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Discussion Starter #1
You can check the clutch operation while in neutral correct? Primary closes and belt rides up fine, secondary won't open at all when at any rpm. A load shouldn't be needed? I can push primary in some by hand, but nothing gives when I try to spread secondary. Time to pull it I suppose? Am thinking that swim and shameful walk is still biting me. Thanks all!
 

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Load does affect the secondary but only in the rate of opening and closing, not whether it opens or closes. In neutral there is essentially no load so the secondary should open and close in response to RPM and it's effect on the primary.

So, time to pull the secondary, disassemble it and find out where the problem is. Dirt, corrosion, wear, broken parts are all possibilities which could lead to binding.

One thing I don't understand about your post is how the belt could be riding up the primary if the secondary isn't opening. The belt won't stretch that much and is a finite and definite length. Where is the "slack" (not the best term) coming from to allow the belt to ride up in the primary? Bad bearing in the transmission? Broken connection between transmission and chassis or engine (mounts)? Something has to be giving for the belt to be able to climb the primary sheaves without moving the secondary sheaves apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got the secondary off and something is rattling around on the inside. Cant really see anything on mine (classic) till I get that snap ring off. Saw a you tube video on how you can twist this one and clamp it to get the snap ring off. Got to that point and a tip broke on my small ring pliers. Going to try and get some the appropriate size today.

Hey pyro, It is going up on the primary, but probably not as far as normal. Secondary doesn't budge. My first cvt. I will check for any other play that I hope won't be there. I would hope the belt would slip before it could cause more damage. Havn't pushed it real hard though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Lisle 49200 snap ring pliers were 36 bucks at the twilight zone store.. Came back and ordered them for 16 on ebay. Will be a while for an update on the secondary. Am looking for a good vice and started another thread if anyone has a suggestion. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright, have the bugger in my new vice, snap ring off and nothing budges twisted or not. Going to read the manual again to make sure everything is done right. Any one had experience with the classic driven? On this one, it is fully enclosed on the other side, so I can't see what is going on. PB blaster maybe? Is it going to explode when it breaks loose? Thanks all in advance!
 

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Your on the right track. Soak with favorite penetrating fluid and going to have to drive the splined piece thru. Give the oil time to work and couple times soaking. Maybe giving a few blows with wood block and hammer to speed the soak.
Google is your friend
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I need to find a way to control the helix when I start hitting it. Are they all designed the same way? The only video I found was twisting one sheave to release the force. Going to pb it and put my safety glasses on when I start banging on it. Got to find my c-clamps now. Wish me luck and don't tell the bride I have her hand towel in the vise.:devilish:
 

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What kind of force? I assume you have done this a time or two. Does the spring load up or unload with torque in a vise?
I didn't look super close and then I saw your signature this being a 500 I have never done but one and it was a while back. The spring is also a torque spring that I recall, has tangs on both ends and has positions so make sure what position it is all in. I might be wrong on the spring pressure. I took a quick glance and thought it was a different clutch used on a 13 900.

Todd
 

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It looks like the old style I had on the sleds but Parts fish shows that maybe the spring is just sitting between the helix and the sheave and not pegged. Back In the day I could just press down on the helix with a little twist, undo the snap ring and ease it apart, but was much younger, had more spring twist then compression, either way I doubt it will send it flying.
 

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I'm almost certain it will spring upward. You can make a tool with some backyard engineering. A piece of 1/2" threaded rod through the hole the transmission shaft normally goes in, and a couple pieces of 1/8" steel with some drilled holes for the threaded rod, a couple of washers and nuts and you have a backyard spring compressor good enough to work for one job. It's not like you're doing this for a living. IF you want something better and have a welder making a good one shouldn't be that difficult.

You might try some mild heat with the PB Blaster. A heat gun on high will be about right. Aluminum expands significantly when heated. The expansion will allow the penetrant to get where it needs to be and open clearances to help the parts slide apart.

If you don't have a heat gun HF has one for about $15 (less 20% with a coupon) that works well and should be adequate for the job. I've used this same heat gun to remove paint from plaster wills and it did so with ease with no damage to the walls.
 

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Whit, there is a torsion spring in there. You'll have side load pressure on the splines also. Mark your sheaves before taking it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Let it soak overnight and put more on this AM. Rapped it lightly with a regular hammer quite a bit and rubber mallet broke it loose. Marked it up before I took off the clip and noted the spring tab locations also. Buttons are toast and ramp has grooves from the screws holding buttons on. One screw had lost the head and worked itself out. Thanks all for the input. I'm cursed with being to careful and second guessing, so you all make it easier on me. New ramp and buttons?
 

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Let it soak overnight and put more on this AM. Rapped it lightly with a regular hammer quite a bit and rubber mallet broke it loose. Marked it up before I took off the clip and noted the spring tab locations also. Buttons are toast and ramp has grooves from the screws holding buttons on. One screw had lost the head and worked itself out. Thanks all for the input. I'm cursed with being to careful and second guessing, so you all make it easier on me. New ramp and buttons?
Yes, looks like a new helix and buttons should be all you need. Even if the spring isn't broke, good idea to replace that too while you are at it.
 

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That looks almost exactly like the clutch I mentioned I worked on for the Pioneer.

It looks like the bushing in the second photo is cracked.

Did you take note of which holes the spring was in when you disassembled it? If not maybe your service manual will provide that into.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That looks almost exactly like the clutch I mentioned I worked on for the Pioneer.

It looks like the bushing in the second photo is cracked.

Did you take note of which holes the spring was in when you disassembled it? If not maybe your service manual will provide that into.
Good eye Pyro. I looked at the diagram and it shows the the crack, so I assume it should be there. Also that screw didn't work out it broke off. Glad I have the extractor set I bought for the "broken zerk" that was a roll pin. Thanks for the input fellas!
 

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While she's already apart this far, pull the primary cover, belt and spring. Slide the movable sheave in and check for excessive play on the wieghts and pins. With age and use they tend to wear out. Letting the weights swing out and tear the spider up.

If you want to add a little pep in its step, primary spring 7041132 will give it a little more zip.
 
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