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Be sure to check that black canister filter above the fuel pump . They ALL get plugged and crack. Here is the cure ...

 

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Stink, goldish color oil only with a WIX filter .

 
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Stink, it could be that ... the bearing that the drive belt rides on go bad and can cause this. The bearing can be replaced .
It could also be from to high of an idle RPM. Much over 1200 on the idle and the secondary will kick in and will not allow shifting. An aftermarket drive belt will also cause a no shift . MANY belts offered are just a tad to short or wide and this keeps the secondary spinning and ....................no shift with engine on... You didnt mention engine hours/miles but I would guess it is either the cltch bearing or the belt. Pull that clutch cover and have a look. That compression sucks. I would say at one time the throttle body adapter had a crack flange where it bolts to the head and it sucked in dirt and dusted the engine. It may still be cracked .....lean on the throttle bodt and see if a crack opens up on the flange. The air box boots will rot right around the TBAP sensor and suck in dirt also. Take em off and look em over carefully.
Just fyi....LOW compression makes it a biotch to START an engine. Once running though, it may appear to run fairly normal other than possible excessive oil usage....Starting is the challenge.
 

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Stink, YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL !! You can look up ALL THIS STUFF . Did I not give you a link for a pdf downloadable service manual ?

I know about the air box covers......Dont go by the notches...turn the lid until it seats properly and then lock it down.
 

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Stink, that bearing looks .........toasty. Will it spin ? What brand of belt ? I have used SIXTY axles with good results. CAIMAN are also very good but a bit more money..
 

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Stink, just routing the cable any different than it is from the factory will cause a multitude of idling problems. When changing a throttle cable always pull the new one in along side the old one before disconnecting the old one. Check the cable right before it enters the throttlebody to see if that joint is coming apart .. OEM throttle cables are much better than the cheap knock offs..
 
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No, but you will need to have that bearing replaced. Special tools.....200 pound torque wrench...hold downs .spider removal tool.. Similar to this...
 
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Harvey would be a good way to go...but........those clutches will go 1500- 2000 hours if you keep em clean. You could take a new bearing and the clutch to a GOOD repair place and stay with the OEM.. Up to you of course...
 

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For a 700 the OEM is the way to avoid shifting problems.. Just the bearing ...
 

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Stink.......
 

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Stink, shoot some GOOD spray lubricant on the shaft behind the bellcrank a couple three different times and then work
the shift lever to and fro.. Shoot it again... Make sure the AGL fluid in the transmission is clean.. Shoot it again and then work that shifter.
 
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Stink, so you disconnected the cable from the shift lever and the cable slid smoothly but the lever was still stiff to move by hand ? I would continue to shoot a good penetrant in along side the shift shaft because the alternative is to remove the shifter cover and clean it out in there and re-grease and make sure the detent spring is in place . 99 times out of 100 if you get some GOOD penetrant in along side that shift shaft (#9) it will shift smoothly as long as the SHIFT DOGS are not rounded off. I would check the belt alignment with the clutch cover off .to make sure the secondary clutch is not engaging while idling.
Font Plant Parallel Diagram Art
 

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That is correct, the cable slid smoothly but once reattached to the lever (#26) it was not smooth. That lever sits supper close with no room in between to try and lube the shaft. Is it just having to continue spraying it and moving back and forth trying to get the lubricant to work it's way to the shaft?
Yes....... if the dogs are not gone and the spring is in place ...........it always works. What lubricant are you spraying in there ?
 

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Are you working the lever up and down after application ?

I always use
Liquid Wrench LED411 Lubricant & Penetrant

Spray.....work it........spray.......work it....
 

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Stink, was not aware they offered different thickness's . you are definately rubbing which will engage the transmission but if you are having hard shifting with the motor off , belt rubbing is not the cause. Belt rubbing (engaging secondary) with motor on definately will interfere with shifting. You need to pull the secondary clutch and see how many washers (shims) are already behind it. I believe (3) is maximum .
 

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Stink..........SEE WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY........:(
 
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