PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was not going to type all this because it is long but since the Duraclutch is coming out for the RZR and depending on when you read this it may already be out.

First off I can't say application enough, the application has to fit for this to even be worth talking about. Comparing a RZR and what it is intended to do with a Ranger and clutching is nothing alike except in very few cases.

Clutching application example:

A guy called and bought a Duraclutch for his ranger yesterday, his application was pulling trees around all the time, big heavy loads in slow speeds and he was burning belts up. His application is perfect for a Duraclutch. Why? Slow heavy loads and the belt will not slip with the duraclutch.

Now to why tuning is not that important with the Duraclutch and I want to say the tuning is not off by no means I am just explaining why it is not that important to a Duraclutch in a application specific use.

Now on that note, you can't just throw everyone in one group RZR and Ranger for any kind of riding and say this one set up fits, it does not. If that was the case then we would never sell a clutch kit.

Clutch tuning is extremely important to a RZR owner who is a higher speed trail rider, duner, or any activity where acceleration from say 30 mph to top speed is concerned because we need the engine to be running where it makes the most power during that section of the shift phase. Belt slippage is never a issue in these speeds and the belt will not slip in this area unless you have a physical issue with one or more components in the clutch.

This also applies to anyone with a Ranger who does the above but, that person is in the extreme minority, Ranger guys are not normally running around in the dunes or doing high speed trail riding and I said not normally does not mean someone somewhere is not doing exactly that in a ranger.

So clutch tuning to those guys is important for one purpose and that is simply performance.

Another application for clutch tuning that is important to both Ranger and RZR, if you have the big tires like say 30" tires, first off you are not racing. FYI, this does not apply so much to a XP 1000 that comes with that size tire. Anyway I mean the mud guys and slow riders anyway for this application. So this group needs some clutch tuning to give the belt more grip more than anything. If you are moving slow say under 30 mph then the belt is still at the bottom of the primary clutch in low gear if you will or midway up it and you have gearing to aid in giving you the power you need. So these guys need belt grip more than anything with their clutch kits, hence stiffer secondary springs, lighter primary springs and the appropriate flyweight to overcome those and get it in the right RPM range. But more than anything to help stop belt slippage because the way the clutch works coming in and grabbing the belt, you need to make it do it better and grab better.

Once again application application application!!!

So enter in the Duraclutch. People who in my opinion have no use for it is someone who stays above 40 to 50 mph, drives fast and jumps. Jumping with any clutch system with any kind of engine braking gets hairy when you land it will throw you through the windshield hence the reason we made a less ebs helix and a non ebs helix for the XP 900 RZR.

So who does need it? Ranger guys with any size tire that is a heavy load, ranger crew guy with all those seats and bed filled, people using it for work pulling logs as mentioned, a mud guy plowing through the mud, a rock crawler easing through rocks, a snow plower pushing snow. Everyone of those applications more than anything need belt grip and these are the guys burning belts in Rangers not trail guys with stock or near stock sized tires. So to this group of people tuning of the clutch is just not that important and once again I want to make it clear, no one is saying the tune is bad or off I am just saying to the group of Ranger owners the clutch is intended for the tuning side is not that important because we have taken belt slip out of the equation period. So the Ranger guy with stock tires or near stock tires who ride trails fast etc, you will not benefit that much from having one of these Duraclutches, it is not really intended for you, you may or may not be better off with a clutch kit for what you are doing.

RZR owners: Who needs it, more or less the same group of people in the Ranger group. Yes your vehicle is capable of going 75 to 80 and yes it will still do that after a Duraclutch but for the exact same reasons as the Ranger guys, if you spend all your time 40 mph and above, trail riding, duning racing etc, this has no application, no more than a guy cross country racing needs a winch, he is not going to get stuck and if he does he is out of the race anyway, no application for the winch there and that group of people does not need this Duraclutch.

So what group of RZR owners need it? The same large tire, heavy load mud guys and rock crawlers or someone who trail rides at slower speeds and wants the engine braking. RZR owners do NOT make long jumps with this system, you will hate it and may tear something up.

There is no clutch or clutch kit that can compete with the Duraclutch in the belt grip area, none. Come close!? Yes but not compete and the reason is simple. Any time you have a clutch system that comes in and grabs the belt to get going the belt is always slipping to get going, you put heavy loads on it, it slips more, with the right set up and foot control you can lessen it but you can't stop it and you WILL get a belt more often than not.

The Duraclutch does not physically work like that, the belt is already in contact with the clutch and tight, so no slippage occurs, the slippage to get going is done in the two centrifugal clutches built into this clutch which are designed to slip. This clutch engages at a lower RPM than stock and locks up quickly and doing it with no belt slippage. I was testing this system on a RZR 900 XP, in low range going up a steep pond dam at 2400 to 3000 rpm, tires barely turning, speedo was not moving and no belt burn no slipping etc, it simply crawled right up the hill, NO other system regardless of how it is set up can do that. I was almost to stop climbing up and barely touching the gas on purpose to make it work and try to make it slip, none occurred.

