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Can't wait to see this, Neal. Let me ask, what spray gun are you using and what PSI do you set for? Just curious is all. I've always wanted to mess around with spraying my woodworking finishes. I have a cheap HVLP system I bought from Rockler that I don't like. It doesn't atomize the finish enough. I've tried all sorts of viscosities and still not happy with the results. I'm interested in your input.
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Randy,
The gun I use for base/clearcoat is a Sata in which I handle and care for much you would a pistol. It was the best money could buy ten years ago. I use a Star for primer and paints that do not need the perfect pattern. I should also add the cheap Star brand gun puts down a very nice pattern and I also have bigger orifice tips that make it capable of clear urethane's such for wood projects. I have watched professional finishing contractors that spray all the trim in houses and always wanted to try it.
The correct pressure (on any gun) for base coat is 30-40 PSI, clear coats can be cranked up as high as 60 to flash a larger area. For me, the biggest challenge to spraying auto paint is creating the correct conditions and making sure I mix it correctly. I drove to two different paint stores Thursday just to make sure I was on the right track how to mix the catalyst. The Polaris paint supplier advised me to use epoxy primer which was a first and rather costly, $40 for a quart and I get a discount. Epoxy is un-effected by conditions so I busted my butt to do about eight hours of prep work and sprayed the primer in the very hot humid weather Friday as they predicted lower temps and humidity for Saturday. It payed off as the results of the finish may be the best I ever done :lol:.
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I wasn't concerned about dirt on the roll barrs and nerf bars so I hung them outside. Painting items like this are the most challenging items to spray. Easy to get a run but I done well.
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Notice the shine:
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I painted early in the morning yesterday for best conditions plus we we had plans to head to Amish area to pick up a new swing. About one hours after the last layer of clear coat is applied the masking tape needs to come off so Tam helped me complete it so we could head north.
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The gun I use for base/clearcoat is a Sata in which I handle and care for much you would a pistol. It was the best money could buy ten years ago. I use a Star for primer and paints that do not need the perfect pattern. I should also add the cheap Star brand gun puts down a very nice pattern and I also have bigger orifice tips that make it capable of clear urethane's such for wood projects. I have watched professional finishing contractors that spray all the trim in houses and always wanted to try it.
The correct pressure (on any gun) for base coat is 30-40 PSI, clear coats can be cranked up as high as 60 to flash a larger area. For me, the biggest challenge to spraying auto paint is creating the correct conditions and making sure I mix it correctly. I drove to two different paint stores Thursday just to make sure I was on the right track how to mix the catalyst. The Polaris paint supplier advised me to use epoxy primer which was a first and rather costly, $40 for a quart and I get a discount. Epoxy is un-effected by conditions so I busted my butt to do about eight hours of prep work and sprayed the primer in the very hot humid weather Friday as they predicted lower temps and humidity for Saturday. It payed off as the results of the finish may be the best I ever done :lol:.
I wasn't concerned about dirt on the roll barrs and nerf bars so I hung them outside. Painting items like this are the most challenging items to spray. Easy to get a run but I done well.
Notice the shine:
I painted early in the morning yesterday for best conditions plus we we had plans to head to Amish area to pick up a new swing. About one hours after the last layer of clear coat is applied the masking tape needs to come off so Tam helped me complete it so we could head north.
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10,843 Posts
Thanks for the education, Neal. At our old house, I had built a rough paint booth by suspending rolls of plastic sheeting from the ceiling. All I needed to do when I wanted to spray was to loosen the straps holding the four rolls (rolled around a wooden dowel) and down they would come to the floor, creating a small room. I might do something similar in my new shop if/when I learn enough and get the right equipment for spraying my finishes.
With woodworking, it depends SO much on what species of wood on which you're applying the finish. On some woods (e.g., oak, for example), the finishes go on so evenly that it almost doesn't matter how you apply it and it will come out looking good (assuming you don't apply it too thick, etc). But with other species (almost all soft woods, and some porous hard woods like maple) a spray finish is nearly imperative in order to get a professional appearance. That's why I like a hand-rubbed oil finish whenever feasible. Nothing (IMO) seems to bring out a wood's beauty more than a hand-rubbed oil finish, but in some cases I like to have something with the durability of a polyurethane finish. And that's best done by spraying.
With woodworking, it depends SO much on what species of wood on which you're applying the finish. On some woods (e.g., oak, for example), the finishes go on so evenly that it almost doesn't matter how you apply it and it will come out looking good (assuming you don't apply it too thick, etc). But with other species (almost all soft woods, and some porous hard woods like maple) a spray finish is nearly imperative in order to get a professional appearance. That's why I like a hand-rubbed oil finish whenever feasible. Nothing (IMO) seems to bring out a wood's beauty more than a hand-rubbed oil finish, but in some cases I like to have something with the durability of a polyurethane finish. And that's best done by spraying.
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