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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to straighten my steering wheel up a little after I put a-arms on.

Ive searched and havent come up w/ an answer yet. My ranger has eps, so I will not be beating on it w/ a hammer. Other than getting a puller, do I have any options? Of am I better off letting a dealer straighten it?

Thanks
 

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I need to straighten my steering wheel up a little after I put a-arms on.

Ive searched and havent come up w/ an answer yet. My ranger has eps, so I will not be beating on it w/ a hammer. Other than getting a puller, do I have any options? Of am I better off letting a dealer straighten it?

Thanks
Everything needs to be centered, so you will have full turning radius both left and right.

I would try the puller first, discontinue using the puller if you notice the steering wheel start to deform.
The steering wheel has an aluminum splined insert in it, some times it doesn't want to let go.

Option 2 (the safest and most time consuming).
Remove tilt shock
Remove lower dash panel
Remove pinch bolt on upper steering shaft, next to eps unit.
Remove steering yolk bolts and yolk.
The steering wheel, yolk and shaft will come out as an assy.
Then you can tap steering shaft out of the steering wheel.
 

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Redvett is right on target! Just did my 900 the way he described. No need to pull the steering wheel. Most Polaris UTV's I have owned I had to center the steering wheel, then adjust each tie rod to get the wheels straight with the proper tow out.
 

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I ended up just eyeballing it as best I could. Every time I tried to measure (string method, etc.) and then drive it around a little, I always came up with a significantly different measurement. Seems to drive fine, but I'll be keeping an eye out for inside or outside wear in case the eyeball method is way off.
 

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ive always eyeballed the toe and have never seen any exccesive wear on anything
 

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1st you have to tie steering wheel straight so it wont move. 2nd measure from center front of vehicle to both inside of wheels, one will be more than the other. Adjust the tie rods until center to both sides are equal. 3rd measure front tire inside with a locking tape measure front and back at hub center line. 4th go back and forth measuring until you get a 1/8" toe out if you drive on hard pavement or 1/8 to 1/4" tighten tie rod links and make sure the tie rod ends are not binding. Done after a test ride.
 

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Your going to have to adjust them after you center the steering wheel and secure it. You then will see by measuring that wheels are not going straight. Check your service manual for more info.
Thats how I did mine...no issues.
 

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Definitely on the floor. I just couldn't get any repeatability in my measurements.
 

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Twisted 10, was your steering wheel off before you decided to install the SATV A arms?

Did the arms come with new extended outer tie rod ends?

I am assuming that the only thing on the steering you removed was the outer tie rod/spindle bolts?
 

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Does not make any difference, you must center the wheel after going lock to lock and dividing by 2. that's center. I will bet the wheel is on center and the lift & person are responsible for the error.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I used the stock tie rod ends. The superatv ones did not look any longer to me. I set it so there doesnt appear to be any toe, I will try to adjust it this weekend. It drives fine but the wheel is way off.

the wheel was not centered and yes i only unhooked tie rods....
 

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I
Does not make any difference, you must center the wheel after going lock to lock and dividing by 2. that's center. I will bet the wheel is on center and the lift & person are responsible for the error.
I'm very aware on how to find center.

The steering wheel may not have been put on "straight" to begin with or the steering not adjusted properly. The steering wheel will index 9 degrees for each tooth moved (the upper steering shaft and steering wheel insert are 40 splined, This allows for proper alignment of the steering wheel), assumeing everything else is correct.
So if you line up the steering wheel ( that may be off center), this could make the rack biased left or right, causing an unequal length adjustment of the outer tie rods.



This may not matter to some but it does to me. I like mine equal and straight.
 

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I used the stock tie rod ends. The superatv ones did not look any longer to me. I set it so there doesnt appear to be any toe, I will try to adjust it this weekend. It drives fine but the wheel is way off.

the wheel was not centered and yes i only unhooked tie rods....
If you can post a couple of pics, I will try and help.

How many threads are engaged into the outer tie rods?
Same or different on each side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you can post a couple of pics, I will try and help.

How many threads are engaged into the outer tie rods?
Same or different on each side?

i will when i get time, im hoping sunday...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you can post a couple of pics, I will try and help.

How many threads are engaged into the outer tie rods?
Same or different on each side?
i got a chance to pull the stock tie rods and put the superatv ones on. They are slightly longer.

Just from eyeballing it in my garage, drivers side threads are about 3/8 out, passanger side has no threads showing. Wheel is straight. I need to drive it but its -5 here....
 
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