PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
21 - 40 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
Joined
·
3,996 Posts
Low compression is at least part of the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Update. Well I got it running. I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal while pumping it and adjust the throttle cable under the seat to where it’s idling around 1200 rpm. (Not sure if that’s where it should be). It won’t shift while the engine is running though. Have to turn it off, shift it then turn it back on. The rear axle boots are torn and when I drive it they pop. Any advice on what’s going on with the no shifting while on and do the whole axles need replacement? Here is the compression now that it’s running.

Hand Speedometer Gauge Motor vehicle Measuring instrument

Gauge Speedometer Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Spoke to a local guy who repairs these machines. According to him it’s a bad primary drive clutch that is causing the no shifting while engine running. Can anyone verify this?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, it could be that ... the bearing that the drive belt rides on go bad and can cause this. The bearing can be replaced .
It could also be from to high of an idle RPM. Much over 1200 on the idle and the secondary will kick in and will not allow shifting. An aftermarket drive belt will also cause a no shift . MANY belts offered are just a tad to short or wide and this keeps the secondary spinning and ....................no shift with engine on... You didnt mention engine hours/miles but I would guess it is either the cltch bearing or the belt. Pull that clutch cover and have a look. That compression sucks. I would say at one time the throttle body adapter had a crack flange where it bolts to the head and it sucked in dirt and dusted the engine. It may still be cracked .....lean on the throttle bodt and see if a crack opens up on the flange. The air box boots will rot right around the TBAP sensor and suck in dirt also. Take em off and look em over carefully.
Just fyi....LOW compression makes it a biotch to START an engine. Once running though, it may appear to run fairly normal other than possible excessive oil usage....Starting is the challenge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks. I plan on removing the clutch cover to take a look. It has 910 hours and a little over 6K miles on it. What’s the normal RPM at idle? I noticed that when I removed the air box cover to replace the air filter it had some dirt in there. The seal also tore so ordered a new one. However the cover doesn’t seem to go on correctly from what I can tell. There is a tab that looks like it’s used to align the air box and cover but if I try to use it that way the clips don’t line up and no way of securing it. Not sure if that makes sense. I can get a pic to show what I’m talking about. I highly doubt they serviced this Ranger regularly.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL !! You can look up ALL THIS STUFF . Did I not give you a link for a pdf downloadable service manual ?

I know about the air box covers......Dont go by the notches...turn the lid until it seats properly and then lock it down.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
Joined
·
3,996 Posts
The cylinder to cylinder variation in compression is pretty high.

Dirt in the air box past the filter is not a good sign for rings and may be the reason your compression was low. Low compression can also be caused by rings that are stuck, stuck in place and filled by carbon due to poor maintenance, incorrect fuel mixture, lots of low speed lugging/idling, incorrect oil use or any combination of the above. Sometimes stuck rings can be freed by using "magic elixirs" which are poured into the cylinder or intake. Success is low. You might want to recheck your compression cold and if it's low see if adding about a teaspoon of motor oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole increases it dramatically. If so the rings are stuck or shot.

I don't know much about your air box but I do know that the air box on my 2015 Ranger 570 FS has to be carefully installed to get it right. Throwing it in place and clipping it without close attention to fitment will almost certainly allow dirt to enter the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Stink, YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL !! You can look up ALL THIS STUFF . Did I not give you a link for a pdf downloadable service manual ?

I know about the air box covers......Dont go by the notches...turn the lid until it seats properly and then lock it down.
I have a copy of it. Just printed it out to make it easier for myself. Going to give it a good wash today, it’s pretty dirty from not being washed in a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The cylinder to cylinder variation in compression is pretty high.

Dirt in the air box past the filter is not a good sign for rings and may be the reason your compression was low. Low compression can also be caused by rings that are stuck, stuck in place and filled by carbon due to poor maintenance, incorrect fuel mixture, lots of low speed lugging/idling, incorrect oil use or any combination of the above. Sometimes stuck rings can be freed by using "magic elixirs" which are poured into the cylinder or intake. Success is low. You might want to recheck your compression cold and if it's low see if adding about a teaspoon of motor oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole increases it dramatically. If so the rings are stuck or shot.

I don't know much about your air box but I do know that the air box on my 2015 Ranger 570 FS has to be carefully installed to get it right. Throwing it in place and clipping it without close attention to fitment will almost certainly allow dirt to enter the engine.
Thanks, will check compression again while engine is cold. Going to try and come up with a game plan and work down that list of things. Seems like lots of stuff I have to do. But I’m excited to work on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Looking at axles and came across some by Tusk, ADR, East Lake and Sixity. All priced around the same. Anyone have any experience with any of these? Just looking for stock replacement that won’t break the bank.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, that bearing looks .........toasty. Will it spin ? What brand of belt ? I have used SIXTY axles with good results. CAIMAN are also very good but a bit more money..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Stink, that bearing looks .........toasty. Will it spin ? What brand of belt ? I have used SIXTY axles with good results. CAIMAN are also very good but a bit more money..
I didn’t check to see if it would spin but I will. Pretty sure it’s the stock belt. Thanks for the axle recommendations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Quick question on the throttle cable. If I grab the cable that’s under the seat and move it it messes with the RPM while the engine is running. That’s not normal correct?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, just routing the cable any different than it is from the factory will cause a multitude of idling problems. When changing a throttle cable always pull the new one in along side the old one before disconnecting the old one. Check the cable right before it enters the throttlebody to see if that joint is coming apart .. OEM throttle cables are much better than the cheap knock offs..
 
  • Like
Reactions: StinkerBean

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks Jungleman, haven't checked the joint yet but pretty sure it's damaged due to the slightest movement of the cable with change the RPM. I haven't messed with how it was routed but noticed when I was removing the belt cover my arm touched the throttle cable and the idle changed.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
No, but you will need to have that bearing replaced. Special tools.....200 pound torque wrench...hold downs .spider removal tool.. Similar to this...
 
  • Wow
Reactions: StinkerBean

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Probably makes more sense to just a replacement in my situation. From what I’ve read, OEM is the way to go if not going with a quality aftermarket clutch. However I’m on a budget and was looking into Harvey ATV Parts Mother Clutch. I know eBay and Amazon clutches are frowned upon but I’m considering it due to the limited amount of use this Ranger will get. I’ve read his customer service is great and does give a 1 year warranty. Would I be making a huge mistake if I went with one of his clutches?

 
21 - 40 of 99 Posts
Top