Has anybody hooked up a Isolator to the rzr? I bought a 70amp Cole Hersee Battery Isolator. Don't know if it is the right one. I have an yellow top optima battery in it as well as the stock battery. Can anyone give me the wiring schymatics on how to hook these's up? This is going on my polaris rzr. Please give any responce this would be most helpful. Thanks Lynn[/b]
Lynn
No instructions came with it? There should be two terminals on the isolator that are for the batteries. They may even be labled battery 1 and battery 2. I assume that the stock battery is still running the factory systems and the optima is running accesories. The two blue wires at the starter solenoid(under the drivers seat) need to go to the alternator post on the isolator. Then run a 10 gauge wire to the same terminal of the starter solenoid, from the isolator, to charge the main battery. Do the same for the accesory battery and run a 10 gauge wire straight to the positive terminal. There should only be three terminals on the regulator. Hope I didn't confuse you more. I had a hard time finding the right way to describe it tonight.
battery isolator
Where in the world do you install a second battery? I spent the last few days installing a winch (ViperMax 4500), aux. lights on the bumper and a horn kit. I didn't see any place another battery would fit unless you used the under hood storage or maybe the under seat storage for a small one.
Where in the world do you install a second battery? I spent the last few days installing a winch (ViperMax 4500), aux. lights on the bumper and a horn kit. I didn't see any place another battery would fit unless you used the under hood storage or maybe the under seat storage for a small one.
Myers, Thanks for all the help, it works great!!!! as for your quetion to rogerpjr small stock battery underneath the seat storage with the lid over it so you cannot see the battery. Thanks everybody for all you help. It's nice to be able to come to a great site like this one and get help or info. Thanks Lynn :lol:
Isolator
Mike,
Is there high enough voltage coming from the alternator to adequately charge the battery(s) with the isolater in the system? I'd assume that the isolator consists of two very large silicon 'steering' diodes which might have a voltage drop across each of them as much as 0.7 volts.
I replaced my stock battery with an Oddessy 925 which, with a modified battery box, is now in the original location. I might consider mounting a second 925 under the seat(Gen 1 RZR) or even the original stock battery there, and use it to power the normal RZR functions and the first 925 to operate the assessories such as all my additional driving and work lights and my ham radio transceiver.
Not to worry, I won't be installing a large stereo system, so I can impress all the campers and campground hosts and the hikers and equestrians on the trail. The VHF/UHF ham radio will be used for emergencies, wildland fire communication support, and search and rescue missions. It's a 50 watt output system so it can draw some serious amperage when in operation.
BTW, what do you recommend for a reasonale size and price isolater ?
Chuck
Mike,
Is there high enough voltage coming from the alternator to adequately charge the battery(s) with the isolater in the system? I'd assume that the isolator consists of two very large silicon 'steering' diodes which might have a voltage drop across each of them as much as 0.7 volts.
I replaced my stock battery with an Oddessy 925 which, with a modified battery box, is now in the original location. I might consider mounting a second 925 under the seat(Gen 1 RZR) or even the original stock battery there, and use it to power the normal RZR functions and the first 925 to operate the assessories such as all my additional driving and work lights and my ham radio transceiver.
Not to worry, I won't be installing a large stereo system, so I can impress all the campers and campground hosts and the hikers and equestrians on the trail. The VHF/UHF ham radio will be used for emergencies, wildland fire communication support, and search and rescue missions. It's a 50 watt output system so it can draw some serious amperage when in operation.
BTW, what do you recommend for a reasonale size and price isolater ?
Chuck
Re: Isolator
Most of the good isolators have no voltage drop that is significant. I can't say that I have ever had a problem and had to check it though either.
And last but not least, NO, the stator will not keep both of batteries charged but will add more capacity to the system. If you mainly run at night you will need to charge more often. I would highly recommend hard-wiring a trickle charger to the isolator when installing and that way all you have to do is plug in an extension cord when you park it.
The voltage is high enough but the amperage available from the stator is not.
I would say that around 40.00 is a decnt price. I always use 95 amp or higher isolators. It's what I have available to me. (Napa has these)Chuck said:
Most of the good isolators have no voltage drop that is significant. I can't say that I have ever had a problem and had to check it though either.
And last but not least, NO, the stator will not keep both of batteries charged but will add more capacity to the system. If you mainly run at night you will need to charge more often. I would highly recommend hard-wiring a trickle charger to the isolator when installing and that way all you have to do is plug in an extension cord when you park it.
The voltage is high enough but the amperage available from the stator is not.
Mike,
Thanks for the info. Harbour Freight has "float" chargers that are meant to do, and mount, as you recommend. They provide up to a 1.5 amp charge rate when the battery needs charging and then taper off to a float mode, which can apparantly be left connected indefinitely. They often are less thatn $10 during a H.F. sale.
H.F. has two models. The one you want is the larger one with the snap cover over the 115VAC input socket. The unit is reasonably water resistant.
Chuck
Thanks for the info. Harbour Freight has "float" chargers that are meant to do, and mount, as you recommend. They provide up to a 1.5 amp charge rate when the battery needs charging and then taper off to a float mode, which can apparantly be left connected indefinitely. They often are less thatn $10 during a H.F. sale.
H.F. has two models. The one you want is the larger one with the snap cover over the 115VAC input socket. The unit is reasonably water resistant.
Chuck
Something to consider is that most dual battery isolators/seperators were designed for 12v systems with an alternator and higher charge rate. we only deal with 500w without Rangers so its significantly less. depending on if its internally or externaly regulated, your standard alternator require a voltage sense wire, without it you lose .5vdc of charge.
