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Just an update Kris. Put the new TPS on and just kept going back and forth adjusting idle speed with the "D" screw and volts with the TPS. Got it to .665 (because .660 doesn't seem to exist) and idle at 1050. No check engine light and the machine runs great. Thanks again Kris and this forum. I hope you guys know how much you're appreciated.
Yeah, Rock, the guy that uses old diesel truck oil in his Rock'n Ranger reminds us all the time .......LOL...... Seriously, good job Larry. hanging in on a TPS snafu shows much courage..!
 

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Great write up! question are the voltages you have posted good for a 2010 ranger 800 xp ?
 

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Hello all, first time poster, I currently have a late 2010 Ranger 500 efi midsize in my shop with a host of issues including a buggered with idle air screw. Can anyone, for the love all that is holy, tell me what the base TPS setting are for this model? I have searched high and low, called multiple dealers, shops, and polaris customer service(hoping for an engineer) and no one can tell me voltage or at least throttle plate opening measurment. Someone, please....I refuse to replace a functioning throttle body bc I cant find a spec.
 

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TGM, specfic 500 info is scarce as hens teeth around here. Here is a ten dollar downloadable service manual for your rig which you can put on a thumb drive and then take to KINKO'S and print and bind for around $35.00... if the 'D' screw is screwed, what are you gonna do ? 2010 Polaris Ranger 4X4 500 EFI Service Manual PDF Download
 

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TGM, specfic 500 info is scarce as hens teeth around here. Here is a ten dollar downloadable service manual for your rig which you can put on a thumb drive and then take to KINKO'S and print and bind for around $35.00... if the 'D' screw is screwed, what are you gonna do ?
I have the FSM, it lists idle voltage and has a warning about messing with the screw, thats it. Also unlike the 700 that uses the d screw, this one is slotted and on the bottom side of the TB. I know yall love your machines but as a tech they can be very frustrating to work on!



The one Im dealing with looks like this.

*wont let me post pic or link*
 

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I have the FSM, it lists idle voltage and has a warning about messing with the screw, thats it. Also unlike the 700 that uses the d screw, this one is slotted and on the bottom side of the TB. I know yall love your machines but as a tech they can be very frustrating to work on!
 

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I need help with my 2007 Ranger 700 XP. Runs great for first mile or so, then as it warms up begins to miss fire. I can hear it thru the exhaust first then progresses to a dead miss. Someone please help. I have replaced fuel pump.
 

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I need help with my 2007 Ranger 700 XP. Runs great for first mile or so, then as it warms up begins to miss fire. I can hear it thru the exhaust first then progresses to a dead miss. Someone please help. I have replaced fuel pump.
I have the same machine. Can you confirm you have replaced the TBAP harness with the OTB replacement?
 

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Jerry,
Good write-up, but can you edit this and add the year model that this is relevant to? It seems that this applies to models prior to 2010, but I am not sure.

Thanks
 

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Jerry,
Good write-up, but can you edit this and add the year model that this is relevant to? It seems that this applies to models prior to 2010, but I am not sure.

Thanks
I think Jerry has moved on. He hasn't posted here in a couple of years.
 

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To the guys that have done this, do you find it very finicky?

I was at my wits end with the high idle on my machine, so I decided to just reset everything and go from there. So I screw the idle screw all the way out and test my base voltage - .56 something. Get that set back down to .528, then start tightening the screw and get it set to .710, which is the setting for my machine, although I don't have it in the intake boots exactly where it needs to be - didnt think it mattered. Put everything back together, tightened it up, and it seems to idle about where it should, maybe a little low, but everything is good....

So then today I go to start it up and I cant get it to idle at all. I probe the TPS again with the tester and its at .73 something. So I back it all the way back out and the base voltage isnt .528 anymore. I can't remember what it was, but was off by .2 or .3. So I get it set back to .528, then back to the idle screw and got it set back to .710, although if I rotate the throttle body a little, I can get the voltage to change..so I made sure I got it to .710 while everything was set about where it needed to be... seemed to idle fine then. There's no tach on my machine so I don't know exactly what it was at, but just going off of how it sounds.

