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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2015 570 EPS Full Size.

Wired to my keyed accessory on the buss bar I have: Polaris stock under seat fuse panel, I added turn signals, horn, heater fan, winch (rocker & remote) controls...

I will be installing a 50" Auxbeam light bar 288w, DC 10V-30V.

I believe that the keyed stud on the buss has a 20A under the seat.

1. Can I continue to add accessories to that keyed stud?

2. Problems with my current wiring arrangement? Maybe move horn and winch switches to battery constant with in in-line fuse?

3. What's the best way to wire these accessories?
 

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Forde's advice is excellent. It's always wise to consider how much power is available from the source. The alternator system on these units doesn't put out much amperage at low RPMs so unless you have a large battery and run at higher RPMs long enough to replace what is used at low speeds you can overpower the charging system. These units are not like your automobile or truck which has a 100 amp or greater alternator. You cannot expect the alternator on a Ranger to supply as many accessories as your road vehicle will, certainly not all at once.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I read somewhere that people who use High amp draw accessories like, light bars, amplified stereo systems and subs understand they are overdrawing their charging system even with a battery upgrade, they just connect to a battery tender trickle charger after each use. Sounds like that might work for the time being until I can install this additional fuse block?


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For high current/Amp loads such as your winch or light bar, You will need to use relays for sure. Think of a control like your thermostat in your house and a load like your compressor outside. Control is 24 Volts and Load is 240V. There is a heavy duty switch (relay) for 240V load (compressor) which flips using 24V control (thermostat) to turn it on or off. Control off the keyed and load off your battery being fused close to battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For high current/Amp loads such as your winch or light bar, You will need to use relays for sure. Think of a control like your thermostat in your house and a load like your compressor outside. Control is 24 Volts and Load is 240V. There is a heavy duty switch (relay) for 240V load (compressor) which flips using 24V control (thermostat) to turn it on or off. Control off the keyed and load off your battery being fused close to battery.
Sure I understand. So I was concerned about the keyed accessory terminal and it’s 20A fuse. So I wire the light bar to constant battery power (with in-line fuse) and wire the relay to keyed accessory. So the 24amp draw of the light bar is not drawing from the keyed accessory but the constant battery power.

The relay amp draw (anyone know what amp that is?) is a load on the 20amp keyed accessory fuse. I’m I correct here?


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just like my winch. The winch and contactor are powered off the battery and the rocker switch that initiates the contactor is a draw on the keyed accessory. Anyone know what the winch rocker switch draws for amps?


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Sure I understand. So I was concerned about the keyed accessory terminal and it’s 20A fuse. So I wire the light bar to constant battery power (with in-line fuse) and wire the relay to keyed accessory. So the 24amp draw of the light bar is not drawing from the keyed accessory but the constant battery power.

The relay amp draw (anyone know what amp that is?) is a load on the 20amp keyed accessory fuse. I’m I correct here?


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You are correct. In Milliamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yeah, you have way too much on there already. The light bar takes 24 amps so it will blow the fuse as soon as you turn it on. Best bet is to install a an aux fuse box but you are still pushing the upper limits of the amps you have available from the stator/VR on a 570. http://www.prcforum.com/forum/24-ranger-technical/89209-adding-fuse-box.html
Awesome post. That install looks like a good summer job for me (shop teacher). Of course I’d be wiring the light bar to constant battery and only the relays to the keyed accessory (20A fuse). So total on the keyed accessory is just the relays to the above named accessories, winch rocker switch and all OEM. Should be fine as far as the 20A accessory fuse in concerned correct?

So my overlooked issue is battery draw vs. battery charge.


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WadO, you have a few options! Like Josh said, the judicious use of relays can be a real life saver! But unfortunately, the 570 stator doesn't generate the watts of a 900 or 1000. I'm not sure of the exact outputs but I believe the 900/1000 put out about 650 watts (about 54 amps) while the 570's only generate around 450 (about 37 amps) -- someone please correct me if I'm wrong! Of course, the stock buggy requirements are going to eat a bunch of those watts/amps and what's left over is available to you to run your accessories. Regardless of the model, we have to horde those precious amps like they are gold! You are right, a lot of folks will mount a huge light bar on just about any machine and you can also -- you just to be aware of the amp draw. Of course, you are only drawing those amps if you are using the light bar so if you only run it a few minutes at a time, when you actually need the light, the stator then has time to "catch up" on the charge to the battery. However, if you do a lot of night riding, you'll probably want to extend time you can run the extra light by replacing your battery with the biggest/baddest one you fit into your machine or a dual battery setup. You'll still be using amps faster than your stator can replace them, but you may be able to run a lot longer than you would with just the teeny stock battery -- then when you get home, put the battery(ies) on a charger to charge them up for your next ride.

