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Discussion Starter #1
TPS Adjustment procedure

Short Version.....adjusting the idle voltage
(1) Find the yellow wire leading to the TPS and carefully pierce the insullation with the positive lead of your multimeter (make sure that you seal that bare spot when finished). If you want to do it "right" and not pierce the wire insullation, you can buy the Polaris TPS adjustment harness (Polaris part # 2201519-A), which simply "T's" into the existing harness plug.
(2) Connect the negative lead of your meter to a good ground on the Ranger (the engine will work.....no need to go all the way to the battery).
(3) Set your multimeter to the lowest setting that you have above .660 volts to get the most accurate reading (many have a 2 volt setting and that will work great).
(4) Turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should be seeing .660 volts +/- .010 volts for your '08 Crew (see the important parts sticky for info' on other year models http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=35 ). If the voltage is outside of that range, turn the idle voltage adjustment screw on the left front of the throttle body (right above the throttle cable) until you have the desired voltage.

Although the screw is designed to require a special tool (Polaris part # PU-47315), it can be done with needle nose pliers. You can buy a cheaper version than the Polaris tool here http://www.kmsperformance.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=13
(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment.

Long Version.....adjusting the base voltage
Typically this would only be done if the base voltage screw on the TPS has been tampered with, the TPS has been replaced, or you have reason to believe this step needs to be done (or if you're at the end of your rope and have ruled out everything else).
(1) Remove throttle cable cover on the side of the throttle body and then disconnect the throttle cable. Be careful to not drop the brass barrel on the end of the cable. That part cannot be bought separately from the T/B if you lose it (don't ask how I know :oops: ).
(2) Back off the idle set screw until it no longer makes contact with the throttle cable cam. This should allow the butterfly to close completely.
(3) Clean the butterfly inside the T/B with carb cleaner and make sure that it closes completely (that's important for accurate readings).
(4) Check the operation range of the TPS. Using the same probe connections as above, change your meter to the lowest setting that you have above 3.6 volts (this will be 12 volts on most meters). Keep in mind this is a very sensitive sensor and very slight movements will produce large changes. It should go smoothly from 0 volts closed to 3.6 volts at WOT (wide open throttle). It should do so very smoothly, without any gaps, peaks, or valleys. If it has an abrupt jump or drop in voltage within a very small movement area, the sensor may be bad and needs to be replaced.
(5) To set the base voltage, varify that the butterfly is completely closed, loosen the torx screw on the TPS

and rotate the sensor until you reach .528 volts. Tighten the screw down and varify the voltage again, making sure that the butterfly is completely closed for that reading. This is a difficult step because the sensor wants to move as you tighten down the set screw.
(6) Reinstall the throttle cable and cover, then adjust the idle voltage to .660 volts as described above in the "short version".

Doing the adjustments are typically easier if you have a second person to hold the meter probes........unless you're luck enough to have the type of probe that can hold itself in place while piercing the wire insullation.
 

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Ive seen somewhere where there was the thought that adjusting the TPS reduced the exhaust heat and therefore reduced the heat under the seat.......and Ive seen where a few of these adjustments didnt report any change. I have a 2013 crew and Im trying to determine if I should even try to adjust the TPS before trying something else. I think if the TPS adjustment isnt feasible then the next most logical thing would be to jet coat the header. For those that have jet coated the header do you also coat the muffler? Thanks for any help-
 

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Since I inadvertently removed the TPS thinkin it was the MAP:stupid: I must now do the long version.

Jerry your step "(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment." is a little confusing to me, OK so it doesn't take to much. From what your saying I should cover the outside with sealant or nail polish? the polish might work but I don't see the sealant doing much good. Should I or could I remove the screw and put some Loctite on it just before I set? I believe you got 20min cure time.
 

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2013 Ranger 800 EPS hot seat issues. Engine seems to be running lean White spark plugs. Dealer says all in specs. would like to know if TPS adjustment would enrich fuel to engine your thoughts
 

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2013 Ranger 800 EPS hot seat issues. Engine seems to be running lean White spark plugs. Dealer says all in specs. would like to know if TPS adjustment would enrich fuel to engine your thoughts
It did on mine. My ranger was still fairly new at the time and my dealer wound up doing it... per polaris tech's instructions. Had to increase the voltage past the factory specs.

I'd take a reading at idle ( with ranger off), so you'll know where it's set at now, and go from there. Just back out the adjustment screw and turn the tps so the voltage goes up.
 

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Do you know how much voltage was adjusted above factory specs?
Maybe i could contact your dealer there in Arkansas. Where is Milo.
Been in Alaska for 36 years, born & raised in Texarkana. Still a Razorback fan. GO HOGS!
 

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Mine's a 2010 and I think the voltage is completely different. The dealer is " The Outdoor Store" in Monticello AR, but I've been told when it was mentioned to them one time, by someone that knew they had done it for me, they weren't real sure what he was talking about. So with that in mind, I don't know if they'd be helpful are not. They're nice guys, it'd just be a phone call.
 

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Can someone elaborate on this more with the 2012 models,,Manual says NEVER adjust the screw or replace the throttle body is necessary, ,I'm having TPS issues and have repaired the harness I have the 5 volts going to the TPS and I have ground,,but my voltage signal out at closed throttle is on .106 ,, I can't seem to get it higher and am wondering if I should adjust the idle screw as stated above?? PS, I have replaced the TPS thinking it was the issue with no change,,PLEASE HELP and Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unfortunately I can't help with this. I think the '12 models have a "learn" feature on them and I'm not familiar with it.
 

