I may be misunderstanding what you are saying. A circuit breaker has an 'in' and an 'out', there is no command terminal. Did you mean a relay rather than a CB? If you want everything off the fuse block to be keyed hot, the simplest way to do that is:
1. Run a cable from the + term of your battery to a fuse or circuit breaker
2. Run a cable from the fuse (or CB) to a relay (terminal #30)
3. Run a cable from the relay, (terminal #87) to the input lug on your fuse box
4. Run a smaller wire from the relay (terminal #86) to the "Keyed Hot" terminal on your factory bus bar
5. Run a smaller wire from the relay (terminal #85) to ground (again using the factory bus bar if it wired--center stud)
6. Run an uninterrupted cable from the neg post on your battery directly to the bus bar neg lug
Everywhere I said "cable", 6ga is a good choice -- some folks use 8ga but you are limited to a total draw out of your fuse box of 45 amps (6ga gives you 61amps)
For the wires for steps 4 and 5, I would use 14ga but 16ga or even 18ga would work also.
Instead of using a Bosch type relay, it's a heck of a lot easier to use one of these instead: Amazon.com : PAC PAC-80 80-Amp Relay Battery Isolator : Vehicle Power Inverters : Electronics
For your light bar and other accessories that use a relay;
1. Run a wire from the fuse box to terminal #30 on your relay (match the gauge of the wire to the wire in step 2 below)
2. Connect your power wire (usually red) to terminal #87 of your relay
3. Connect your ground wire (usually black) from your light bar to one of the ground lugs on your fuse box, or to the center lug on your factory terminal bar, or to a chassis ground.
4. Run a smaller (14, 16, or 18ga) from either your fuse box (you can even piggy-back on same terminal in step 1) or to the Keyed Hot terminal on your factory terminal block to position #2 on your switch.
5. Run a smaller (14, 16, or 18ga) from position #3 on your switch to terminal #86 on your relay.
6. Run a smaller (14, 16, or 18ga) from either your fuse box (you can even piggy-back on same terminal in step 3) or to the ground terminal on your factory terminal block to terminal #85 on your relay. If is more convenient, you could also run that wire to ground lug (center) on the factory terminal block or to a chassis ground.
7. Run a jumper between positions #2 and #6 on your switch.
8. Run a jumper between positions #7 and #8 on your switch then from either one of those to a convenient ground.
For accessories that are less than 15 amps, you can skip the relay altogether and run the power from the accessory to position 3 on your switch then another wire from position #2 of the switch directly to the fuse box. Run the ground directly to the fuse box or other convenient ground.
If you are installing multiple switches you can use a single power wire for all of them by running a wire to position #2 on the first switch, then piggy backing off that to position #2 of the second switch, etc. Similarly, you can do the same with your grounds by running a single wire to position #8 and #7 on the first switch, then from #7 to #8 and #7 on the second switch etc. These piggy back terminals make it easier;
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