[Jungleman]

Harvey would be a good way to go...but........those clutches will go 1500- 2000 hours if you keep em clean. You could take a new bearing and the clutch to a GOOD repair place and stay with the OEM.. Up to you of course...

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks. I’ll call around tomorrow and see if I can find a good repair facility that can take care of it. Is there anything else I would need to purchase with the bearing if I find a local repair shop? As far as a new belt, an OEM Polaris is the way to go correct?

 

[Jungleman]

For a 700 the OEM is the way to avoid shifting problems.. Just the bearing ...

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks for the help. Really appreciate everyone’s help.

 

[BPS]

Is there anything else I would need to purchase with the bearing if I find a local repair shop?

Let the local repair shop source the parts.

 

[StinkerBean]

How much play is considered normal when steering before the wheels engage to turn? I have lots of play side to side when trying to steer the machine. If I lift up the front I can grab the wheel/tire on each side and move it side to side quite a bit. I can see the whole tie rod moving forward and back. Would this be the whole rack potentially bad or just the tie rods?

 

[StinkerBean]

Can anyone confirm is this (Polaris 3211162) is the correct belt for a 2009 Ranger 700 XP? Having a tough time confirming which is the correct part number needed.

 

[Jungleman]

stink, I would guess that you will need balljoints , suspension bushings and possibly wheel bearings but you will need to check all these things out as they ALL effect steering . Not unusual for an '09 to need a new RACK BOSS early on. Here is your belt....... Polaris Side by Side 2009 OEM Parts Diagram for Drive Train, Secondary Clutch All Options | Partzilla.com

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks again, my dumb a$$ forgot to check the service manual. I just checked it and that’s correct, 3211118 is the one I need. I’ll take a look at all the front end stuff to see what’s going on.

Update: contacted my local Polaris dealer to see if the belt was in stock and they told me it has been succeeded by 3211162.

 

[StinkerBean]

Anyone have a picture of how the throttle cable is routed under the seat on a ranger like mine? I looked in the service manual with no luck and believe that it is routed incorrectly at the moment.

 

[Jungleman]

Stink.......

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks. Mine was routed incorrectly. I removed the primary clutch and sure enough the bearing was seized up. Installed the mother clutcher and new polaris belt and now I can shift gears while the engine is running. Are these rangers suppose to be able to shift easily or are they a little hard to switch between gears?

 

[Jungleman]

Stink, shoot some GOOD spray lubricant on the shaft behind the bellcrank a couple three different times and then work
the shift lever to and fro.. Shoot it again... Make sure the AGL fluid in the transmission is clean.. Shoot it again and then work that shifter.

 

[StinkerBean]

I’ll definitely give that a try. I just replaced the oil and trans fluid a couple of days ago.

 

[StinkerBean]

I sprayed some good lubricant and didn't seem to help. I disconnected the cable from the transmission and moved the shifter, the cable felt pretty smooth. When I replaced the clutch I did not check for belt alignment, is that something that could cause issues with shifting if it is misaligned?

 

[Jungleman]

Stink, so you disconnected the cable from the shift lever and the cable slid smoothly but the lever was still stiff to move by hand ? I would continue to shoot a good penetrant in along side the shift shaft because the alternative is to remove the shifter cover and clean it out in there and re-grease and make sure the detent spring is in place . 99 times out of 100 if you get some GOOD penetrant in along side that shift shaft (#9) it will shift smoothly as long as the SHIFT DOGS are not rounded off. I would check the belt alignment with the clutch cover off .to make sure the secondary clutch is not engaging while idling.

 

[StinkerBean]

That is correct, the cable slid smoothly but once reattached to the lever (#26) it was not smooth. That lever sits supper close with no room in between to try and lube the shaft. Is it just having to continue spraying it and moving back and forth trying to get the lubricant to work it's way to the shaft?

 

[Jungleman]

That is correct, the cable slid smoothly but once reattached to the lever (#26) it was not smooth. That lever sits supper close with no room in between to try and lube the shaft. Is it just having to continue spraying it and moving back and forth trying to get the lubricant to work it's way to the shaft?

Yes....... if the dogs are not gone and the spring is in place ...........it always works. What lubricant are you spraying in there ?

 

[StinkerBean]

Using the Blaster silicone lube. Should I use something different?

Blaster 11-oz Silicone Lube in the Hardware Lubricants department at Lowes.com

 

[Jungleman]

Are you working the lever up and down after application ?

I always use
Liquid Wrench LED411 Lubricant & Penetrant

Spray.....work it........spray.......work it....