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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After the warranty is up what are most using for engine oil. I will probably run Schaeffers 5w50 or Joe gibbs 5w50 from spring -fall next year.
For the winter thinking Amsoil 0w40 powersports. Any thoughts on running a 0w40 in these 570 efi motors that are speced for 5w50?
I'm thinking that 0w40 would be fine for temps(-35f to +40f) in Wisconsin for winter use , or maybe 5w50 is fine year around.
I ran mobil1 0w40 in my 12 500 ho sportsman with no problems,but that motor is a completely different animal that was originally spec for 0w40.
Being it only uses 2 quarts , not worried about using the higher dollar oils(amsoil, schaffers ,gibbs,klotz). They're easier for me to get than the 5w50 from castrol or mobil1.
 

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Im a firm beliver in running one brand oil for the life of a machine or automobile. Ive seen autos start burning oil after changing name brand oils. Guess its different additives in different oils.
 

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For the price its not that great(average additive package), want a better oil for the money.
If you have the specs for the 5w-50 I would like to see them so I can do some comparisons with the alternatives. I bet lots of others would too.
 

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Power Sports OEM manufacturers are trying to keep the aftermarket business for themselves and they make it difficult for customers to find information.
 

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If it is known that it has an "average additive package" that would imply the specifications are available.

Also, if an oil blender claims that their oil meets Polaris specs why don't they make the specification known so a person doesn't have to just take their word for it?
 

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Good luck finding them. Polaris contracts with a private oil blender in Minnesota to make their lubes and this company will do it all from packaging to warehousing and shipping to the dealers. As I said, they want a monopoly on what you buy for your machine and they only recommend what makes them money. They have no interest in providing info so you can buy elsewhere, that's common in the powersports industry because selling oil is very profitable.

AMSOIL has done extensive competitive testing on Polaris fluids and their recommendation's are based on what they have determined.

 

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I want to see this "average additive package" so I can compare the numbers myself. I don't trust amsoil any more than I do any one else when it comes to advertising and trying to make a buck.
 

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Okay, if that information is proprietary how could a person know what kind of additives are in it? Or could it just be BS?
 

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Zinc is hazardous and is supposed to be listed on MSDS certification.

Polaris lists zinc compounds at 1-3 % as do some other oils.

Amsoil doesn't list any hazardous compounds on their MSDS for their 4 stroke powersports oil. Does that mean that it doesn't have zinc in it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
There is a voa on "Bob is the OIL Guy" of Polaris ps4.It was the 2w50 ps4, which most agree was a fictional spec and the same as the newer 5w50 ps4.
Unless Lube-tech has drastically changed the add pack or the lab messed up the test , I would call it average. It may work just fine, but I think it's over priced .
Wasn't trying to start a debate on Polaris oil , run it if you like. I'm not buying more of it after the warranty is up. There are better oils for the same money in my opinion.
I really was looking for opinions about using 0w40 for the winter or just sticking with 5w50 year around in this newer engine design. If I stay 5w50 all year,it will most likely
be Schaeffers brand. If I decide on 0w40 winter,5w50 summer it will probably be mobil 1 to stay with one brand.


google "Polaris ps4 voa"
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I want to see this "average additive package" so I can compare the numbers myself. I don't trust amsoil any more than I do any one else when it comes to advertising and trying to make a buck.
Sorry, should have quoted this in the thread above.

1. google " Polaris ps4 voa" a thread from Bob is the Oil Guy
2. Have a lab analysis done on some ps4 yourself. Maybe it will have different results than the test above. For me it's good enough.
 

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I looked on there and couldn't find it but it wouldn't let me do a search. Maybe need to be a member? I am raking leaves today and will look some more later.

I am not a polaris oil fanboy, but I haven't seen anyone offer anything except the 'polaris oil is junk etc' type of stuff and I just want to see some actual facts to back up the rhetoric. I don't use polaris oil in my older machines but I have new 570 engine and I am researching AGAIN on finding some facts for something to use after warranty. I also think that polaris oil is over priced and that is the reason for my search.

