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I'm sure that those of you with a 900 RZR have noticed how dirty your air filter and intake tube gets. I just finished servicing mine and, after only 55 hours, the intake tube was caked again (I just cleaned it last time it was serviced) and I dumped literally 1/2 to 3/4 cup of dust out of the filter (no exaggeration). Keep in mind that I'm usually the one leading the ride and it's not like I'm bringing up the rear in a pack of 50 machines. It's just an inherent problem of the OEM intake and less than ideal pre-filter. Riding in a downpour or doing a lot of mud-bogging will only compound the issue.

Notice the difference between the new filter and one with only 55 hours. This is also after all of the dust has been knocked off of it by repeatedly slamming it on concrete.


Scott hooked me up with one of the first few prototypes of his new intake upgrade and this thing looks like the ticket to solve this problem. The quality and construction of materials and workmanship is excellent. The one that I installed and shown below is a 2 piece design (uses an elbow with clamps between the filter canister and intake grate), but he has since improved upon that and made it a single, welded aluminum component. I should have some pic's of the new design when I report back with the trail results in a few days.

Installation is pretty straight forward and can be done even by the less mechanically inclined in a couple of hours or less. See the installation instructions below.

Aluma Werks filter canister is a stock replacement for the Polaris 900XP fender air box. This will help eliminate having to service the stock air filter on the back of the motor and lessen the chance of a leak. This system will make air filter service much easier and with a positive seal EVERY TIME. Just tighten the clamps and ride worry free. The air filters are sized to flow more than 3 times the air required by the 900 engine at 8800 RPM. We have seen no power loss and we love the sound.
1 - Remove the driver’s side rear fender.
2 - Remove the gasket from the air box.
3 – Remove the oil vent line from the air box. This will have to be extended and rerouted to a new location of your choice.
4 – Remove the air box and lower metal bracket from the frame. Keep the bolts, they will be used to mount the new canister. Keep the hose clamp, as it will be used to connect the new air piping.


Remove gasket from stock air box for use on new.


Use the gasket removed from the old air box and slip over the new adapeter. Use some light oil or WD40 to make installation easier. Hold the adapeter tight to fender and drill the holes and use the screws to attach the adapter to fender. Note: Silicone can be used to seal the gasket to the fender for a more positive seal to keep out mud slung up by the rear tire. Using the short rubber elbow, attach the cansiter to fender adapter as shown. Use the supplied clamps for this. Install the 6” rubber sleeve and one clamp. Do not tighten any clamps yet. Put the fender back on and hand start a few screws. Use the bolts from the old bracket to bolt the new one in place. Bracket is not shown in this picture.
*Note* I chose to eliminate the cheesey Polaris gasket and completely siliconed mine up.


Install the supplied filter to the end cap of the canister as shown. Outerwears are not supplied for the filter as in the picture. I supply the booties for the fenders. This installation picture was for install with Airaid snorkel kit.
(Note: The fender will be pushed out a bit, this is due to tryhing to tuck the canister in there as much as possible. This will note be noticable and will have no effects on the machine.)


Install the end cap with filter into the canister and install the second 6” clamp. The longer 3” rubber elbow will attach to the end cap and the stock intake hose. Use the supplied 3” short pipe for this. Slip the pipe into the stock air hose and then slide the stock hose clamp over for use later. Slide the pipe into the 3” rubber elbow, then slide the remaining two 3” clamps over the elbow to fasten to the end cap and adapter pipe. Everything should look like the picture. Slide the 6” sleeve back to end of the cap and tighten the clamp. Make sure the cap is in all the way and tighten the clamp. Make sure there is no binding anywhere and tighten all clamps. To service the air filter, loosen the end clamp on the cap and the 3” clamp on the cap. Pull off the 3” elbow and then the cap. Some WD40 will help with the rubber sticking to the aluminum.



I did have to shorten my OEM intake hose by 2", but I think that Scott is tweaking the design to eliminate that step.

I also used the method below to relocate and filter my breather tube. The inside of the breather tube was also caked with dirt......and since there's no factory filter on that, guess where that dirt is going :shock: :x ? So I cleaned the tube (which is a real pain to access the end attached to the oil reservoir) before this step. I went to the local Autozone and bought the parts below. I only needed one clamp, but they came in a pack of two.


Using a 1" hole saw, I cut a hole behind the rear seat on the driver's side and run the vent tube through the hole. Slide a hose clamp on the tube, followed by the breather filter, then tighten. This hole needs to be about 2" further to the left (toward the middle of the machine) than shown in the pic'. My seat hits it, so I'm gonna have to epoxy up that hole and relocate it. Moving it in slightly further will put it in the recessed area of the seat, making it clear fine. For those that go deep, I would use a piece of tubing attached to the intake of the breather (pointed toward the bottom) and run it to a higher location, but the existing setup will work fine for the depths that I plan to operate. 8)


After everything is assembled and you're ready to reinstall the fender, access the last hose clamp through the oil reservoir panel.


Install the Outerwears covers over the prefilter intake and you're done.


I fully anticipate MUCH better filtering and a HUGE improvement to the OEM filter life, but I will update after a few hours of trail testing so I have more to report than just speculation. By the time the PRC rally is over, it will be time for another engine service and I will inspect the filter and provide another update with pic's at that time.
 
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