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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the other day i was towing my ranger through town not doing much over 40mph it was very windy out and was noticing the rear window was taking a beating from the wind while driving. My question to everyone is how do you tow your ranger if i was on the highway trying to run 65-70mph it seems like the rear window would have been blown out of this thing because its flat the damn thing is like a sail in the wind... if it blows out my back window its almost surely going to take the front with it i would think (both front and rear are poly lock and rides.

I love my rangers design with the rear engine but makes it puts absolutely zero tongue weight on when it is loaded facing fowards which makes the trailer get a little squirely at higher speeds.

Guess my question is how do you tow your ranger do you take your windows out and put them in when you get to where your going? do you cover yours while in tow? im thinking about buying a cover for mine but my first thought is to just take out the window and then reinstall them when i arrive at where im going.

Thoughts anyone?
 

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generally, I haul mine in our stock trailer, which is enclosed. but on occasion I do haul them on a flatbed. When hauling a ranger, the best thing you can do is load them backwards. This not only helps the plexi stay in, but if you have a glass windshield you'll be much better off if an oncoming rock hits the plexi and not the glass. Best thing to do also is haul with your doors on. helps make sure the seat stays in and takes some of the stress off of the back/front window.
 

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Without ratting myself out on the extent of my speeding, I'll just say that I've towed mine over 80 mph with no issues, but I use P-clamps and not the lock n ride system. If you're concerned about it blowing out but don't really want to remove it, how about running a ratchet strap around it and the cage to provide some extra security? Just a thought.

If you plan to tow far or a long distance, I'd try backing it on the trailer and see if that solves your tongue weight issue. Might be a little less convenient to put it on that way, but better than towing a squirrely trailer.

I wouldn't tow with a cover on it. The cover flapping in the wind is going to wear some dull spots in your paint and windshield.....and will be much worse after you've been riding and it is dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Without ratting myself out on the extent of my speeding, I'll just say that I've towed mine over 80 mph with no issues, but I use P-clamps and not the lock n ride system. If you're concerned about it blowing out but don't really want to remove it, how about running a ratchet strap around it and the cage to provide some extra security? Just a thought.

If you plan to tow far or a long distance, I'd try backing it on the trailer and see if that solves your tongue weight issue. Might be a little less convenient to put it on that way, but better than towing a squirrely trailer.

I wouldn't tow with a cover on it. The cover flapping in the wind is going to wear some dull spots in your paint and windshield.....and will be much worse after you've been riding and it is dirty.
I tow it in reverse only right now with that engine in the rear i cant get away with it being forwards. the trailer gets very little tongue weight without anything on it so it gets a little squirely when empty. I may look into adding some weight to the trailer so i can get some weight on it when i am empty so i can tow it faster.i am planning on towing it to silver lake which is about 2 hours from me and and thinking about building a plywood setup to cover the rear window. I do have concerns with it still coming through the side doors and blowing out my front windshield being that it is not designed to handle the wind from that direction.
 

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What about putting an air dam on the front of the trailer. Seems like it would help knock some wind off the ranger, keep any rocks from getting thrown at ranger, and add some weight to the front of the trailer. It would possibly be less drag too than a Ranger with front and rear glass. I've seen everything from store bought, aluminum, plywood, even the air dam off the top of an 18 wheeler bolted on a trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
problem with that is it would need to be so damn tall since the back window is a few feet off the ground and goes up to around 6 ft the front air damn would need to be 5 ft tall.

I was thinking alot the same lines in the sense of laying a piece of plywood or something in the back bad putting it up against the tail gate and leaning it onto the back bar on the roof so that the air would flow over that and just rig together a tie system to keep the wood from flying out and put something on the other end so that it doesnt beat up my roof
 

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Sounds like your trailer isn't big enough. I've never towed my crew backwards but my trailer allows me to pull my ranger forward enough to get the proper tongue weight. That being said, one of the benefits of the new machines is the ease at adding and removing accessories. I'd suggest just pulling the front and rear windshields if you have the options. Windows are made to stand up to high speeds going forward not backward.
 

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I was about to tell Clayton that the rear wind shield goes in from the outside in, so loaded in backwards , the wind would hold it in. But the front windshield goes in from the outside in also. So the wind presser would hold that in too. But without doors allow air into the cab to push the opposing shield out. I'm trailing mine Sunday 3 hours away and I'm still not sure whats the best way. I think POS has it though , back it on, doors on(suicide front opening) will be facing the backwards. My sport roof has three screws I think, but I'll still put a strap around it to be safe. And with the doors on hope my windshield doesn't blow out.
 

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I was about to tell Clayton that the rear wind shield goes in from the outside in, so loaded in backwards , the wind would hold it in. But the front windshield goes in from the outside in also. So the wind presser would hold that in too. But without doors allow air into the cab to push the opposing shield out. I'm trailing mine Sunday 3 hours away and I'm still not sure whats the best way. I think POS has it though , back it on, doors on(suicide front opening) will be facing the backwards. My sport roof has three screws I think, but I'll still put a strap around it to be safe. And with the doors on hope my windshield doesn't blow out.
Might i ask where are ya going?
 

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Heading up to Greenville Dennis. Lower Wilson Lake, fish the lake some, fish Wilson stream and some other streams. I emailed the trail master up there, he said the only trail that was open was going up to the B-52 crash site. The others aren't open until June 1st. But of course in Greenville you can ride all the roads into town and out with no issues. Gonna head up to Ellsworth and unload in June to ride the Sunrise trail, stay in Machias , a working trip, I can drop off an order, ride for two days and come back. Our summers are short...enjoy them now the good weather is here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What I've noticed from this thread is there's no perfect way to tow a rear engine utv haha..... I guess I'm just gonna take the windows out during tow that takes away all the possibility of them getting blown out and reduces the sail effect with the end being able to flow through.
 

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What I've noticed from this thread is there's no perfect way to tow a rear engine utv haha......
Having a trailer long enough is key. If your trailer is barely long enough for the machine and the axle is near the center, then you're gonna have issues. You'll see this subject come up repeatedly on here, but way too many folks buy the smallest trailer they can get away with and usually end up wishing that they had gotten one a little bit larger. If you think you need a 8' length, get a 10'. If you think a 12' will work, get a 14'.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes i have the old ass cooker no glass it's polly.
Its a sweet ass cooker though wish I had a cab like that for the Michigan winters...
My trailer with it loaded front ways is about a foot away from putting good weight on the tongue I think km going to cut the front rail open where the tires are and weld a couple extensions so the front tires will actually sit about 6-10" in front of the front rail instead of using it as a bump stop and sitting behind it.
 
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