Then the engine braking, turned around and went back down, same thing barely crept down on the engine braking which with this system you have until you stop.

While on engine braking, this has the most and best engine braking there is, you can even pull start your vehicle with this clutch in it. But you have to have a need for it and if you are once again a fast guy or a jumper you probably will not need this system and it is NOT available without it.

This was inspired from different people who do not have one, not driven a vehicle with one in it and then generalizing the use of it when a general purpose for every one mentality does not fit this, it is not for everyone but the ones who it is for, it works better than anything available today.

Also to further the argument about tuning, not one and I mean not one person who has one has said, "boy I wish it worked better for me when I drive fast" nor has anyone had anything negative to say about it at all that has one. The only people who say anything negative are the people who have not driven one, don't own one or who simply don't understand any of what I mentioned above.

I love to use this analogy, you never see any Monster Trucks racing in NASCAR races and you never see NASCAR cars in monster truck races, why not? Application just cause both are races does not mean the same set up works in both places same as this. There is NO does everything great clutch set up period.

So if you don't have a application for this then don't look down on it, just accept you don't need it and it does not work for you.

If you have any questions feel free to call me

Todd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Since I already have a Engine braking ,do I need the Entire Clutch Kit,

Here is how I Ride,,,Hunting going slow ,,through ditches ,over rocks up steep hills as slow as Possible,,I do pull things But not heavy logs mostly Trailers ,Where I get belt slip is trying to go up a steep hill very slow and Quiet ,that might have a rock to slide over etc,deep Thick mud where A Dozer just went through in front of me ,, I Hate mud don't look for it ,but some times it the only way .


Low Range ,,runs the RPMs up and gets to loud so I catch myself in High more than I should trying to. Be Quieter .

Any way enough rambling maybe you get the idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,095 Posts
The system is a whole new primary and secondary. Can't use just half.

But sounds like it will perfect for what your describing. And where the Dura clutch shines the most.

I'm very tempted myself. But I'm in the 30+ mph club.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
It sounds hood to me,
I drive mostly in the woods in close Quarters,slow and quiet as possible,,I still need the top speed to get from Trailer to hunting ,quickly when I guide I want my Customers In the woods,and sometime need to move from one location to another quickly,especially in a Turkey season,South Eastern Ky is Steep, Rough ,Rocky ,and big.going from slow to Fast without using low gear ,would be great,although I know Low is sometimes A have to.
Me I have been riding Polaris since 1992,and every time I ride ,seem like I find More productive way of using them.I have owned 4-ATVs and on My 4th side by side.
I Love this Forum . It just gets better.
Thanks for any and all help,,
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since I already have a Engine braking ,do I need the Entire Clutch Kit,

Here is how I Ride,,,Hunting going slow ,,through ditches ,over rocks up steep hills as slow as Possible,,I do pull things But not heavy logs mostly Trailers ,Where I get belt slip is trying to go up a steep hill very slow and Quiet ,that might have a rock to slide over etc,deep Thick mud where A Dozer just went through in front of me ,, I Hate mud don't look for it ,but some times it the only way .


Low Range ,,runs the RPMs up and gets to loud so I catch myself in High more than I should trying to. Be Quieter .

Any way enough rambling maybe you get the idea.
Yeah, it all comes as a complete kit.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The system is a whole new primary and secondary. Can't use just half.

But sounds like it will perfect for what your describing. And where the Dura clutch shines the most.

I'm very tempted myself. But I'm in the 30+ mph club.
No one said you can't go over 30 or any bad affects, my duraclutch ranger runs 61 mph

That parts was more meant for the RZR guys,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,095 Posts
No one said you can't go over 30 or any bad affects, my duraclutch ranger runs 61 mph

That parts was more meant for the RZR guys,
Wasn't implying there were ill effects above 30. Just where I spend most of my time riding and wouldn't reap the benefits of the clutch system as much as the original poster. But I'm still tempted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
I just installed a duraclutch set up on a friend of mine's Ranger 900 Crew. I wasn't sold on it at first but it is amazing at how smooth it engages. I would say it's similar to your vehicle with a auto trans. The only indicator that it has engaged is the movement in the ranger. Also the engine braking is very nice much better than what is available from polaris it's just enough. I feel the polaris engine brake can be overwhelming at times. Overall we were both very impressed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wasn't implying there were ill effects above 30. Just where I spend most of my time riding and wouldn't reap the benefits of the clutch system as much as the original poster. But I'm still tempted!
People want to put a guy selling stuff on the spot sometimes and I don't mean you but that was the reason for this article, me personally unless I was jumping a Ranger which I don't think anyone is, I can't see a reason any Ranger should not have one. Now the RZR would be different and that is because of how the group mentioned drives.

