PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

3321 - 3338 of 3338 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,435 Posts
The wife and i drove about 90 miles through very rugged terrain in the Colorado mountains scouting potential hunting spots, everywhere from 7500' to over 10000'. Very rugged terrain with very steep climbs and declines. Ranger kicked its ass. Just need some skid plates now, i thought several things were coming through the floor to join us...
The Trail Armor skids I installed are one of the best modifications I've made to my Ranger, second only to the Duraclutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
2005 Ranger 500 4x4.
129575

I fixed a bad start solenoid. Turning the key would often just go CLIKK, and wouldn't crank. It might crank on the second, third or tenth try. The positive battery cable to solenoid was routed to the terminal strip, then to the solenoid. The positive terminal on the terminal strip looked a bit fried and that screw terminal looks too small to take starting current. I made a new positive cable to go straight to the solenoid and a second, slightly smaller cable to go to the terminal strip. All other cables were repaired with new ends and marine grade heat shrink or completely replaced with new. Everything is now clean and shiny. The battery is good and is kept on a maintainer. All that work seemed to make zero difference. It still required playing with the key or brake pedal to get it to crank. Solenoid tested good with a volt meter, but after drilling rivets and taking it apart the problem was easy to see. Corroded contacts=high resistance and heat. One of the fixed contacts was really cooked. All contract faces were filed completely smooth and polished. Reassembled the solenoid with new rivets. That has fixed the problem. It now cranks on the first time every time. I found the same solenoid on-line for less than $30, so will go ahead and buy a new one to have a spare ready in case the problem reappears when I have less time to tinker.

129574
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,445 Posts
Bought a MossyOak feed block. I've never tried one but thought I would. I have six deer coming in feeding or looking for feed. So I'd to keep them around for another month.
Has anyone else used the feed block ? I'm wondering how long it will last. Of course I put it out with my ranger.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
859 Posts
Replaced RF upper, LF upper and lower control arm bushings/sleeves RR and LR knuckle bushings/sleeves. Not to bad for 4,736 miles of WV riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
2005 Ranger 500 4x4.
View attachment 129575
I fixed a bad start solenoid. Turning the key would often just go CLIKK, and wouldn't crank. It might crank on the second, third or tenth try. The positive battery cable to solenoid was routed to the terminal strip, then to the solenoid. The positive terminal on the terminal strip looked a bit fried and that screw terminal looks too small to take starting current. I made a new positive cable to go straight to the solenoid and a second, slightly smaller cable to go to the terminal strip. All other cables were repaired with new ends and marine grade heat shrink or completely replaced with new. Everything is now clean and shiny. The battery is good and is kept on a maintainer. All that work seemed to make zero difference. It still required playing with the key or brake pedal to get it to crank. Solenoid tested good with a volt meter, but after drilling rivets and taking it apart the problem was easy to see. Corroded contacts=high resistance and heat. One of the fixed contacts was really cooked. All contract faces were filed completely smooth and polished. Reassembled the solenoid with new rivets. That has fixed the problem. It now cranks on the first time every time. I found the same solenoid on-line for less than $30, so will go ahead and buy a new one to have a spare ready in case the problem reappears when I have less time to tinker.

View attachment 129574
How hard was it to remove and take it apart? I have the same year and engine and its doing the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
Ranger Shade
Being in the desert we need to carry our own shade. I started with a double layer of garden shade about 20 feet long. Then using 1.25” and 1.5” PVC pipe I made a collapsible support that fits in the lock-n-ride holes in the bed that stick up about 15” from the side rail. I used the PVC pipe by making three 1.5” pieces and two pieces of the 1.25” inside them.

The PVC slides thru the garden shade and is clamped in place. I am using telescoping tent poles on the outside ends with some place to anchor and hold it up. Seems to be working fairly well. Total cost is around $50.00 with the cost of garden shade and PVC. I did use lots of electric tape and Flex Seal to get the pipes to be snug in the lock-n-ride holes and inside the 1.5” pipe for stability.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Ranger Shade
Being in the desert we need to carry our own shade. I started with a double layer of garden shade about 20 feet long. Then using 1.25” and 1.5” PVC pipe I made a collapsible support that fits in the lock-n-ride holes in the bed that stick up about 15” from the side rail. I used the PVC pipe by making three 1.5” pieces and two pieces of the 1.25” inside them.

The PVC slides thru the garden shade and is clamped in place. I am using telescoping tent poles on the outside ends with some place to anchor and hold it up. Seems to be working fairly well. Total cost is around $50.00 with the cost of garden shade and PVC. I did use lots of electric tape and Flex Seal to get the pipes to be snug in the lock-n-ride holes and inside the 1.5” pipe for stability.
Pictures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
3321 - 3338 of 3338 Posts
Top