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In one older thread i was asking about bearing size before i got into the trany . now id to know if anybody knows the measurement for the alignment tool that goes over the clutches when re installing the tranny or can i just take a measurement before i pull the transmission. i am skilled enough to make this tool if i have too .
Just trying to a little research before getting too it
 

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Please go read the service manual before posting about procedures you have not performed. The only tool used on the 570/900 RGR/RZR transmission is the one in the picture posted above.
 

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Sorry mrxlh, have never done a 900 but have done several cvt clutches from snowmobiles to atv,s to utv's, Polaris only. Now I went back and read the original post and that's maybe all he needed was center to center but as I stated their is more to it then that. Of the many Polaris models I've worked on each and every one had a tool to align the primary to the secondary and if you check the clutching section of your manual it should be there, if not my apologies.
 

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I have changed a ranger 900 and rzr 1000 transmission, the center to center distance tool is the only polaris tool used in the procedure, the mounting system on the 570,900,1K is vastly different than an 800 or anything earlier. If I am not mistaken, I believe Polaris deleted the center to center tool and procedure for the 15 up models, cause the mounting system is so tight, lack of play and slop when it is assembled, it is really not needed. Polaris had wanted to get away from the procedure that uses the alignment tool for years, the fact that the mount and cases changed 3 years in a row on the 900 RZR was evidence of that.
 

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Novel idea; I've always been picky about alignment as it affects the system quit a bit. From what I see in the parts book looks like the 900 has a brace between the motor and trans but still a rubber mount, getting closer but I think the only way to make it perfect is to integrate the motor/trans. I can still see some adjustment to get the shafts parallel but just how critical is that for a few thousand MM, it's just me having flashbacks to my racing days.
 

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I had my engine out to replace a seal and I debated on making or buying the distance tool. I rolled the dice without the tool and bolted the trans to the engine to where the mating points were originally at by eyeballing. I could see where they were mated together upon removal. Bolted the brace up but only tightened it last as it is slotted and adjustable. I took some measurements with a a good tape. This worked for me with no issues. Just saying, did not seem like it had much slack between the flanges to allow much ****ing of the trans. This of course may be the do not try this at home method but just saying it worked out for me. Hopefully, I won't be making a habit of removing the engine or trans.
 

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Scott, that's as good a way as any. Funny thing about shaft alignment, there is no way to adjust at least for most I have worked on, the only slop is in the bolt holes and that ain't much so you leave everything loose, do a little prying and get it as close as you can. Heck back in the racing days we would go to solid mounts and install bars to keep them aligned under torque. Bottom line is to get it as close as you can, I tend to be a little anal about this and is probably not as critical as I think after all it still has rubber mounts.
 

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Sorry, just assumed what they call the driveline isolator mount was rubber or at least had some rubber in it.
The Engine and Trans have an aluminum coupler that mounts between them, they are mounted together solid. ( other than the slack of the bolt holes).
The Trans on the rear, has a single mount (rubber isolator), the engine has a solid mount bar attached to it, with two rubber mounts (driveline isolators) on the ends, that attaches to the frame.
Three mounts total, all outboard of the engine and trans.
 

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Well that makes better sense then the parts fiche I was looking at, it appeared that the isolator was mounted between the motor and the solid bar on the trans. That's better, pretty much takes away the need for any adjustment assuming the factory got it right, I'd still check but that's just me. Thanks for the lesson guy's.
 
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