U Joint Grease
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I don't think the type of grease matters as much as making sure it gets greased. That slip yoke sees little to no movement at all. The grease is more or less there to make sure rust/dirt/mud doesn't get into the splines and make it impossible to get apart.
Any grease will do. I run Amsoil's general purpose grease... Moly based greases are more for loader pins/bushings where extreme loads are present. They're not as good for bearings, u-joints, that sort of thing.
Most greases these days are lithium based and they do nicely.
Any grease will do. I run Amsoil's general purpose grease... Moly based greases are more for loader pins/bushings where extreme loads are present. They're not as good for bearings, u-joints, that sort of thing.
Most greases these days are lithium based and they do nicely.
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I agree. Just like oil changes....the brand doesn't matter nearly as much as just doing it regularly.
I use Mystik JT-6, which is a lot like Lucas Red 'N' Tacky........high temp red.
Thanks guys. For the life of me I hadn't been able to figure out why a "Premium U Joint Lube" (other than increased revenues for Polaris). Calling it a U joint lube is a bit of a misnomer when the grease isn't anywhere near the U joints.
I remember when greasing the truck slip joints (which were drilled down the centre from the yolk end), you pumped grease until any water was pushed out & grease started to emerge.
On a side note, are there replacement U joints that are greasable for the Ranger or RZR?
I remember when greasing the truck slip joints (which were drilled down the centre from the yolk end), you pumped grease until any water was pushed out & grease started to emerge.
On a side note, are there replacement U joints that are greasable for the Ranger or RZR?
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Agreed. That's why I switched all my greases over from running John Deere grease to Amsoil grease. Night and day difference.
In the OP's particular application, all greasing that slip yoke does basically is displace water and dirt. There is no movement. Any grease will work for that.
Alot of people around here run the Mystic JP6 grease. I've run it and while it's ok, it doesn't seem to be that great in bearings. My neighbor couldn't figure out why he was losing PTO bearings every year in his haying equipment until he stopped using Mystic and went to another brand..
Now as for a grease that stays where you put it, that JP6 is the stickiest stuff I've been around. that grease definatly wouldn't wash out!
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A different application, Check this out grease comparison testing
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Kris, Are you talking about the O-ring that is at the end of the slip joint ?
Is there one? :dispirited: I was just wondering why they'd only want 3 pumps of grease. I know if you go "nuts" pumping grease into Bearing Buddys that you can blow out the seal & get grease all over the place.
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A O-ring that sorta kinda retains the grease should be there....
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I bought mine around that time, so I'm thinking mine probably doesn't have it.
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I had not noticed any seal or o ring in the slip yoke when I had the transmissions out of the two 2011s, but I wasn't really looking either.
Regardless, use your grease of choice on the yoke. it's pretty much only purpose is to displace water and dirt so rust won't set in..
As far as the red n tacky grease/ mystic jp6, I have a couple tubes left, and it's the last tubes I will buy. the stuff is so nasty I get it all over everything and it doesn't wash off. also very hard to pump. It might be good for joints that are exposed to alot of water, but I'll use some other grease, I can't stand that stuff.lol
Best thing I've found for the U-joints since they're not greaseable is hitting them with JP1 (blue can) chain lube at ever service. I also hit the steering U joint above the steering rack since it likes to freeze up from rust as well. I've been doing this and it's definately helped the longevity on the U joints. I also use a seal pick to slightly pull back the seal on the front ball joints and shoot some PJ1 in there too. when you spray it on it leeches into parts like a cleaner, and then evaporates and leaves behind the grease film.
Regardless, use your grease of choice on the yoke. it's pretty much only purpose is to displace water and dirt so rust won't set in..
As far as the red n tacky grease/ mystic jp6, I have a couple tubes left, and it's the last tubes I will buy. the stuff is so nasty I get it all over everything and it doesn't wash off. also very hard to pump. It might be good for joints that are exposed to alot of water, but I'll use some other grease, I can't stand that stuff.lol
Best thing I've found for the U-joints since they're not greaseable is hitting them with JP1 (blue can) chain lube at ever service. I also hit the steering U joint above the steering rack since it likes to freeze up from rust as well. I've been doing this and it's definately helped the longevity on the U joints. I also use a seal pick to slightly pull back the seal on the front ball joints and shoot some PJ1 in there too. when you spray it on it leeches into parts like a cleaner, and then evaporates and leaves behind the grease film.
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If you add together all of the land encompassed by North Cumberland WMA (Royal Blue), Brimstone, and Windrock (all of those trail systems are adjoined), there's WAY more than 7200 acres........more like 300,000 acres.
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