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Thanks Jerry,,Hopefully someone will have some insight,,
 

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Can someone elaborate on this more with the 2012 models,,Manual says NEVER adjust the screw or replace the throttle body is necessary, ,I'm having TPS issues and have repaired the harness I have the 5 volts going to the TPS and I have ground,,but my voltage signal out at closed throttle is on .106 ,, I can't seem to get it higher and am wondering if I should adjust the idle screw as stated above?? PS, I have replaced the TPS thinking it was the issue with no change,,PLEASE HELP and Thank you
JB, the 2012 TPS has to be within a voltage range( see manual for voltage range) in order to sync with the ECU . The D-screw controls the airflow and for emission standards they don't want you messing with that and having it anything but LEAN, which is ridiculous. See what the TPS reading is as a base reading and turn that D-screw. Counterclockwise will richen it up and clockwise will lean it out. I don't recall you saying it was running bad/so-so or decent or how the idle was (1100 +/-100 is normal) so I guess you need to experiment, but always keep your base written down so you have something to refer back to.And don't round the D-screw off with the needle nose. KMS makes a tool to adjust the D-screw..
 

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Jungleman, thanks for the input,,it's stumbling bad from idle too mid pedal and the exhaust gets to glowing red, I've back probed the voltage according to the manual which calls for .700 +- .05, however I'm only getting .106 even with changing tps,,cannot find a short, wires are good and I have 5 volts input and ground with only the .106 as input signal to the ecu,,if I adjust the screw the question is should I see the voltage raise on my meter as I adjust it,, my idle tends to be just over 1100,,but will bog or cutoff as I apply throttle till about half pedal, then will rev. Thank you
 

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Jungleman, thanks for the input,,it's stumbling bad from idle too mid pedal and the exhaust gets to glowing red, I've back probed the voltage according to the manual which calls for .700 +- .05, however I'm only getting .106 even with changing tps,,cannot find a short, wires are good and I have 5 volts input and ground with only the .106 as input signal to the ecu,,if I adjust the screw the question is should I see the voltage raise on my meter as I adjust it,, my idle tends to be just over 1100,,but will bog or cutoff as I apply throttle till about half pedal, then will rev. Thank you
Ok JB, are you sure that the meter is correct ? Are you sure you are probing the right wire ? Are you absolutely sure that the throttle plate is closed ALL THE WAY when you set the base setting. Because.........you are running REALLY lean (HOT) and a .106 readout is REALLY rich. To make the number (voltage) go UP towards ,700ish, you would have to go CLOCKWISE with the D-screw, which will only make it MORE LEANER (HOTTER). the plate has to be at complete closure for an accurate starting point for the TPS and ECU to sync. I would yank the throttle body out and physically check it.Commander Jerry has said that sometimes some light filing on the plate is necessary to get it so NO LIGHT shows around the plate and allows complete closure.

If all that is good then it is time to spin the wheel of fortune (D-Screw) little by little and see what happens.......If it lean now, which it appears, go counter-clockwise......to start

Here's the bottom line JB, if you truly have that .106 voltage reading, after everything else is correct(throttle plate etc.), IT SHOULD NOT EVEN START.......
 

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Yes Jungle, meter is correct,, so the larger the number the leaner it gets,,someone told me that the glowing red exhaust is a rich condition not burning all the fuel?? Any way I will check the butterfly to make sure,, however idle has not been an issue,,sometimes a hard start after warmed up, but I'm hesitant to adjust the screw, ,my screw has a slot for screw driver in it, I just don't understand how the voltage will climb that much, even turning the tps in its slots only gets me to a out .520,,
 

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JB............" I'm hesitant to adjust the screw" What have you got to lose ? It is already running like crap............All you are doing is adjusting the amount of air the TB is taking in. .Ignore the reading ! FREE YOURSELF ! ok....what color are your spark plugs ?
 

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Well,JM,, gonna give it a shot today! I'll post my results, wish me luck!
 

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Well,JM,, gonna give it a shot today! I'll post my results, wish me luck!
You GO JB.........Check that spark plug color......White=lean=bad then go counterclockwise to richer= tan=good----- GOOD LUCK!
 

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Well the plugs didn't look too bad , a light tan,,but the throttle body definitely had light showing thru it, so I broke the lock nut loose after cleaning it real good and backed off the screw to allow the butterfly close all the way, which it did, I ran the screw back in till it just opened and back it off to no light,, getting ready to reinstall and start checking voltage ,, I'll keep you posted!
 

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Ok,, so on going back to the manual there is no "base" voltage just says that proper adjustment should be at .700 +- .050,, so, does anyone have a clue what this might be?
 

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Ok,, so on going back to the manual there is no "base" voltage just says that proper adjustment should be at .700 +- .050,, so, does anyone have a clue what this might be?
JB, if you have put on a new TPS and used a different ECM and all your wires are good and you still have erroneous TPS reading, it has to be either a BAD meter or a BAD TPS test harness. And yours wouldn't be the first test harness that was bad. Have you tried back probing the harness with the multimeter red and grounding the black on the engine ? I would set the TPS up to where it was idling before.......... and then adjust the D-screw....and forget the voltage reading for now....go on idle/ engine sound /and RPM climb as you rev it.
 
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