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Mine is a 2016 900 Crew, I backed it out of the shop, then pressure washed it as I always do. Let it air dry a couple of hours, started it back up, let it idle about 15 mins, pulled it in. 2 weeks later, it spins over, but no cluster power. It seems battery is good, I put a maintainer on it, it spins over really fast. Also alot of ticking going on, even with key in off position. Took off the + and - and reinstalled, I checked all fuses under the back seat, all good, changed the key ignition (thinking that was it) Nope. Even now I get absoluty no power at all now. Very frustrated!! Are there fuses between the fuse block and the cluster or ignition switch? Where do I go from here? TIA
 

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"Also alot of ticking going on, even with key in off position."

Hey Homer, WHERE is the ticking sound from ? Front....Rear gearcase.........? Is that the original OEM battery ? Have you checked the ground ?
 

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"Also alot of ticking going on, even with key in off position."

Hey Homer, WHERE is the ticking sound from ? Front....Rear gearcase.........? Is that the original OEM battery ? Have you checked the ground ?
Sounds like ticking is under back seat area, OCM maybe, 8 month old battery, main ground bar behind the seat seems very secure
 

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I would at least make sure that the turf mode solenoid is not extending and retracting in the rear gearcase causing the clicking noise. That will cause some expen$ive repairs. The actuator driver relay boxes with the harness to the solenoid tend leak and set them off..and on......and off>>>>>>>>>>..
 

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I would at least make sure that the turf mode solenoid is not extending and retracting in the rear gearcase causing the clicking noise. That will cause some expen$ive repairs. The actuator driver relay boxes with the harness to the solenoid tend leak and set them off..and on......and off>>>>>>>>>>..
Going back to no cluster power, are there any other fuses besides what’s in the fuse box under the rear seat? I will pay more attention to the clicking location
 

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The fuses and relays (except for the rear differential solenoid relay) appear to all be under the seat base. I would double check the connection on the ECU to make sure it is dry and then fully engaged.
 

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The fuses and relays (except for the rear differential solenoid relay) appear to all be under the seat base. I would double check the connection on the ECU to make sure it is dry and then fully engaged.
I’ll check it out, thanks for the replies, will check back
 

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Pressure washing can force water into places it normally wouldn't get into, including things considered "waterproof" and which may be waterproof at atmospheric pressure but aren't at high pressure. If you've been routinely pressure washing the problem may have started long ago with wet terminals inside connectors and between connections, allowing corrosion to build and eventually causing issues. The latest washing may have been the coup de gras or may be coincidental. The problem of not running could be as simple as water inside spark plug boots or as complicated as water inside some electronic control or sensor.
Were it me, I would disconnect all connectors, inspect, clean & dry where necessary and grease them with dielectric grease. I would include ground connections that are screwed to the chassis. If you sprayed water around the area where the fuses, relays and ECU are it's possible that water got forced into one of the relays or the connector to the ECU. Be methodical and be certain you've found every possible connection to inspect. Once you've eliminated the possibility of bad connections you could swap a known good relay in for existing relays one at a time to see, by process of elimination, if a relay is a problem.
Once you've assured that connections and relays aren't the problem you can begin to look at electronic components. IMHO, taking a methodical approach yields better results than taking a shotgun approach and grabbing at straws. These days everything is controlled by the ECU so a bad signal voltage from something like the gas pedal or brake switch might cause the ECU to prevent the engine from receiving spark or fuel. A check for spark while cranking can eliminate ignition as the problem and leave fuel related electronics as the area of search for the problem.
It's a long shot but possible that if moisture is at the root of the problem letting the vehicle sit out in the hot sun for a few days may dry things out.
No matter the outcome I would stay away from pressure washing with the exception of the outside of the body and areas where no electrics exist in the future.
 

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Mine is a 2016 900 Crew, I backed it out of the shop, then pressure washed it as I always do. Let it air dry a couple of hours, started it back up, let it idle about 15 mins, pulled it in. 2 weeks later, it spins over, but no cluster power. It seems battery is good, I put a maintainer on it, it spins over really fast. Also alot of ticking going on, even with key in off position. Took off the + and - and reinstalled, I checked all fuses under the back seat, all good, changed the key ignition (thinking that was it) Nope. Even now I get absoluty no power at all now. Very frustrated!! Are there fuses between the fuse block and the cluster or ignition switch? Where do I go from here? TIA
Had a similar problem. Lift the weatherproofing rubber around the injectors and if water or moisture is visible vacuum it out. This cured my problem.
 
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