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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, first post here. I just bought my 16 ranger crew 900 a couple weeks ago. Im a total beginner when it comes to electricity/wiring. From reading over the forums, I've put together my wiring plan. I'd like to install a 6 fuse block that turns on w/ keyed power for my two light bars that I've ordered and also for radio and other accessories in the future.

I'm assuming that at least a couple things are wrong w/ the diagram but would love to hear what you guys have to say on what I need to change/adjust.
 

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Welcome to the forum maxwell. Be patient, some of the electrical gurus work the night shift.:encouragement:
 

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Hey Bud. Looks like a nice project. I have a '12 Ranger 800HD, a bit different than yours. I'm not a wiring Guru, but I do have basic electrical knowledge with a background in Appliance Repair. If you haven't come across it yet, I just did a wiring/lighting project of my own. It's in the "Member Inventions/Tips/Homemade Mods" heading, titled "Blue Sea #5025 Fuse Block install + Wiring progress". Lots of photos. I also have several Albums of the project with pictures in my profile. Welcome!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tip. Could you give me the link or specs on your inline fuse and the circuit breaker that you used? I've ordered the 80 amp relay that Forde has referenced in other forum posts.
 

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Is that relay used for either(inline fuse or circuit breaker)?
Hi Maxwell,

The Relay should be controlling the power to the lights and the relay is operated by the on/off switch. This keeps low current draw through the switch and the high current through the relay. Here is the schematic from my light bar harness that I bought from LAMPHUS. Hope this helps!!

Diagram Plan Text Drawing Technical drawing
 
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Since I was using Rigid LED lights, I was using the wiring harnesses that came with the lights. I have five sets of lights. Of those, the D2 Hyperspot, and the 6" E-series lights have a relay built into the harness. The Dually Spotlights, and the SR-M2 mini driving lights did not. I used OTRATTW switches with a lower independent LED that would illuminate when I switched the ignition switch on and light up with the dash. I wired that directly to the Bus Bar as the ACC. circuit with an in-line fuse. It was a section of Rigid harness with the in-line 15A fuse holder already on it. The Circuit Breaker was a 40A unit I got at Pep Boys, that was used in the positive side of the power feed line to the Fuse Box.
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When I looked again at your drawing above I noticed it said 80 Amp relay which controls the switched side of the power to that fuse block so your lights would turn off with the ignition. If you want to have the lights work with the ignition off, the schematic I provided will be what to use. You can get a low amp relay to control the lights at pretty much any auto parts store or through Amazon.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. And for the winch power. Do you have power running from battery to bus bar and then connecting power from winch to bus bar or do you have it running straight from winch to battery?
 

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Thanks guys. And for the winch power. Do you have power running from battery to bus bar and then connecting power from winch to bus bar or do you have it running straight from winch to battery?
I have it wired both ways, Sportsman 500 direct to battery and Ranger XP to the bus bar as it was easier to wire on the older XP.
 

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Hi Max! You are on the right track and some good advise above!! A few things about your drawing;
1. Your OEM terminal bar (what you have labeled 'Bus Bar')shows 4 terminals, there are only 3. The one you have labeled 'existing' is the "Keyed Hot" terminal - only hot when the ignition key is on.
2. You can hook your winch directly to the battery or to OEM terminal bar (usually easier). If you go to the OEM terminal bar, don't use the inline fuse you are showing.
3. The relay (I recommend the PAC-80 - easier to wire up) has 4 connections; "Positive in" from the OEM terminal block, "Pos out" from the relay to the fuse box. Both of these wires should be heavy gauge (6 or 4 ga). There are two smaller wires (16, 14, or 12ga) from the relay; one would go from the relay to the post you have labeled "Existing", and the other to ground (one of the ground terminals on your fuse box would work fine or you can run it to the Neg post (center) on the OEM terminal bar.
4. If you plan on using Contura switches (to match the other switches on your buggy) you can't beat Billy's write up -- it's spot on, especially if your ordered the harness with you light bars!
5. Run a ground (6 or 4 ga) from the center OEM terminal directly to the negative post on your new fuse box.
6. You will have a couple of more wires from your winch switch/contactor that will go to your new fuse box as well.

One of the most labor intensive parts of your project will be running two heavy gauge cables from your battery to your OEM terminal block. Polaris makes a nice harness to do that or you can build you own. If you plan on hooking up your winch to the OEM terminals, I would recommend 4ga cables from the battery to the terminal block.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Forde! I think I've absorbed everything you just posted! I did order the "Polaris Extended Power Cable Kit", and am waiting for it to come in. That's all I will need to run +,- to my OEM terminal bar right? Are those factory cables 4ga? I'll get rid of the inline fuse I had thought I needed.



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Great! Not sure what gauge the Polaris cables are - I think they may use metric sizes (?). Anyway, they should be good - they are the ones that come with the Polaris winch. Yes, that is all you will need to get power to the OEM terminal block--and they come with the correct connectors! As far as the fuse goes, if you put one there and then connect your winch to the OEM terms, it will act as a 'winch killer', unless you can find a 300 amp fuse - a typical winch can pull as much as 300+ amps.! If you want, you can put an 80 amp fuse (or circuit breaker) between the OEM term blk and relay, I don't, the fuses in the fuse box will protect all your accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, thanks! With a 50" light bar, a 24" light bar, and a winch, am I okay w/ just the stock battery or am I approaching the need for a larger battery or secondary battery?


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Ok, thanks! With a 50" light bar, a 24" light bar, and a winch, am I okay w/ just the stock battery or am I approaching the need for a larger battery or secondary battery?
Yeow! Some of those 50 inchers can really draw the juice. If you can find the specs, post watts or amps of each light and we'll do the math!
 

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I didn't install the winch. When I bought the Buggy it was one of the Add-Ons I had them install. It uses a Relay, and it is wired directly to the battery. In the pictures I have it marked with Green arrows
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Billy. I've been looking at your write up you did on the fuse block. Could you lead me in the right direction w/ this harness? This is my light bar harness. I have two of these and then will also need to create wiring for the winch switch. Id like for my switches to be done the same as yours(w/ the jumpers). Could you get me started as to what I need to do w/ this harness to get where you are?



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Your lights alone will draw 414 Watts (34.5 amps) so you should still be OK with one battery, as long as your engine is running when you use them, especially the 50". If you run those lights without the engine running (stator turning) the draw on your battery will be significant. Toss in a future radio/amp, or just about any other electrical accessory, and you'll be in the dual battery neighborhood!
 
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