That is why it is important to clean that area very well and install new o-rings frequently. I have also removed the foam disk we got with the mod. I fellt it kept the lid from seating. The air box lid is very importantt to seal and it takes great care to make sure it is done right. It is a lot easier to keep the filter straight while installing the lid since the new hose clamp holds it in place. You are right that the filter lid design is poor. it should have been made with 4 clamps and been made to push straight on, with the flange completely around the housing. If you continue to have leakage in the hinge area, you could try to run a bead of silicone on top of the o-ring in that area. If the lid is very uneven I would take it in for warranty and get another airbox. Nothing brings about change quicker than warranty claims.

 

You are on top of it Razorman. Thanks
Idahopilgrim

 

Thanks for sharing.

I'm amazed at how we keep finding aspects of the air-intake that have been under-engineered.

I'm really wondering how Polaris can reasonably "fix" it at all. Given their past attempts, it seems if it takes anymore than a few pieces of foam and a clamp, they will just ignore the problem.

 

That design is by purpose, I believe. If that area was flat, getting the lid on and off would be close to impossible. If one looks at the groove in the lid you will see it is not the same all around. It is designed to work with this offset. The 'O' ring groove is not the same depth all around. I really do not believe that off set has anything to do with sealing or not. I do not believe it would be possible to have more clips and be able to reach them to work them. The reason for the 'blind' upper catch is simple, no way to get to it to lock it down. Take the lid on and off a few times and study very careful how it as to work to get in the space available.

As one who has broken his share of these type of clips over the years, the reason they break is because not enough care is taking in the lid placement before using the clip. The clip is not to pull the lid into position, but to lock it, once placed. It is very, very easy to think the lid is seated when it is not. This spot is one for "double check" every-time. Want I mean: I have learned to stop before I pick up the tools and walk back through the job to make sure every bolt was tightened, every thing is back in position. This has saved me major problems more then once.

 

If it is by design or not I can tell you this. After a 15 mile dusty logging road trail TEST and after I pulled the duct tape of the air filter cap my air box was much cleaner than it has been it the pass. About as good as I have seen it. I will keep duct tape on the groove/cover until I get it to my dealer and let him look at it.
Idahopilgrim

 

I think one should inspect the 'O' Ring seal every time the lid is off. Clean out the groove, wipe down the 'O' ring and the lip. All it takes is a little dust to fall in the groove and the 'O' ring seal will not be able to seal. O rings take smooth services to seal against. Anything less then smooth will compromise the sealing ability.

 

This design on the air box cover is not all of the problem but a good deal of it. I'm a maintence freak and clean my air box after every outing, the 'O' ring seal/air box lid leaks and lets dust/dirt/sand into the air box. Yes, putting grease will help in the gap but duct tape over the area where the air box and air box lid have the gap/separation will help tremendously.

Look at the third picture down where the air box is laying on a flat surface. See the gap on the air box cover? Dust/dirt/sand love's to come in your air box there! Don't believe me test it with duct tape and without duct tape on a dusty trail.
Idahopilgrim
Man who drive Razor like hell will bound to get there!

 

Thanks Bob, I live in the Mojave Desert of S Cal & dust is a large factor. I've replaced the paper filter with Polaris's "high tech" foam. Tried to fill all gaps with silicon & alum tape in the cab air box. I will try the duct tape fix & see what happens. As they say - you can fix "anything with a hammer or duct tape" - I'll try the duct tape






s.

 

i am having a hard time trying to remove the air filter. i think there is a clamp behind it, but i can't get at it. i don't want to break something trying to pull it off? help!

 

Just pull harder. I thought the same thing... just pull it straight back... it will go.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dg rzr

i am having a hard time trying to remove the air filter. i think there is a clamp behind it, but i can't get at it. i don't want to break something trying to pull it off? help!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mines like that also, because I have the clamp nice and tight. If you wiggle the filter in a small circular patern as you take it off and put it on, you can keep it fitting tight without trying to get to that clamp. Redistribute the grease to the inside of the filter neck each time so it slips/seals like it should.

 

It really isn't that hard to get in there with a 1/4 inch rachet.

Brian

 

One thing that we all keep forgetting to take in consideration is, the air vent on the cabside/box is to small! And because of this, the motor is starving for air. It's pulling thru every little opening in the intake tract.

Here's an example: Take your shop vac and hook it up to a piece of 4" sewer pipe with several small holes drilled in the side. Turn it on and and run a lit cigar down the side next to the holes, there is very little to no vacume in these holes. Now block half of the end of the pipe and do the test again! Each little hole will now pull smoke.

So, adding an intake grill like a Holz, Lonestar, EHR or a Dirty Dawg is 90% of the fix.

Just my 2 cents.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MWSartain

One thing that we all keep forgetting to take in consideration is, the air vent on the cabside/box is to small! And because of this, the motor is starving for air. It's pulling thru every little opening in the intake tract.

Here's an example: Take your shop vac and hook it up to a piece of 4" sewer pipe with several small holes drilled in the side. Turn it on and and run a lit cigar down the side next to the holes, there is very little to no vacume in these holes. Now block half of the end of the pipe and do the test again! Each little hole will now pull smoke.

So, adding an intake grill like a Holz, Lonestar, EHR or a Dirty Dawg is 90% of the fix.

Just my 2 cents.

exactly, but it still needs a filter there - for the cvt if no other reason

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

 

Moondog, the duct tape in the air box gap will help considerably but when you stop to take a break make sure you take a look at your air box and at least take your old paper filter with one in case you need it. Have fun!
Idahopilgrim
"Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer."

 

I was told to put greese around o ring/lid
it helped, but still getting dust in from some were

 

Have you pulled the bed and the inspected the connection of the piece from the air box up into the bed. The O ring at the base has been an issue. Some have place sealer around the neck.

 

how hard is it to pull the bed? 5 minutes, 30 minutes?

 

about 10 mins.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dg rzr

how hard is it to pull the bed? 5 minutes, 30 minutes?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Check this:
http://prcforum.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4992&SearchTerms=bed,removal

 

i should have known this has already been addressed. great explanation. i printed it out for my files.
thanks