PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know "another wheel and tire post" but I have searched and searched without much luck finding answers. I do understand I need to do my research and am in the process of doing that. But I have a couple questions I cant find answers on. Seems like it would be nice to have this info in one place... like a sticky thread with some basic info or better yet a picture thread with setup details.

My goal; gain some height and performance with a bigger tire, probably 29" max for me. My use is mostly utility work around the property and some trail riding. I am not interested in the mud pits, portals or tractor tires (but would like to go see an event :)).

When buying a new set of wheels and tires, is it better to go with skinnies in the front and wides in the rear, or the same width front and rear?
Why? I know the obvious ability to rotate front to rear, but is there other reasons?
If you run wides all the way around do you need a special offset wheel up front to keep the track width the same? (I need to research this because factory track width may differ front to rear)

Then there is diameter... with the tire heights used on these SxS I think a 12" wheel is a little small, I do like some sidewall height because they just ride better (I still run 12" wheels on my ATVs because of this, 25 or 26" inch tire on a 14" wheel rides like crap). So 14" minimum diameter with 27 to 30" tire sounds like a good match. I see a lot of 15" diameter wheels out there too, but I think most people are running those so they can run DOT approved tires, am I right?

Tires, there are so many options it is mind blowing. I get that tires are "use" specific, but there should be a few brands/models that are currently popular and most common. What are those?

Tire size, from what I have read, a tire that measures around 29" should clear with no rubbing using stock position a-arms and standard offset wheels. My plan is to stay within this limit. From what I read, the limiting factor is the distance from the front spindle to the "firewall", to go any bigger than 29" you have to move the spindle forward with aftermarket a-arms. So a lift does nothing for gaining tire size, but will of course add some ground clearance.

Sorry for the long post, I started to ramble a bit... I have extensive experience with ATVs and Jeeps, but this is my first SXS. My Ranger is a 2020 XP1000 3 seater in Camo. Honestly, right now I like the factory '21 and up 14" wheel, pretty sure it is a Pro Armor Buckle wheel. I don't see many aftermarket wheels that look better in my opinion. I may just throw a set of 29s on them and stay with the skinnies up front and wides in the rear, then crank up the shock preload a little to level it out. aftermarket shocks are an option (but it actually rides pretty good with the stock shocks).

Hoping some of you guys will post pictures of your rides with details on wheel size/offset, tire make/model/size and if you are using a lift of any kind.
 

·
Registered
'21 Northstar premium
Joined
·
70 Posts
I know "another wheel and tire post" but I have searched and searched without much luck finding answers. I do understand I need to do my research and am in the process of doing that. But I have a couple questions I cant find answers on. Seems like it would be nice to have this info in one place... like a sticky thread with some basic info or better yet a picture thread with setup details.

My goal; gain some height and performance with a bigger tire, probably 29" max for me. My use is mostly utility work around the property and some trail riding. I am not interested in the mud pits, portals or tractor tires (but would like to go see an event :)).

When buying a new set of wheels and tires, is it better to go with skinnies in the front and wides in the rear, or the same width front and rear?
Why? I know the obvious ability to rotate front to rear, but is there other reasons?
If you run wides all the way around do you need a special offset wheel up front to keep the track width the same? (I need to research this because factory track width may differ front to rear)

Then there is diameter... with the tire heights used on these SxS I think a 12" wheel is a little small, I do like some sidewall height because they just ride better (I still run 12" wheels on my ATVs because of this, 25 or 26" inch tire on a 14" wheel rides like crap). So 14" minimum diameter with 27 to 30" tire sounds like a good match. I see a lot of 15" diameter wheels out there too, but I think most people are running those so they can run DOT approved tires, am I right?

Tires, there are so many options it is mind blowing. I get that tires are "use" specific, but there should be a few brands/models that are currently popular and most common. What are those?

Tire size, from what I have read, a tire that measures around 29" should clear with no rubbing using stock position a-arms and standard offset wheels. My plan is to stay within this limit. From what I read, the limiting factor is the distance from the front spindle to the "firewall", to go any bigger than 29" you have to move the spindle forward with aftermarket a-arms. So a lift does nothing for gaining tire size, but will of course add some ground clearance.

Sorry for the long post, I started to ramble a bit... I have extensive experience with ATVs and Jeeps, but this is my first SXS. My Ranger is a 2020 XP1000 3 seater in Camo. Honestly, right now I like the factory '21 and up 14" wheel, pretty sure it is a Pro Armor Buckle wheel. I don't see many aftermarket wheels that look better in my opinion. I may just throw a set of 29s on them and stay with the skinnies up front and wides in the rear, then crank up the shock preload a little to level it out. aftermarket shocks are an option (but it actually rides pretty good with the stock shocks).

