So like many of us, I could nt remove either plug as they are seemingly welded in; wound up rounding out the Allen holes in the removal attempts. As suggested, I used JB Weld w short piece of Allen stock attached to socket and let cure fr several days. Soon as I tried to back these out, the JB failed and again Allen hole rounded out further. I am trying to stay away from an extractor based on the feedback and chance of damaging the tranny casing.
Local shop suggests leaving bolts alone and sucking out the fluid thru breather tube. To me that seems like it would be near impossible to get a tube all the way to the bottom / get a good drain of existing fluid...and that tube would be super small.
Other ideas? I have been messing w this x a week+ now!!!
Use a hammer and chisel (or punch) on one side of the plug to drive it in a counterclockwise direction. You can also use a little heat, but be careful in doing so as the case is aluminum and will not withstand a lot of that.
When you finally do get it out, buy new plugs and use a liberal amount of anti-seize compound when installing them. Keep in mind that these are sealed with O-rings and are torqued to INCH POUNDS (not foot pounds). They don't have to be very tight to seal and not vibrate loose, and the plugs having been over-tightened is most likely why you're having this difficulty.
I tried every suggestion on this page and still could not budge the tranny fill plug. My question is how deep can I drill the fill plug without going all the way through? My extractors should arrive today or tomorrow and I want them inserted as far as possible for maximum effect.
Not sure how far your plug protrudes past the case, but if there's any danger of hitting the case, I would use a punch.......but a chisel would get a better bite if there's no danger in hitting the case.
Hitching hiking on what Jerry suggested I have removed several Ranger drain plugs for myself and friends using a blunt chisel on the edge of the plugs in question being careful not to strike the case. After several good raps they always have broken loose for me. And yes Jerry is right about the anti-seize lube on the plugs and O'Rings going back and don't over tighten them! Especially the rear diff drain plug on the older 2009 and back models or you will strip out the threads in the case!
SUCCESS! I used a combo of penetrant catalyst, chisel, punch, torch.....finally center drilled w 9/16 drill & then hammered in #6 extractor & it finally let go! I will definitely use O ring & anti seize / lightly tighten.
Tranny fluid was black.
You guys are great! Thanks so much for your quick responses & perfect suggestions.
SUCCESS! I used a combo of penetrant catalyst, chisel, punch, torch.....finally center drilled w 9/16 drill & then hammered in #6 extractor & it finally let go! I will definitely use O ring & anti seize / lightly tighten.
Tranny fluid was black.
You guys are great! Thanks so much for your quick responses & perfect suggestions.
Something else to use. Clean the plug and threaded hole with rag and starting fluid. Put a drop or two of Loctite ’Blue’ on plug and tighten with thumb and two figures close to ratchet wrench head only. In other words - not much torque. It will not take a lot to remove. It will not come out during normal usage. Over-tightening is the issue. Very small chisel is best to remove a stripped out plug.
I tried the chisel bit and no luck at all.Trouble is that my plug is pretty much flush with the case. No room to get a good bite. My motorcycles have blue Loctite on every nut & bolt on them. I wish people would NEVER use an impact on aluminum.
So like many of us, I could nt remove either plug as they are seemingly welded in; wound up rounding out the Allen holes in the removal attempts. As suggested, I used JB Weld w short piece of Allen stock attached to socket and let cure fr several days. Soon as I tried to back these out, the JB failed and again Allen hole rounded out further. I am trying to stay away from an extractor based on the feedback and chance of damaging the tranny casing.
Local shop suggests leaving bolts alone and sucking out the fluid thru breather tube. To me that seems like it would be near impossible to get a tube all the way to the bottom / get a good drain of existing fluid...and that tube would be super small.
Other ideas? I have been messing w this x a week+ now!!!
If you can get Allen head to catch at all and there's room they make an attachment for an air chisel the you turn with a wrench. You put a 3/8 drive Allen head socket on it and rattle as you turn it. They work wonders if there is room.
If you can post a couple pics from different angles, might help with suggestions
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