PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am considering the possibility of relocated the air intake on my 2015 Polaris Ranger 900 XP to the front under the tiny hood. I think a move like that would allow for fresher, cooler air coming into the clutch box and the air filter box. It would have to be routed down into the tunnel and back to the air box and clutch housing.
1. Has anyone done this or even tried it?
2. My thought is one largish air intake filter with a "Y" spliter to the two air hoses.

Appreciate any feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,857 Posts
I'll begin by stating I've never tried what you are considering. Have you had problems with the stock location?

My thoughts, off the top of my head, FWIW:

I'm certain you can make it work but I'm not certain you'll get much return on investment or beneficial results. Possible problems, as I see them are:

1) Although there is probably room to locate the air intake under the hood, it will probably preclude you from ever adding accessories like a accessory fuse box, winch contactor or OEM windshield wiper, etc. I assume it does rain in Tuscon from time to time and probably gets cold there too. An accessory fuse box will be useful if a heater is installed as well.

2) The piping necessary will be pretty long and can't be very large if it is to run through the tunnel. There isn't a lot of extra room in the tunnel. If you use flexible ducting with a wire helix it will add considerable restriction to airflow over that distance so a smooth piping would be best. The piping for the radiator also runs through that tunnel and will may tend to heat the intake air as it travels from under the hood to the intended destinations. Heated intake air isn't the best for engine performance nor for cooling a clutch.

3) I'm not too certain that air picked up under the hood will be any "fresher" or cleaner than air picked up in the OEM location. The area under the hood of my 2015 Ranger 570FS (like the 900 XP) gets dusty even though I don't ride in lots of dust. If you are following others on a dusty trail the dust they kick up will be as likely to get under the hood as it is the stock intake location. The areas to the left and right of the area under the hood are open to the dirt and dust churned up by the front wheels. At high speeds that dirt may not enter under the hood but at lower speeds I think it's a different story.


I think that if I were to be considering air intake relocation it would probably be via some kind of a snorkel system with the intake up on the roof. At least the air would be cool. You might be able to adapt some kind of air filter/air box system from an automotive application and use a large pleated paper element filter which is inexpensive to replace. It may not be the prettiest thing but a round steel air cleaner from an old school V-8 car or heavy duty truck will provide more airflow and more filtration surface than any 900 engine will ever be able to consume and it will be fairly rainproof becasue even under the hood of a car rain makes it's way through the radiator to the top of the engine and that type of air cleaner canister is made to deal with it.

It might be worth inspecting the air intake system on a Humvee, which is designed to cope with all kinds of dirty intake air, if for no other reason than to get ideas.

I think Polaris makes an air intake relocation kit that relocates the intake inside the cab. It may be marketed for snow use. Using it may increase noise in the cab but the air should be as cool and clean as what you breathe in there. Perhaps you could start with that Polaris kit (if it exists) and run the piping up the back wall inside the cab, overhead along the roof and pop out through the roof above the windshield with some kind of cool looking low profile intake scoop that extends from side to side above the windshield. You would still have the original air filter to deal with and any dist kicked up by others you follow but I don't think it would be any worse than what would be picked up under the hood.

Another option might be to run along inside the tunnel and pop up inside the cab under the dash to pick up clean interior air. Of course the problems I mentioned earlier about the tunnel piping would still apply and the addition of a heater would complicate things due to space requirements, but the room under the hood would still be preserved for other accessories.

I don't know if any of these rambling thoughts will be helpful, just tossing them out there to confuse the situation. :chargrined:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The main problem I have with the air intake stock location on the Support by the door is the ducting takes the air to the bottom behind the passenger seat which is right over the header and exhaust. In other words HOT area.
I am trying to get cooler/cleaner air in to the clutch box and the engine filter areas.
My thought is a boat exhaust flexible pipe, it is about three inch diameter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,857 Posts
Maybe a different solution would be to make a heat shield to shield the plumbing from the exhaust or insulate the air plumbing. Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
I am running the snow relocation kit from Polaris. At first I ran the kit as is. Now I wish I had just made my own. I was getting water in the belt housing and air box when trailer so I put the relocation kit in and that fixed that problem, but the kit has you stuff an open cell filter in the ends of the clutch intake and new air intake. I ended up going further and cutting the stock clutch intake all the way back to the elbow and trimmed the air intake for a little more clearance and put SS hardware cloth on both to keep leaves and larger debris out. There is a little more intake and clutch noise in the cab. I know I lost some water crossing, but I do not want to get to seat depth anyway. I have not found that are to be especially hot, and there is enough air flow around the area I think it is fine. I do feel that this helped my belt temps by increased airflow. Every little bit helps.

01 Clutch.jpg

01 Intake.jpg

What I removed from the stock clutch duct:
02 Clutch.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
I moved air intakes inside cab 900XP, stock location picks up lot of dust from front tires. Used PVC pipe for motor intake but noise from was a bit loud until I installed a shorty glass pack, much better. For the clutch I used rectangular gutter down spout to get intake over by passenger side of cab used duct tape keep joints together noise is minimal. I left the belt box discharge stock as I believe header area needs the added air flow to dissipate heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The main problem I have with the air intake stock location on the Support by the door is the ducting takes the air to the bottom behind the passenger seat which is right over the header and exhaust. In other words HOT area.
I am trying to get cooler/cleaner air in to the clutch box and the engine filter areas.
My thought is a boat exhaust flexible pipe, it is about three inch diameter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Southern Arizona has been too wet to get a real dusty ride yet this year but I checked the primary engine air filter I put I at the last oil change about 4 or 5 rides on it now. The filter looked just like the day I put in in. I checked my K&N pre filter and it shows some dirt on the outer veins but nowhere near dirty enough to require washing. I think my change / modification has helped. Also the driver seat is much cooler since I relocated the clutch air intake too. All in all I think those mods were worth the effort and money.
130372
130373
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,268 Posts
Jaybey, the newer 900's have a heat shield that covers that whole area around the exhaust under the seat and on the bottom of that square metal body support, and a separate metal plate in addition that sticks back over the top of the exhaust pipes where they come out of the motor to protect the bed from the heat. They added them on to my '17 model before it left the dealership when I bought it. Those will cure all your heat problems without all that stuff you have crammed in there. Another thing is to make sure the exhaust from the cvt is turned to where it blows over the top of the exhaust and not turned to where it blows downward at an angle. You might check the recalls for your Ranger and see if those heat shields were supposed to be added to it.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top