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Alright guys, first off, I own and operate an independent repair shop and have worked on several rangers. I have found over the years in the arena of polaris, the enthusiasts, such as many members here, have more expertise than alot of so called dealer techs that I would consider parts changers. So I want to post the same question I have asked several techs with no solid answer.

Does anyone know on the newer style of throttle bodies with an IAC (idle air control) what the wide open TPS voltage should be? My concern is that the ECM voltage to the TPS is 3.3, which is not a spec anywhere in the OE service manual. I know .700 is the idle setting with a 5v source via the special harness, but .460 is the digital wrench answer, which leads me to believe a multimeter would read 0.460 as well in lieu of 3.3v I have as supply straight from the ECM.

The issue I am chasing was the machine would be stupid rich at idle, so much so the exhaust would burn your eyes. Other than that it ran great with no codes at all. Upon checking TPS voltage with my multimeter it was .450 right out of the gate, but clearly the IAC was opened slightly, you can really hear it with no air filter in the box. It seems to open up around this TPS voltage.

I did attempt to adjust the idle stop (I know this is taboo) because with the TPS set higher it smoothed out nicely, but idled at 1600RPM's. I really suspect I have an ECM problem, but just realized that's a dealer only repair as the new one has to be flashed.

I'd love to hear back from some of the avid tuners on here, i am sure I'm not the only one that has questioned these specs that seem so elusive.

Paul
 

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I have very little experience with the TPS on the newer stuff (because the newer stuff has been much better about tps problems), but as I recall shouldn't your supply voltage to your TPS be 5 volts? if it is, and you don't have it, then any reading you get off of the tps signal wire won't be accurate... Personally I've seen every one of our 2011/2012 800s (3) chafe the tps wires near where they enter the main harness. a partially broken or slightly grounding tps wire will really give you screwy readings and will run goofy too. Seen this happen most of the time without a check engine light. for whatever reason the old rangers were much better at self diagnosing then the newer ones. I'd have the machine running while I moved the harness where the tps t-map and iac all come together. you might be able to get it to run different just by moving the harness. regardlesss,I think I'd vigorously check the tps/tmap/iac harnesses and the main harness till I found something.... wires chaffing against the splastic split loom inside the harness from vibration is VERY common.

I don't know what the tps would read wide open, never known that to be a good or accurate measurement for adjustment. I'd leave the tps alone until you know you have a good supply voltage going in, and a good signal voltage making it back to the ECM.

Never seen an ECM fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yup...I had found several chaffed wires but nothing cut. I agree, that's an extremely common issue on these newer rangers. I would really like to hear back from some of the tuners on here. Has anyone had their TPS set with digital wrench and then checked it with a multimeter? I have a theory that perhaps the 3.3v ECM suppy voltage is correct, that is why the .460 digital wrench is lower than the specified .700 with the special harness and battery supplied 5v.

As it sits now I brought my baseline voltage (from closed butterfly) up 0.050v, and have the multimeter reading TPS idle at 0.390, which makes for a nice start, smooth idle even though it still smells rich at idle. My wide open TPS voltage is 2.472

I was experimenting with leaner settings less than .390 but it was obviously too lean and got alot of popping back through the intake.

Surely someone on here has been down this road since this style of throttle body has been in use since 2011?

Paul
 

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I came up with the same reading while back probing with a meter, ,I do have 5 volts supply, I cannot get to the .700 as required in the manual ,but I suspect it's because I'm not using the special harness adapter with the 9 volt battery either,,
 

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Im running a 2011 800 xp and I read about the various harness problems that are an item on this model. Is there a preventive action I could take now? I need pictures to show where the "too tight" area is located. Anyone seen a service alert that might tell me what to do?
 

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Im running a 2011 800 xp and I read about the various harness problems that are an item on this model. Is there a preventive action I could take now? I need pictures to show where the "too tight" area is located. Anyone seen a service alert that might tell me what to do?
Replacing them before they go bad ,if they aren't already bad, is the only preventative action I can think of to avoid the inevitable..For where to look, see POS POLARIS's post above.
 

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The description of "stupid rich at idle" could be a TBAP issue (dirty sensor or chaffed wires). Polaris' EFI system automatically defaults to a rich setting if a TBAP issue is detected.

Not sure what the TPS spec' is on the newer EFI ('11 and up 800 engine) system, but it used to be 3.6 volts at WOT on the 700 engine.

Knowing all of the potential wire issues on the '11 model, I agree with Adam on checking all of the wires thoroughly. If you haven't already, you might also want to clean the IAC.
 

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Did you ever figure this out I'm having the same problem.
 
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