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Discussion Starter #1
After contemplating about turboing my 2012 diesel ranger, I told myself I'd just buy a correct size turbo, and do the fabbing myself.

Here's how it turned out











I made the brackets myself, and bought 4 radiator hoses all together to get correct bends I needed to plumb the inlet and outlet air from the cold side of the turbo.

The wastegate shuts the boost down at 7-7.5 psi, which is just perfect for a high compression IDI diesel. I backed out the injection pump screw 1 1/4 turns just as PPE performance says to do in their turbo kit. there is no smoke emitted from this machine, so there's more than enough boost there to do the job.

The top speed of my machine increased from 30 ish to 37-41mph on flat or slightly uphill ground. the accelerating improvement is VERY noticable. I haven't lined it up against the 800 HD yet, but I'm betting the diesel will hang right with it at least up to 35 mph, when before it wasn't even a race.

The turbo is a MHI (mitsubishi heavy industries ) TD02 twin scroll turbo I bought new for $450. along with the other parts, I have about $600 into it roughly. I bought alot of parts I didn't need, and I also have a boost and pyro gauge for it too, but am not sure if I'm gonna install it yet.

Hopefully I can get some video of it tomorrow!

Adam
 

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Very cool Adam..
 

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very cool!
 

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That's a nice fab job and clean looking install. I guess the port where you tied into the block with your oil line was already there just plugged?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies guys

After doing this turbo install, I'm afriad I won't be doing anymore! It took me 3 days of fabbing (about 4 hours per day) and brainstorming to get it right, and I'm not done yet. The turbo is closer than I'd like to the upper frame rail, but I really don't have alot of choice in that now. I think it'll be ok, but I'm going to wrap the turbo hot housing and the exhaust pipe in turbo wrap or else build an aluminum heat shield to help shield the frame rail and the seat from excess heat although I'm quite suprised that there really isn't much there at all. but these are the winter months, and I expect that to change when summer comes on.

The port for the turbo return isn't plugged the two bolt holes are there and threaded for the bracket, but the hole between them for the return oil is drilled in about 1/4 inch and stops. I have to drill the hole the rest of the way through. So now, If I want to take the turbo off, I have to either put a plug on the bracket or take the bracket off and plug the hole with slicone and leave overnight. neither of which I'm planing on doing!

The exhaust really isn't loud at all after it goes through the turbo, but I do get a droaning sound in the cab in the mid rpms. I'm thinking about rotating the exhaust pipe downward to point the noise away from the cab. if that doesn't help, I'm gonna put a baby glasspack on it. but even as it is now, it's barable, and has a nice turbo whine!


I already have some resvervations of how I'd do it differently if I had it to do again, but all in all, I think it's going to serve me well, and I'd have a hard time going back to the N/A diesel.!

I didn't get time to make a video today, but maybe tomorrow.

Adam
 

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diesel

Nice work Adam I am enjoying my diesel so far, would look a little more speed but I am not talented enough to pull this fab job off. Much slower then my gas 800 but I like the diesel motor and low end torque.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
John-

A little more speed can be obtained just by backing out the fuel screw a half turn... I did that on mine at first, and if gave a noticable improvement, but may void warranty if you don't have an understanding dealership.

Adam
 

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Think before you wrap it you should hook up the coolant lines to the ports you left open? Or not worried about heat? Also, you didn't mention use of a CAC. I bet with so little pressure you could use something like a transmission cooler for (gear lube not ATF) as a CAC. Could probably have one made up at your local radiator shop to fit the hose going from your turbo to your intake. I bet you would get better acceleration. After all air coming out of the turbo is not as cool as air coming directly from the filter housing. Finding a place to put it would be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Nick,

Water cooling a diesel engine isn't needed. very few, if any, diesels run water cooling. reason being that the diesel engines run a much lowerer EGT than gas engines do.


As for any type of aftercooling, I'm not worried about that, mainly because my boost is wastegate limited at 7 psi, which means not enough inlet pressure to cause a heat problem. I like to keep things simple, and this one is!
 

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I work on diesel engines well big diesel engines. All of todays turbos are liquid cooled. Even in the small mitsu trucks they have been doing it forever way before Mack. Maybe I will stick to big diesels :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I worked on CAT diesels in the truck stop for about 4 years before I quit and went back to ranching..... can't say I ever saw a turbo that was liquid cooled. Maybe on Cummins/Detroit/Mack?

Adam
 

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All of the smaller trucks mitsu and hino have always liquid cooled their turbos. That I've worked on. Mack started with the new 2007 emissions. CAT dropped out of the engines for trucks until they came out with their CAT brand of truck. Haven't worked on a new CAT so couldn't say if they are. As well as any new cummins. We just got one in a new truck but didn't pay to much attention to it. I just figured they put those ports on there for a reason. Do have to give you a pat on the back tho. I couldn't fab that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I dropped out of the truck engine field in 2006. the engines weren't much fun to work on anymore. The emmisions stuff has really made it almost impossable for mechanics these days. most people have no idea.
 
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