PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
61 - 80 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,651 Posts
There is always the possibility that there is nothing wrong with the shifting. I run in to this all of the time when an owner acquires a new or different machine than they are used to. Or, a new SxS owner. What one person perceives to be rough shifting may actually be perfectly normal for that unit.

Recently had one stop by complaining about belt slip on a 700 because of how far they had to push the pedal to get the Ranger to move compared to their buddies 570. I jumped in an it was just like my 700 or any other that I had driven. After talking about it I finally understood the problem. It was the difference between having a throttle cable on the 700 and the 570 being throttle by wire. There was absolutely no issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I'll try to get video of it and see what you fellas think. At this point I'm just trying to get it as good as I can and be safe on the road. Let's not forget I only paid $150 for it. :) Although I have a total of about $900 into it so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
I believe that I have an alignment issue with the belt. With the cover off the belt is touching the inside sheave. The manual calls for alignment washers to be used. They give two different sizes. Should I purchase both sizes to see which works the best?

Also, when at idle should the secondary clutch be spinning at all? Mine spins a little here and there but wondering if it’s due to the belt touching the sheave.

Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, was not aware they offered different thickness's . you are definately rubbing which will engage the transmission but if you are having hard shifting with the motor off , belt rubbing is not the cause. Belt rubbing (engaging secondary) with motor on definately will interfere with shifting. You need to pull the secondary clutch and see how many washers (shims) are already behind it. I believe (3) is maximum .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I tried uploading a video of the clutch spinning in the above post. The hard shifting is more towards when the engine is running. While off it’s not that bad. I think it feels bad due to not having a shift knob installed. Not sure what happened to the stock one.

There are two sizes of alignment washers.
(.030”) PN: 7556454
(.060”) PN: 7556120

Should I purchase one of each?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink..........SEE WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY........:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I spent some time yesterday looking over the ranger after driving it. I've had a rattling noise coming from somewhere towards the front end and I think I finally found the issue which is a very worn out universal joint on the front prop shaft. I was able to remove the cover on the floor board and grab the shaft. When moving it around I can hear the rattling pretty loud and then looked and could see the bad universal joint. I did some research and it appears that the I can just get some from my local auto parts store which are NAPA #UJ338. Any reason why I should go with some different universal joints than from NAPA?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, make sure that yoke is not shot out as well. I believe NAPA sells or can get these SKF ujoints also according to POS POLARIS and they are way cheaper at NAPA. The problem with the NAPA 338's is they are almost impossible to grease with the zerk location and that shaft is no where near balanced and will kill a ujoint that is not greased regularly. Get some good LUCAS MARINE grease and ujoints will last a whole lot longer ..
SKF Universal Joint Drive Shaft UJ838
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Yes, that is the one... Remember to check the splines on that yoke as they wear out and let the assembly slop around. Looks like the SKF's are cheaper on EBAY....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Any tips or tricks on removing the prop shaft? I was taking a look at it yesterday and have no idea on what is the preferred way on trying to get it out. Looks like everything is a super tight fit. That roll pin looks like it's going to be real fun removing.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
Stink, on a 2009 700 I prefer to remove the front bumper and after disconnecting the power and pulling the axles out and then unbolting the gearcase , pull the gearcase and shaft out all in one piece through the front and then knock the roll pin out on the ground in front of me. Then go back in with a 2" long stainless steel bolt ...5/16" ...diameter and a self locking nut instead of the roll pin. Try to lube up the slip yoke on the transmission if it is stuck on there. If it hasnt been greased in a long while , the slip yoke tends to freeze on the shaft. See if the slip yoke will take some grease before removing the shaft . Use Never Seze on everything with splines....Always ..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Thanks, I just ordered a Rack Boss and axles with bearings from East Lake to replace my worn out ones. Will be a good time to knock it all out at the same time while it's apart. What is the most cost effective tool that you would recommend to remove the u-joints?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
"What is the most cost effective tool that you would recommend to remove the u-joints? ".....

Stink, once again.......go to your SERVICE MANUAL . They explain (with photos) exactly how to R & R u-joints..

For the wheel bearings, buy a GOOD PAIR OF SNAP RING PLIERS....and press the bearings in and out instead of beating them..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 ·
The service manual shows the use of a vise for the prop shaft. Is it possible to get it done somehow without a vise? I don't have one at the moment but if needed I'm sure I can find someone who has one I can use. Just trying to plan ahead.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,761 Posts
tink, they can be R & R'd without a vise but a vise sure helps. You would at least need a C-clamp to fully seat the caps..
 
61 - 80 of 99 Posts
Top