[battledonkey]

A while back, because I'm just a savvy guy and make awesome decisions, I bought a brand new Champion 40252 4500lb winch for $50 from a guy at work (http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Equipment-40252-Universal/product-reviews/B002Q24PBU). It sat under my work bench forever and then I bought my 570 crew and started gathering the parts to install it. I bought a KFI mounting plate, a KFI contactor, and an ebay dash switch.

The winch itself came with the giant handlebar mounted 2 button switch but I don't want anything to do with that. The dash switch I got is the 3 position switch (all the way up is winch out, the middle is neutral, and all the way down is winch in. It has 7 prongs on the back. There's a light in the switch for each direction (so winch out lights up, neutral does not, and winch in lights up).

How the heck do you wire this thing up?? I've seen diagrams that show a general idea but didn't seem to find much in the way of write ups and how tos.

Thanks!

Doyle

 

[fswan]

Unless you can get a schematic from Champion (maybe on their website?) you are going to have to do some detective work. If your switch is an OTRATTW type, then they have the schematics for them - if it looks like an OTRATTW, it's probably the same wiring scheme. Does it have a number on it? Don't be too quick to whack off the handle bar switch, you may need it to determine which wire goes where on the new switch. If you can't get the Champion harness schematic, I see a lot of meter work in your future!

 

[HRTKD]

Is the switch working through a relay? I'm not sure you can run a winch through a regular switch. Forde will know this way better than I would.

 

[fswan]

Is the switch working through a relay? I'm not sure you can run a winch through a regular switch. Forde will know this way better than I would.

Yeah, Jim, the contactor is actually a big relay. The wires that go to dash/handlebar/remote/ and wireless switches are actually handling very little voltage - all the big stuff is going on in the contactor!

 

[HRTKD]

Ok, ignore my ramblings then.

 

[yooper265]

Without seeing the switch it sounds like its a dpdt with the 7th terminal for a neutral to power the internal ind lights . 12volt positive should go to the center on one side , the other two terminals { same side as center positive } go to the in / out posts on the KFI contactor you bought . The seventh terminal on the switch should go to a negative wire for the light inside the switch . Can you post a picture of the backside of the switch ?

 

[dstrbdXP-AK]

This should help.

 

[battledonkey]

This is what the back of the switch looks like. I'm not at home to take a picture myself but this is pretty much identical. The only thing I specifically remember is that the upper right is 7 and the upper left that is blank is 8.

 

[yooper265]

According to your picture V6D1K66B ,
step 1- Jump #1 to #8 , this will energize the light in up position , cable out
step 2- Wire from #1 to winch contactor "cable out" post
step 3- Jump #3 to #6 , this will energize the light in down position , cable in
step 4- Wire from #3 to winch contactor "cable in" post .
step 5- Wire from #7 to negative / ground , this is the common for the switch lights
step 6- Wire from #2 to key switched power, positive .

The way you drew the jumper wires for lights they would both be on all the time .

 

[battledonkey]

I don't have an 8th tab.

 

[yooper265]

According to the picture { V6D1K66B } you posted one of the tabs should be numbered #8 .

 

[battledonkey]

This is what the back of the switch looks like. I'm not at home to take a picture myself but this is pretty much identical. The only thing I specifically remember is that the upper right is 7 and the upper left that is blank is 8.

According to the picture { V6D1K66B } you posted one of the tabs should be numbered #8 .

1. There are only 7 tabs as described. (see pic)
2. The "blank" space is numbered 8 as described.

 

[yooper265]

Can only be one of two things , they sent you the wrong switch , the wiring diagram clearly shows a #8 terminal or the switch is defective { missing one of the stabs } , here's a link to the manufacturers spec sheet and they all show the eighth tab -

http://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series_Details_&_COS_a.pdf

 

[battledonkey]

That's not my picture of the switch. Thats a generic picture of the back of an identical switch. I feel fairly confident they assembled and shipped it with 7 tabs on purpose.

 

[yooper265]

ok , then the side with four tabs should be #'s 1-2-3-8 , check it when you get home ?

 

[battledonkey]

10 4 will do.

 

[yooper265]

One other possibility is that the wiring diagram is wrong and that 1 & 8 and 3 & 6 are jumped internally but your wiring diagram doesn't show that .

 

[battledonkey]

I found this:

 

[yooper265]

If thats your switch Hook #7 to vehicle negative/ ground , hook 12volt positive , switched to #2 and #'s 1 and 3 go to the in /out terminals on your winch contactor .
The lamps are internally wired , much easier with the right wiring diagram ! ositive:

 

[battledonkey]

So I guess the winch grounds through the contactor then correct? That's gonna be a completely other can of worms there. Haha.