Just curious why yesterday's readings would be so different than today?
 

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To the guys that have done this, do you find it very finicky?

I was at my wits end with the high idle on my machine, so I decided to just reset everything and go from there. So I screw the idle screw all the way out and test my base voltage - .56 something. Get that set back down to .528, then start tightening the screw and get it set to .710, which is the setting for my machine, although I don't have it in the intake boots exactly where it needs to be - didnt think it mattered. Put everything back together, tightened it up, and it seems to idle about where it should, maybe a little low, but everything is good....

So then today I go to start it up and I cant get it to idle at all. I probe the TPS again with the tester and its at .73 something. So I back it all the way back out and the base voltage isnt .528 anymore. I can't remember what it was, but was off by .2 or .3. So I get it set back to .528, then back to the idle screw and got it set back to .710, although if I rotate the throttle body a little, I can get the voltage to change..so I made sure I got it to .710 while everything was set about where it needed to be... seemed to idle fine then. There's no tach on my machine so I don't know exactly what it was at, but just going off of how it sounds.

Just curious why yesterday's readings would be so different than today?
CFK

I am by no means an expert but did you lock down the screw after the final setting. Earlier this year I experienced a shift in the setting with the D Screw and readjusted but focused on idle RPM. Jungleman and I suspected that the D Screw moved over time (2 plus years). Suggesting that you ensure that you secure the setting by using appropriate material. Recommend searching the best method to secure it via a search. I cleaned the area with alcohol then used a RTV Adhesive to secure and it has been successful so far.

Hope this helps!

Craig
 

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CFK

I am by no means an expert but did you lock down the screw after the final setting. Earlier this year I experienced a shift in the setting with the D Screw and readjusted but focused on idle RPM. Jungleman and I suspected that the D Screw moved over time (2 plus years). Suggesting that you ensure that you secure the setting by using appropriate material. Recommend searching the best method to secure it via a search. I cleaned the area with alcohol then used a RTV Adhesive to secure and it has been successful so far.

Hope this helps!

Craig
I ended up getting a new (used) throttle body off ebay, put it on and it idled great, just high again. Had me scratching my head.

Friend came over that used to be a tech and did some checking..turns out the idle went all erratic when the TBAP wires were messed with. Took the wire loom off to look at them and they were frayed and worn. I "checked" the TBAP a while ago by pulling on the wires in the back of the plug to make sure they were all tight, and when they were, I assumed that wasnt the problem.

Got them spliced in with new wires and it runs like a top now.
 

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I ended up getting a new (used) throttle body off ebay, put it on and it idled great, just high again. Had me scratching my head.

Friend came over that used to be a tech and did some checking..turns out the idle went all erratic when the TBAP wires were messed with. Took the wire loom off to look at them and they were frayed and worn. I "checked" the TBAP a while ago by pulling on the wires in the back of the plug to make sure they were all tight, and when they were, I assumed that wasnt the problem.

Got them spliced in with new wires and it runs like a top now.
CFK that is good to hear. If you didn't get the new Only The Best replacement TBAP harness I recommend that you plan to replace eventually as a friend of mine spliced in a new Polaris replacement and it lasted only a couple of years then same problem.
 

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Does anyone know the base setting for the TPS on a 2012 Ranger 800? I know the manual says .46 for digital wrench which is the number I'd use since I'm back probing. But of course my "throttle body stop screw" was turned. I need to know what to the tps to and adjust the screw to .46. I can find it for every thing besides what I need it for.
 

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One thing that isn't mentioned much:
When setting these voltages, first make sure the voltage on the red pin is 5.000 volts. Since the TPS is a resistance device, you need to have 5V going in to get the right .528 and .660 (or .710 or .735) back out.
 
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