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trailer tie down question

22325 Views 46 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  revrnd
I have been securing mine with two straps from the back hitch to the sides of trailer and two straps from up front near the upper radiator to the front corners of trailer. this works but you have to get the straps really tight which pulls the suspension down pretty good, especially the front. this seems like it would have to be hard on the machine. I want to try tying down like the picture, from the bottom of the machine. one strap in front of rears wheel pulling forward and one behind front wheel pulling back, and repeat on the other side. but I am not sure what to tie to on the underside? are the crossmembers strong enough? or do you have to try and hook to the more solid part on the front and back? anybody have any suggestions on tie down points?

thanks!! Chris


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As in the link, wheel bonnets is the way to go.
^^^ +1 Ditto. I switched to tire bonnets. Mine take a bit longer to put on but I think I end up with a better setup.
On my trailer I have heavy duty rated D ring tie downs. I pull my Ranger on my trailer and run ( good ) tie down strap over my front driver tire and do the same on my rear pass tire. The D rings are in front and behind these tires just a little shorter apart that the diameter of the tire. Works great
I usually pull the Ranger all the way up to the front of the trailer, run a 2" strap from the front of the trailer, through the "hip handles" in the cab, and back to the front of the trailer on the other side. Works well for me.
My Aluma UT 10 trailer has a single, flush mounted, in floor clevis in the middle of the floorboard just aft of the storage box. It also has 4 welded tie down loops, 2 on each side, fore and aft.

I drive the 1750# Ranger EV LSV on, set the parking brake and put the drive selector in neutral. I then attach the winch to the clevis and tighten down so the front suspension compresses just a bit. I then use 2 ratcheting tie down straps with one end hooked on the center clevis, then wrapped around the front bumper and terminating at one of the front side welded tie down loop and tightened down. For the rear I use 2 long bungee straps cross linked to the rear frame uprights and the rear side tie down loops.

This causes the front to be "nailed" down but allows the rear free to absorb and relieve tension from turns, tilting, buffeting and cross wind but still be relatively restrained by the taut bungees.
Becareful using the winch when you pull up against the front rail. My wireless sending unit quit working and there I was
trying to get the tension off to unhook. Luckily, I had the hard wire control with me which was plug n play and that got me out the bind.
if I'm going a short distance hauling a couple rangers I throw one strap over the floor tighten it down snug and set the brake good.

if I'm going a long distance I'll put 2 straps on each machine, go though one A arm (lower) under the frame, back though the other a arm and back to the trailer. on thefront you can also loop though the round tubes on either side of the grille. the back I've also done the A-arm thing, but throwing it over the ball in the reciever hitch works well too. (or you could put a clevis there?)

Motorcycle straps aren't quite good enough for holding these things down, some of them all decked out weigh almost as much as a small care these days. use a good heavy strap!
I wouldn't tie my UTV down that way, X cross is not the strongest way to tie it down. Front and rear tied down from somewhere on the frame at the front and around the hitch area on the rear. I would angle my tie downs to the outside of the front and rear of the trailer somewhat, but when you use the sides of the trailer you loose a lot of strength in holding power. If I was concerned about side motion I would add two more tie downs for the sides to stabilize the load.

Using the winch as a tie down is strongly cautioned against in the winch manuals. It may have worked in the past, but only has to fail once to prove the Caution to be correct.
I use the rear receiver safety holes for straps angling back to D Rings welded on either side of my 6x10 single axle landscape trailer.
The front straps go from either side of grillguard /bumper openings to either side, angling forward to D rings .Total 4 straps for extra caution.
These are 2" heavy duty nylon rachet straps . The rated break strength exceeds the weight of the Ranger by several multiples, static load is not what you get when things are moving. Kinectic load is, and that is huge. Weight x velocity.
Dont use your winch to tie down 1st hemi use to till it riped the guts out of his winch
I have used the FASTRAP tie down system for some 10 years now and just love it, it is so easy to use. I haul on highways and logging roads and my bike never moves.

Fastrap Tie-down Kit - 86900, Ramps & Tie Downs at Sportsman's Guide
I got tired of breaking straps and welded a 1500# boat winch on a pedestal on the a form tongue of my trailer just in front of the front bumper tow hook. takes about 5 seconds to hook up and tighten.
I have a 5x12 trailer with a bifold ramp and ten inch sides. It takes me longer to raise and lower the ramp than to "tie down" the 6x6. I spray noxious weeds for the county and am constantly moving to new areas and got tired of straps so I welded a two inch wide flat loop to the rear of the trailer bed and then got a 42" x 2" piece of square tubing and welded 4" flat iron to both sides on the ends and drilled 3/4" holes through them. I leave the trailer end of the bar fastened with a pin and when I drive on I put the Polaris in neutral and push or pull it a little bit to line up the other end of the bar to the receiver hitch. That's it, nothing else, it can't go forward or reverse and in thousands of miles of trailering on rough roads and fields, it has never moved sideways either.
Vehicle Trailer Boat trailer Car Subcompact car

Takes about 10 seconds
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@Glen: To release the winch I just manually put it in "Free Spool". Release the cable from the clevis and then stow the cable in "lock".

@ others: I do NOT use the winch to "tie down" the EV LSV. Rather:
- I use the winch, attached to the trailer center clevis, to initially compress the front suspension.
- I then attach 2 ratcheting straps to the clevis, wrap through the front bumper and tighten down to the 2 front tie down loops. This secures the vehicle by the straps, keeps the front suspension compressed and locked down AND takes the tension OFF the winch cable. There is NO stress left on the cable. (NOTE: its just a lot easier to compress and lock down the front suspension using the winch rather than the straps)
- However, the winch cable is left hooked to the front clevis and the winch spool in "lock" as a safety measure in case one of the forward straps should fail.

Again to Release:
- unfasten the ratcheting straps. (This puts tension back on the winch cable momentarily)
- put winch in Free Spool, unhook, stow cable in "lock"
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I always try to tie to the a-arms in a x pattern. I do not like to compress the suspension. The constant bouncing of the ranger will break or loosen your straps when compressing suspension.

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I always try to tie to the a-arms in a x pattern. I do not like to compress the suspension. The constant bouncing of the ranger will break or loosen your straps when compressing suspension.

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You are kidding right?
No you want the wheels secure and the body to bounce that's why people use wheel bonnets. In the rear right close to the hub there are holes in the bottom arm that are perfect to tie to.

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