then maintains 3v to hold it open. Then when the engine is shut off 0v lets it return to closed. So either build a voltage divider and and two switches one momentary to pulse the 12v manually and one to turn on the continuous 3v off the voltage divider. Google simple DC voltage divider for the circuit. I’m go into give it a try.
Thanks for the info. I know this is an older post so I hope someone sees this.
 
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