Also the purpose of it was to say what need was or who was the best candidate

Todd
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just installed a duraclutch set up on a friend of mine's Ranger 900 Crew. I wasn't sold on it at first but it is amazing at how smooth it engages. I would say it's similar to your vehicle with a auto trans. The only indicator that it has engaged is the movement in the ranger. Also the engine braking is very nice much better than what is available from polaris it's just enough. I feel the polaris engine brake can be overwhelming at times. Overall we were both very impressed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like everyone else who actually has one, loves it!!!

Glad it works for you guys!!!

Todd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,607 Posts
This mirrors what I had said previously about the Duraclutch system. It appears to be good for the go slower, work your Ranger , looking for a dependable clutch system crowd. I'd say that's a good portion of the Ranger crowd.
The go fast performance, racing type guys won't benefit as much from the system. Those guys would likely want to run something like a Team clutch where you can fine tune it to keep it at optimum engine rpm.
I don't think there's much doubt that belt life would be much better with the Duraclutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Todd
As I understand it with the Dura Clutch,,,If I have 27 in tires now and later decide to lift and go with 30 in ,,I want need Clutch work,,and I want have the Slow Engagement or the slight loping I have with the Factory,,,

Question,,,what about the Very slight pause and Clank When I shift gears,,Since the Dura Clutch stays Engaged I assume that don't happen.
900--Ranger XP 2014

Sorry for all the Questions ,,But I learned Years ago the ONLY Stupid Question is the one not ask,,LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,067 Posts
Tim is right! That all goes away. The Duraclutch is incredible. You can inch along and feels like an automatic Transmission. For what I do it has been the best upgrade I could have done to my 900. No more belt squeal when encountering steep terrain, etc, or slapping, clunk on engagement. The engine braking I really appreciate while descending steep slopes we have here in the southwest. I hardly ever have to touch the brakes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Thanks ,,guy's ,,you have been a lot of help,
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Todd
As I understand it with the Dura Clutch,,,If I have 27 in tires now and later decide to lift and go with 30 in ,,I want need Clutch work,,and I want have the Slow Engagement or the slight loping I have with the Factory,,,

Question,,,what about the Very slight pause and Clank When I shift gears,,Since the Dura Clutch stays Engaged I assume that don't happen.
900--Ranger XP 2014

Sorry for all the Questions ,,But I learned Years ago the ONLY Stupid Question is the one not ask,,LOL
Funny I was going to say the clanking won't go away, we must be talking about two different clanks. Yesterday I got on mine, reversed then forward and got a slight clank but that is gear lash and nothing will fix that.

And yes you was right about changing the clutch tuning between tires. But keep in mind, in this statement we are not talking about the performance go fast guy we are still talking about the guy who can benefit from this clutch.

Todd
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This mirrors what I had said previously about the Duraclutch system. It appears to be good for the go slower, work your Ranger , looking for a dependable clutch system crowd. I'd say that's a good portion of the Ranger crowd.
The go fast performance, racing type guys won't benefit as much from the system. Those guys would likely want to run something like a Team clutch where you can fine tune it to keep it at optimum engine rpm.
I don't think there's much doubt that belt life would be much better with the Duraclutch.
I will agree with what you said about the performance guys in this.

To clarify a couple other items, a depending on what you are calling a Team clutch or which part, the Team Primary is not tunable, it does not come with weights so whatever clutch kit you have in it would be tunable and there is no performance gain at all switching from the stock primary to the Team primary, it is just HD and will last longer.

Other thing is belt lasting longer with duraclutch. It may or may not last longer in the wear department but hands down it will last longer in the burn belt department, you no longer will burn one.

In RZR's people rarely wear a belt out, they break it or shred it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,607 Posts
I will agree with what you said about the performance guys in this.

To clarify a couple other items, a depending on what you are calling a Team clutch or which part, the Team Primary is not tunable, it does not come with weights so whatever clutch kit you have in it would be tunable and there is no performance gain at all switching from the stock primary to the Team primary, it is just HD and will last longer.

Other thing is belt lasting longer with duraclutch. It may or may not last longer in the wear department but hands down it will last longer in the burn belt department, you no longer will burn one.

In RZR's people rarely wear a belt out, they break it or shred it.
I agree with everything you just said, but to clarify, the only tuning you can do to the Team primary is with springs and new adjustable weights. The factory Team primary has a history of poor lifespan due to bearing failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,067 Posts
Curt, that bearing issue has always been a complaint of mine on the OEM and after market clutches I have looked at previously. The Duraclutch eliminates that plus I get all the performance features I wanted out of a after market clutch for what I do. :fat:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,607 Posts
Curt, that bearing issue has always been a complaint of mine on the OEM and after market clutches I have looked at previously. The Duraclutch eliminates that plus I get all the performance features I wanted out of a after market clutch for what I do. :fat:
Ken, I agree, for the type of riding you do the Duraclutch should be perfect.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top