Hoping some of you guys will post pictures of your rides with details on wheel size/offset, tire make/model/size and if you are using a lift of any kind.
I am running 29 inch BFG KM3 tires on my 21 NS. I stayed with 9 inch fronts and 11 inch rears because the front and rear wheels have different widths and offsets so I didn't have to buy new wheels. I agree, the stock wheels look fine to me. I am also running a 2inch lift in the front only, and I put on 1 inch wheel spacers all around. I like this setup a lot. The tires do everything I need them to do but I doubt they would be great mud tires. I stay out of deep mud also.
Tire Wheel Sky Vehicle Car
I
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,945 Posts
Pay attention to tire weight before dropping the cash. Rotating mass and unsprung weight is real.

Rotating mass robs power, harder on the belt...and unsprung weight is harder on bearings, bushings and the shocks aren't sprung for them.

Seems like in the last couple years all terrain truck tires are the craze.

The KM3 above is a 42lb tire in the rear. Where as a maxxis carnivore or Rampage....similar tread design. Weights in at 33lbs in a 30" tire.

Something everyone should consider before making the final decision. And one of the first things I look at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Can't help you with sizing on your 1000 as mine is a full size 570. Right after purchase in 2020 I swapped the stock tires for Maxxis Ceros tires. Six ply and similar weight or slightly heavier than the stock tires but the lugs are much wider to reduce wear and increase traction on hard surfaces. The lugs are spaced far apart to retain good traction when off road in soft stuff.

After 1800 miles no sign of wear, never been stuck, and great traction and handling at 50mph on pavement. This is on a full size six seat Ranger with steel and glass full cab from Hard Cabs. And most of the pavement miles packed with four "full figured" adults and supplies for a ten hour ride.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Pay attention to tire weight before dropping the cash. Rotating mass and unsprung weight is real.

Rotating mass robs power, harder on the belt...and unsprung weight is harder on bearings, bushings and the shocks aren't sprung for them.

Seems like in the last couple years all terrain truck tires are the craze.

The KM3 above is a 42lb tire in the rear. Where as a maxxis carnivore or Rampage....similar tread design. Weights in at 33lbs in a 30" tire.

Something everyone should consider before making the final decision. And one of the first things I look at.
.


I agree 100%

I am putting together a spreadsheet for tires with size, actual dimension and weight.

As of now looks like the 28" Carnivores are the way to go for me. I will say this about them though, they look skinny. Whatever length in contact patch they gain by having a larger circumference they loose in width, factory 11s in the rear are wide!

I need to figure they wheels out. Everyone has 14x7 with 4+3 (or 5+2 with spacer). I like the "lip" on the wider wheels or negative offset wheels. Trying to find a picture of the 28" carnivores on a 8 or 9" wheel. I may be able to run the 30" tire on a wider wheel because it will loose some height due to the wider wheel, just not sure I want to risk it. I have reasons for not wanting to go to forward a-arms.

There are some killer wheels out there... Douglas and HiPer wheels look crazy cool but come with a wicked price tag. I have run these brands on race quads back in the day...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,945 Posts
Here are my 30's on 7" rims. I run 10lbs in them.

They have been a really good tire and are wearing well with a lot of backroads and some pavement miles. About 2500 on these so far.
I'll probably try the rampage when these finally wear out. I rarely have to deal with deep mud.

It guess it takes a few to get used to not seeing a fat tire on the back. I also run 1" spacers on the rear only brings the rear tires out About a 1/4" farther than the fronts.

Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,945 Posts
Oh....and the carnivores run true to size. At least they did when I bought mine a couple years ago. They rubbed at full lock with a mma lift. I hear the 28's run a smidge taller than 28.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh....and the carnivores run true to size. At least they did when I bought mine a couple years ago. They rubbed at full lock with a mma lift. I hear the 28's run a smidge taller than 28.

So I have gone back and made more general searches (like just searching "tire") here and on the other forum... for some reason I like this site better! You and Mossy700 have a good many posts on this exact subject with lots of pictures and info, so thank you both.

Tires, I am pretty much set on the 28" Carnivores, but I will revisit the Rampage option before I pull the trigger on this. I am a Maxxis tire fan and have them on my Brute Force.

Wheels... I will do the "square" set for sure, with front and rear the same size. I have always done this on 4X4 ATVs, just wasn't sure about doing it on a SxS. Everyone is doing it so it's the thing to do. I am not going to invest in high dollar wheels like I have in the past on my race quads. I just started searching google images for wheels and found some that I liked, the MSA F2 Forged, but they are no longer available. So using a different tactic to search, I think I have narrowed it down to System3 SB-4, cool looking wheel but these are a single beadlock style. I have had issues in the past with beadlocks not holding air reliably, so not sure I will go that way. I don't really "need" a beadlock on the Ranger. I also like the ITP Hurricane and Vision has a wheel similar to the Hurricane too. All in 14x7 with 4+3. I did find a 14x8 wheel in 4+4 but cant find info on anyone with a Ranger running 8" wide wheels up front and I really don't want to be the test dummy on it.