I am contemplating an analysis of the oil in my 570. It turned really black and I changed it initially at 9.5 hours and it turned black again almost immediately. I can't find any air leaks in the intake, nothing indicates anything wrong.
If I don't come up with any numbers I will probably bite the bullet and use the old standby Rotella T-6 like I do in everything else.
 

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Okay, found it. Thanks for the info. I will check it out later. Doesn't look impressive on initial glance.
 

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I found another link on that web site with some numbers that should answer some questions. Looks like I will stick with cheap Rotella T-6.

Polaris ATV Forum - View Single Post - OEM VS Aftermarket

VOA = Virgin Oil Analysis

VOA on Polaris PS-4 0W50 Polaris PS-4 | Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO | Bob Is The Oil Guy

VOA on Shell Rotella T6 0W40 Shell Rotella T6 5w40 VOA | Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO | Bob Is The Oil Guy

VOA on Mobil 1 0W50 Mobile 1 5W50 VOA | Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO | Bob Is The Oil Guy

VOA on Schaeffer's S9000 5W40 VOA - Schaeffer S9000 5w40 (CJ-4) - TDIClub Forums

IMHO Schaeffer's S9000 5W40 is some of the best stuff out there. Since it meets VW 505.01 and beats the old Castrol TXT zinc levels I've started running it in my Jetta PD TDI. Maybe I'll get my poorly designed camshaft exhaust lobes past 100,000 miles.


Shell Rotella T6 0W40 or Mobil 1 0W50 Synthetics are easily much better oils than the Polaris PS-4 branded oil and you can't beat the price and availability.
 

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Well, it looks like I might have killed this thread, but, I have been researching this oil deal all evening and I have learned that there are more new questions that I didn't even know to ask.
Research reveals that the additive levels that show up on the VOA tests are not the only additives in new oil formulations and the additive concentration levels of the old standbys of zinc and phosphorus and moly are no longer a specific indicator of the effectiveness of the oils EP performance. Indeed, the very best (by a very wide margin) 5w-50 oil on the market by at least one indicator seems to be one of those pesky OEM spec'd oils for their series of high performance engines, and this oils Blackstone analysis additive levels are even more unremarkable than the PS-4 Polaris oil.

At this point I am wondering if all those times that I have heard of Polaris tech's saying "make sure you use Polaris oil" might be for a reason other than for the dealer to make more money.
Looks like I am back to square one because I am more confused than ever.

In real life use it probably doesn't make any difference at all but I really would like to know the truth about PS-4.

Some of you might already know this but I am just finding out that there is a new calcium based EP additive in use in some of these new oils.
 

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In real life use it probably doesn't make any difference at all but I really would like to know the truth about PS-4.
In actual day to day operations, I suspect that the differences between all the name brand oils are insignificant. As long as you use a quality synthetic with a winter weight appropriate for your environment, you will more than likely be just fine. If our engines had much tighter tolerances than what they have (e.g. Formula 1's), getting down to a microscopic analytical level may make more sense. Very seldom do I read about internal engine failures here and when I do, it seems they are more a result of dust/dirt ingestion (or neglect) - NO oil is going to save you from that! Zinc, phosphorus, calcium, or any other additive or even the new base oils made from natural gas ( Natural gas by the quart: Shell's new oil isn't crude - Houston Chronicle ) are probably not near as important as frequent oil changes and well filtered air coming into the combustion chamber. You can "analyze to paralyze" but in the end, I doubt that you will find an oil that so good, it will contribute to a 100,000 mile Polaris engine - the rest of the buggy is going to wear out long before that! I use Polaris oil in my Ranger/RZR (I stock up during the Black Friday sales) and Royal Purple in everything else because I trust them, but I doubt that either is 'better' than the other name-brand synthetics or will ensure that I will have no internal engine problems. Quite frankly (knock on wood), I've owned dozens of cars, trucks, tractors, etc and have never had to rebuild an engine (although I screwed up a Dodge truck once by using Slick 50!). Conversely, I've repaired/replaced a boat load of transmissions, alternators, and suspension parts.

I'm done chasing down the "Best Motor Oil" - just use something slippery and change it often!
My 2¢
 
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