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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just acquired a 2009 Ranger 700 XP Camo from my buddy for super cheap ($150). It hasn't ran for almost a year though. It currently shows 910 hours on the display. Is that considered a lot for the year? I'm new to these machines so have lots to learn. I started troubleshooting it this past weekend. Fuel pump was not kicking on and got a error code 41 on the display which lead me to the TBAP wire harness. One of the wires was broken and the others are a little damaged as well. I ordered a new harness from OTB Powersports.

I decided to remove the fuel pump to inspect it and see what the fuel looked like inside the tank and it was bad. The fuel pump was very corroded and the fuel in the tank was dirty. Pulled the tank out and cleaned it out, I also ordered a new fuel pump from amazon.

I'd like to replace the spark plugs, it currently has some Champion RC7YC3 plugs installed. Are these still good to run or should I switch to some NGK 4644 plugs? Any advice and guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.





 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I’ll definitely go that route. For some reason the oil dip stick is stuck. I can lift the lever and it will only pull out just a tad bit. Have any idea what could be going on? I haven’t tried giving it a hard pull yet. Don’t want to mess anything up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Be sure to check that black canister filter above the fuel pump . They ALL get plugged and crack. Here is the cure ...

If I'm replacing the entire fuel pump assembly with a Quantum 2204306 will I still need to check the black canister?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Update. Installed the new fuel pump and TBAP wire harness. Engine still doesn’t turn on and no more codes. I checked for spark with a spark plug tester and it was good. I can hear the fuel pump priming. I disconnected the fuel line that goes to the engine to make sure fuel was coming out and it was. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge to test pressure at the moment. I cleaned the TBAP sensor and tried spraying starting fluid into the intake with the air filter removed and no luck.

I plan on purchasing a compression tester to check compression. What's the proper way of doing the compression test? Do I remove both plugs first or do one at a time? Do I need to keep the gas pedal pressed down when doing the test? Can I do this test with the engine cold? Any advice and guidance would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, couple of other questions I just thought about. When cracking the engine over with everything still intact should the plugs be wet or dry if I removed them right after? I'm wondering if the fuel injectors are working. Can I remove the injectors from the engine while still attached to the fuel rail and turn the key on to see if they are pumping out fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If the engine won't run and the plugs are dry you probably aren't getting fuel into the cylinders. Open the throttle place and shoot a little carb cleaner into the intake manifold and crank. If it fires off and dies fuel is at least part of the problem.
Wet plugs would indicate either no spark or flooding (too much fuel).
I believe you could remove the fuel rail and injectors and test out of the engine but I've not done that.
Do you mean to remove the air intake tube that attaches to the throttle body, open the throttle and spray some carb cleaner in there then try to start it? Not sure if I'm understanding you correctly on carb cleaner into the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Update. Well I got it running. I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal while pumping it and adjust the throttle cable under the seat to where it’s idling around 1200 rpm. (Not sure if that’s where it should be). It won’t shift while the engine is running though. Have to turn it off, shift it then turn it back on. The rear axle boots are torn and when I drive it they pop. Any advice on what’s going on with the no shifting while on and do the whole axles need replacement? Here is the compression now that it’s running.

Hand Speedometer Gauge Motor vehicle Measuring instrument

Gauge Speedometer Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Spoke to a local guy who repairs these machines. According to him it’s a bad primary drive clutch that is causing the no shifting while engine running. Can anyone verify this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks. I plan on removing the clutch cover to take a look. It has 910 hours and a little over 6K miles on it. What’s the normal RPM at idle? I noticed that when I removed the air box cover to replace the air filter it had some dirt in there. The seal also tore so ordered a new one. However the cover doesn’t seem to go on correctly from what I can tell. There is a tab that looks like it’s used to align the air box and cover but if I try to use it that way the clips don’t line up and no way of securing it. Not sure if that makes sense. I can get a pic to show what I’m talking about. I highly doubt they serviced this Ranger regularly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Stink, YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL !! You can look up ALL THIS STUFF . Did I not give you a link for a pdf downloadable service manual ?

I know about the air box covers......Dont go by the notches...turn the lid until it seats properly and then lock it down.
I have a copy of it. Just printed it out to make it easier for myself. Going to give it a good wash today, it’s pretty dirty from not being washed in a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The cylinder to cylinder variation in compression is pretty high.

Dirt in the air box past the filter is not a good sign for rings and may be the reason your compression was low. Low compression can also be caused by rings that are stuck, stuck in place and filled by carbon due to poor maintenance, incorrect fuel mixture, lots of low speed lugging/idling, incorrect oil use or any combination of the above. Sometimes stuck rings can be freed by using "magic elixirs" which are poured into the cylinder or intake. Success is low. You might want to recheck your compression cold and if it's low see if adding about a teaspoon of motor oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole increases it dramatically. If so the rings are stuck or shot.

I don't know much about your air box but I do know that the air box on my 2015 Ranger 570 FS has to be carefully installed to get it right. Throwing it in place and clipping it without close attention to fitment will almost certainly allow dirt to enter the engine.
Thanks, will check compression again while engine is cold. Going to try and come up with a game plan and work down that list of things. Seems like lots of stuff I have to do. But I’m excited to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Looking at axles and came across some by Tusk, ADR, East Lake and Sixity. All priced around the same. Anyone have any experience with any of these? Just looking for stock replacement that won’t break the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Stink, that bearing looks .........toasty. Will it spin ? What brand of belt ? I have used SIXTY axles with good results. CAIMAN are also very good but a bit more money..
I didn’t check to see if it would spin but I will. Pretty sure it’s the stock belt. Thanks for the axle recommendations.
 
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