Your Ranger looks fantastic. You have good taste and some photography skills too. Portals are super cool, super pricey but just add another maintenance issue to the whole equation for me. Portals actually look like an excellent way to gain lift, and gear reduction if you need it (IE Unimog?). If I do anything for additional lift other than just cranking some preload into the factory shocks, I'll probably do 814 or some other aftermarket shocks. But do plan on researching aftermarket spring options. Probably try to keep lift to a minimum, this is a "work" tool for me so I don't need to accelerate wear and tear on driveline components. Thanks for the tip about the spacer in the rear.

Could use some direction on where to buy. I'll check for supporting vendors here and will also give my local shop a call.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,945 Posts
You should be good with a 4+4. on a 4+3 the 4 is inboard. Would probably look pretty cool too!

I recently sold the portals. Not that I didn't like them. Just wouldn't fit in my enclosed trailer without compressing the suspension. You do have to beef the machine up to handle them and remain reliable.

I think sticking to 28's is a good decision. I could tell the difference in the giddy up from the jump to 30's

I just ordered a set of 814's. I'm currently running Elka stage 2's. I'm curious as how they will compare.

Post some pics up when you get your new shoes!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ridesdirt

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jay B, totally off subject here and I hope you come back to check this post... Is that a windmill you are parked next to? Pretty sure it is, man I would love to have a windmill on my property. I search craigslist and market place every once in a while hoping to find one I would be willing to spend the money on... they are expensive.

Also, digging the grain bin in the background, hoping to find one of those too. Have you seen the outdoor living areas people are turning those in to? There are some very creative people out there who have done some awesome things with them. Of course if you are on a working farm, you got better use of a grain bin than using it for shade... lol
 

·
Registered
'21 Northstar premium
Joined
·
70 Posts
Jay B, totally off subject here and I hope you come back to check this post... Is that a windmill you are parked next to? Pretty sure it is, man I would love to have a windmill on my property. I search craigslist and market place every once in a while hoping to find one I would be willing to spend the money on... they are expensive.

Also, digging the grain bin in the background, hoping to find one of those too. Have you seen the outdoor living areas people are turning those in to? There are some very creative people out there who have done some awesome things with them. Of course if you are on a working farm, you got better use of a grain bin than using it for shade... lol
Yes that's most of a windmill. It's all there except for the actual wheel. I can't decide whether to keep it or not. I'm semi retired from farming and I plan on building a shop in that area come spring. There's a place about 40 miles from here that restores windmills if I decide to keep it. As for the bin, it's destined to hold soybeans for many more years yet. I use a smaller that is useless to me as a storage shed but I have seen some pretty cool party shelters built out of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes that's most of a windmill. It's all there except for the actual wheel. I can't decide whether to keep it or not. I'm semi retired from farming and I plan on building a shop in that area come spring. There's a place about 40 miles from here that restores windmills if I decide to keep it. As for the bin, it's destined to hold soybeans for many more years yet. I use a smaller that is useless to me as a storage shed but I have seen some pretty cool party shelters built out of them.
(y)
good stuff, take care.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the wheels and tires...

2020 XP1000 Ranger - 28x10x14 Maxxis Carnivore on Raceline Black Mombas 14x7 with 4+3 spacing. I did put 1" spacers on the rear. For those that don't know, the rear track is narrower than the front, factory wheels are different front to rear to account for this. Note, the factory studs are longer than 1", you will have to grind the back side of your wheel, or grind down the factory wheel studs to run a 1" spacer. If you want to avoid this just get 1.5" spacers.

Tires measure true to size and they easily clear the skip plate. My set of 28"s measure 28". I didn't measure the clearance but looked to be over an inch. I actually think 30s may clear, but others say they rub. I only have a few miles on them, but can say they ride a lot better than the stock tires. Kind of surprised me by how much different/better they ride, I assume because they are radials. I noticed no loss in power. Did gain a little lift over the stock setup, but some of that was due to bumping the shock springs to the middle position. I think the rear hitch was around 12.75", front measured 13.5" to bottom of skid plate after I settled the suspension. Roof height is around 6'5"-6'6".

Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I need to throw in a big shout out to Matthew at ATV Outfitters.

I live fairly close to this business, about an hour and a half away. ATV Outfitters is not open on Saturday, but Matthew brought my order home and met me on a Saturday so I could pick it up. Look, take pricing out of the picture for a minute... the owner of the business met me during off hours so I could get my order. That is customer service at a new level and adds tremendous value. Note, the website is weak!!! If you want pricing from them, pick up the phone and call. Try to get that service anywhere else.

ATV Outfitters, good people and large in stock inventory. Two big thumbs up!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top