You might want to stop and rethink your lighting requirements. Although a 50" light bar looks cool, it will be WAY more light than what you need. I have a 30" light bar on mine and it's enough light to find a dime in the grass 50 yards away at midnight - and I've saved a bunch of amps. Lighting has come a long way especially in the past year or so and if I had to do all over again, I would skip the light bar route and just go with the smaller light cubes - some of the newer ones put out a ton of light -- compare your lumens as you are shopping! And, of course, don't run the accessories you don't need. Most of the time, the stock headlights will do the job; save the lightbar for times that you actually need it. You mentioned having a winch. Running a big light bar while you're winching can kill your battery in a matter of minutes. A 4000 lb winch can draw up 300+ amps in a sticky winching situation so it's best to know your duty cycle of the winch (usually 15 seconds of pull, then 60 seconds of rest) and turn off everything electrical that you can while you're winching and keep your revs high (3000 RPMS or greater) to get the max out of your stator.

(Edit - Thanks Steve, for correcting me on the 570 stator output!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can use a 12V DC relay and remove the load of all the additional coils from keyed accessory stud. Just use it to power the one coil on the new relay and select a relay that can handle the correct amount of amperage. https://www.amazon.com/OLS-Waterproof-Relay-Switch-Harness/dp/B01N66W2XF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511899377&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+waterproof+relay&psc=1 Many different options of relays, just pick one that works for you. Also like Forde said add another fuse block.
It comes with a wire harness that includes the switch, fuse and a relay. I would hope Auxbeam would provide a stronger harness than the usual 20A for the bigger bars.

https://www.auxbeam.com/70023812
 

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So now what? I see hundreds of pics of rangers with 50-52” bars. How are people running those?


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The stock 570 alternator puts out 560 watts at high RPM, about half that at idle. The engine requires about 150 watts to run with fuel pump, ignition system, fuel injection and ECU. Add the radiator fan at about another 175 watts or so. That doesn't leave a lot for other accessories.

Your light bar uses about half the available output, provided the engine RPM is kept high enough to actually allow the alternator to put out full capacity.

How are people running accessories with this much draw? There are several possibilities.

1) A larger battery with higher capacity (more amp hours). The battery acts as a reservoir to provide enough watts during times of lower alternator output. The battery, of course, will eventually run down if watts drawn aren't replaced at some point. This could be done by charging between uses. Bear in mind that a battery does not produce electricity, it merely stores it.
2) Limiting use of other accessories and/or high draw accessories. In other words intermittent use of the light bar, using the light bar in place of and not in conjunction with headlights, etc. You get the idea.
3) Running in low range at all times the high draw accessories are in use. This keeps RPMs up and charging system output up.

It isn't a question of whether you can run the light bar or other high draw accessories, it's a matter of how long will the system hold up if you do. A winch, for instance is intermittent and occasional use. It draws a lot of juice but doesn't run constantly for hours. The charging system has a chance to replace what was used when the winch was operated between times of use. A light bar might be on the entire time you run at night, an hour, two, four? If the total draw on your system is greater than the output of your charging system you will eventually run short of power; lights will dim, the engine may not run properly because the engine requires power to run. Short runs compound the problem. If you drive for only 5 minutes and shut down the charging system hasn't had time to replace the current used even from the operation of the starter. Add in the use of high draw accessories for that time period and the battery is at a deficit. The charging system will have to work harder to replace what has already been used. Harder work usually equates to shorter life.

Back in my younger days there were people running tunnel ram intake manifolds with dual quads or Hilborn mechanical fuel injection on street cars. They ran but required continual attention to keep them running. These cars were used for Saturday night street races or to show off at the local drive in burger joint. They certainly weren't daily drivers or what could be considered dependable transportation. Perhaps the hundreds of Rangers you've seen with high watt light bars were like those cars I mentioned, more for show than for go, or perhaps their owners employed some of the things I mentioned above to enable the light bars to work.
 

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The relay amp draw (anyone know what amp that is?) is a load on the 20amp keyed accessory fuse.


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The relay draw will be in milliamps, depending upon the relay between 12 mA and 200 mA, not much at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thank you all so much. I was concerned about relay amp draw on accessory when I should have been more concerned about drain on battery. I really wish I would have ask this question before ordering a 288w light bar. I hope to cancel the order before shipment and find a smaller bar. The main use would be for plowing snow. I don't trail ride much so there would not be much for extended use. Probably 15mins to clear the driveway but yes I'd be using the winch momentarily with the light bar continually.

192W?

https://www.auxbeam.com/led-light-b...8W~209W],29-size[50inch],13-shape[Curved Bar]
 

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570 puts out 650 watts at 7000 RPM.
 
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My bad, 650 is correct.
 
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