PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
I've heard a few breaking but not many. I didn't realize until another member posted a picture of his broken that they were just made of pipe. I assumed that they were solid steel rod. I would almost be tempted to make a replacement sway bar out of solid steel rod. A guy could use the factory one as a template. One things for sure, if it was solid you wouldn't have to worry about it breaking again.

Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
22,227 Posts
A few have posted about breaking theirs. Unless you make one you are going to have to get one from the dealer. If you make one out of solid bar it will probably make your suspension real stiff and it will be heavy. Can it be welded?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,463 Posts
I bent mine deeply when I broke a rear U-joint a few weeks ago. I was shocked to learn that it was only thin (not even 1/8") tubing and not solid! I bent it back out fairly straight, cut it in half, inserted a solid rod , and re-welded it back together. It may bend at one of the radius' next time, but it won't bend where I have sleaved. It only added maybe 3 pounds or so and the weight is carried low....so no biggie to me.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
I didn't know they were just pipe either. If you make one out of solid steel bar, make it out of the smallest round bar you can use and still get sway bar bushings.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,116 Posts
Nathan, Chuck posted above that he no longer runs his with the sway bar and it works great.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Can you run without the rear swaybar? YES

BUT

I would not recommend it if you ride in tight trails with many off cambers.

The Ranger is top heavy anyway and without the swaybar I would think you would be asking for more tipsy action.

freddy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Aren't you just asking to flip or roll your Ranger if you remove the rear swaybar?? Unless you are going in a straight line over flat terrain, I would not recommend it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,463 Posts
Just speculation, but I'm guessing it would be dangerous at higher speeds also. I'm guessing that a little too sharp of a turn could cause enough lean to cause a rollover.[xx(]
 

· PRC Sponsor
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
I've run mine without the swaybar from the beginning, and my Dad's broke on the first trip to Tellico on his 2006. It definitely leans a lot without it, but for the type of riding a like, it's perfect.

Chris
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Well, I just broke mine this weekend. We were not doing anything crazy. It broke driver side right where the radius bend starts. I was lucky and stopped by a local offroad shop today, he just happened to have one laying around! $25.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,463 Posts
Mine broke again a few months ago......shortly after posting that I'd fixed it. Obviously welding it does not really work as a long term fix....it will just break somewhere else once the metal has fatigued. I removed mine completely and have been riding without it for about 4 months or more. I don't recommend this if you do alot of road or high speed riding, but it's great in the woods.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Chiefmorton

I've heard a few breaking but not many. I didn't realize until another member posted a picture of his broken that they were just made of pipe. I assumed that they were solid steel rod. I would almost be tempted to make a replacement sway bar out of solid steel rod. A guy could use the factory one as a template. One things for sure, if it was solid you wouldn't have to worry about it breaking again.

Brian
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


Replaced mine wiyh solid bar, no more trouble.

Works great...

Happy rangering...
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top