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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:mad-new: okay guys need so help/advice. i have 2012 ranger 800 xp eps. i have to replace the front wheel bearings and i have got it all torn downa and have my new parts. the problem is that i cant get the "screws" as OEM Parts : Babbitts Polaris Parts House calls them out. i have had to put new stud in it before so i have taken them out before. now i have broken 4 t 40 impact sockets trying to get 2 out of the 4 bolts out. need the machine back up and running asap. where is the best place to buy the new hub and all that or does anyone have any ideas for me to try?

thanks ya'll, Merry Christmas, webb
 

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What screws are you referring to.....the ones that bolt the rotor to the hub? If so, why are you removing those to replace the bearings?
 

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ditto,

no need to remove the screws that attach the rotor to the hub if all you're doing is wheel bearing replacement

Now, if your wheel bearing has failed to the point where the hub has been damaged and you must replace the hub, you will need to remove the rotor.

before I remove the torx screws on the rare occasion I have to replace a hub, I take a brass punch and give all 4 of them a good wack before I try and loosen them. Usually helps. never had one I couldn't get out.

if you strip the head out, you may have to weld a nut to the bolt head and then turn it out with a wrench. of course you would need to replace that torx head bolt. In a pinch I suppose you could use a metric bolt and a washer if it would clear the spindle assembly providing you still had the other 3 tapered bolts in to center the rotor.

Merry Christmas!
 

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If you need to remove the rotor bolts, heat them with a torch. They are coated with Loktite and the heat will break them loose.
 

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Are they torx though? Sure they arent Allen head screws?? i looked on parts diagram, they're the counter sunk type. Must be tight tolerances on the back of that particular model. If they're loctited, they'll be a bear to get out. IF NOT, chanced are they are just stuck tight in the aluminum hub (corrosion between steel and aluminum is a bugger..) CHANCES ARE...ya could drill the head off them and then grab em with vise grips and back em out, Or drill em deep enough to get a small easy out in them and back em out.. If you do drill them, it wouldnt be a bad idea to use a tiny pilot bit to drill the WHOLE WAY through the bolt in all honesty if you feel confident enough to do that. If you do take that route, you could then drill with a slightly larger bit to remove the head. Do this to all 4 and you'll have the rotor off. (if thas your goal..IF you hub is messed up...otherwise, just leave the rotor on the hub...and remove the caliper instead?) ANYHOW, once heads are removed, and your tiny pilot hole is still there, id attempt to back em out with an easy out OR a pair of visegrips. IF the pliers wont do the job, then you'll need to resort to some heat to loosen the loctite, and then you shouldnt have an issue removing the remaining stud.

Once removed, id also tap holes to remove any existing loctite, clean the threads of burrs, and when re-installing, put a small dab of blue loctite back on em. (i personally done use much loctite unless its internal stuff...jsut ME though..)

DID some quick research, according to info i dug up, it says they are infact a torx..i appologize.
 

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He has to mean torx like all the rotors have on the 2008 and up. To get quick parts Rocky mountain has them. Hub is about $40 rotor $75 if I recall they also sell the new tor bolts/screws you need to secure the new rotor they are like $3 each you need 4. they overnight ship for $20-27.. even deliver on saturday
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes sorry ment torx. and thanks for all the info im getting ready to work on it now. ive got it up on the lift and its getting apart today hahah.. thanks again everyone.
 
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