I think that with a 12v stator charging system this seperator would work better. I found 2 different types, each has a difference direction of charge (uni or bi) I am in the process of wiring mine up for my stereo, lights and winch with a new odyssey so i may use the 1314.
Food for thought. I also stopped into 2 of the most highly recommended auto electric stores asking for a dual battery isolator and both the guys handed me a sure power 1314 and said the normal isolator/separators.
From the site
"The 1314 (unidirectional) and 1315 (bidirectional) are 100A battery separator modules with an integrated relay for 12V systems. The units monitor both the main and auxiliary battery banks. If the main battery (for the 1314) or either battery bank (for the 1315) is above the connect threshold, the relay connects the two banks together. If the main battery (for the 1314) or either batteries (for the 1315) are below the disconnect threshold the unit will open the relay. The connect threshold is set to a nominal voltage of 13.2V, which would only be reached when the charging system is operating. This will cause the relay to close and the charging system can charge both banks of batteries. The disconnect voltage is set to a nominal 12.7V, which is near the full charge resting voltage of the batteries. This will cause the relay to be opened shortly after the engine is stopped, attempting to preserve 100% of the starting battery capacity for engine cranking. An optional start override is also available. When the engine is started, the start signal causes the controller to check if the auxiliary battery is within about 1V of the main battery; if so, the relay contact is closed. Thus providing the starter system with maximum battery voltage available. "
http://surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf
I think that with a 12v stator charging system this seperator would work better. I found 2 different types, each has a difference direction of charge (uni or bi) I am in the process of wiring mine up for my stereo, lights and winch with a new odyssey so i may use the 1314.
Food for thought. I also stopped into 2 of the most highly recommended auto electric stores asking for a dual battery isolator and both the guys handed me a sure power 1314 and said the normal isolator/separators.
From the site
"The 1314 (unidirectional) and 1315 (bidirectional) are 100A battery separator modules with an integrated relay for 12V systems. The units monitor both the main and auxiliary battery banks. If the main battery (for the 1314) or either battery bank (for the 1315) is above the connect threshold, the relay connects the two banks together. If the main battery (for the 1314) or either batteries (for the 1315) are below the disconnect threshold the unit will open the relay. The connect threshold is set to a nominal voltage of 13.2V, which would only be reached when the charging system is operating. This will cause the relay to close and the charging system can charge both banks of batteries. The disconnect voltage is set to a nominal 12.7V, which is near the full charge resting voltage of the batteries. This will cause the relay to be opened shortly after the engine is stopped, attempting to preserve 100% of the starting battery capacity for engine cranking. An optional start override is also available. When the engine is started, the start signal causes the controller to check if the auxiliary battery is within about 1V of the main battery; if so, the relay contact is closed. Thus providing the starter system with maximum battery voltage available. "
http://surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf
Battery Isolater
I called and talked to an Applications Tech at Sure Power. He definitely recommended their model # 1314 Separater. Just as I expected the Isolater models are not suitable for simple alternator systems like that in the RZR. Unless the Alternator is capable of accepting a "sense" voltage from the battery and adjusting for the voltage drop across the Isolator(steering diodes), then it will not produce a high enough voltage to charge the batttery(s) properly and fully. The Separator has a large relay instead, that has zero voltage drop across it. The built in sense circuitry in the Separator basicly directs the charging voltage, via the relay, to the battery that needs it the most.
The primary battery, the one that is used to start the RZR and run its motor electical/electronic circuits, will have top/first priority to be charged.
Unfortuantely this all comes with a price. Their Separator is about three times the price of their Isolators. He qouted me a MSRP of just over $100.
He said that Polaris has a kit available using a separator, so that you may install and charge two batteries. One for motor start and run and one for your accessories.
I'm certain that this "kit" is considerably more than the Sure Power Separator priice of $100. The rest of the installation is quite simple as Mike indicated above.
Does any one have any connections through Napa, Checkers, or other auto electric distributors, that can get us a more favorable price ? I'd imagine that an automotive repair shop would be entitled to a 20% to 40 % discount.
Chuck
I called and talked to an Applications Tech at Sure Power. He definitely recommended their model # 1314 Separater. Just as I expected the Isolater models are not suitable for simple alternator systems like that in the RZR. Unless the Alternator is capable of accepting a "sense" voltage from the battery and adjusting for the voltage drop across the Isolator(steering diodes), then it will not produce a high enough voltage to charge the batttery(s) properly and fully. The Separator has a large relay instead, that has zero voltage drop across it. The built in sense circuitry in the Separator basicly directs the charging voltage, via the relay, to the battery that needs it the most.
The primary battery, the one that is used to start the RZR and run its motor electical/electronic circuits, will have top/first priority to be charged.
Unfortuantely this all comes with a price. Their Separator is about three times the price of their Isolators. He qouted me a MSRP of just over $100.
He said that Polaris has a kit available using a separator, so that you may install and charge two batteries. One for motor start and run and one for your accessories.
I'm certain that this "kit" is considerably more than the Sure Power Separator priice of $100. The rest of the installation is quite simple as Mike indicated above.
Does any one have any connections through Napa, Checkers, or other auto electric distributors, that can get us a more favorable price ? I'd imagine that an automotive repair shop would be entitled to a 20% to 40 % discount.
Chuck
Battery Isolater
Some good news !
I located a discounted Sure Power Separator via the internet. It was only $62.57 (MSRP = $100+) plus USPS shipping.
I'm buying it through ASE Supply Inc.
I think that it will perform better than a simpler (but much cheaper) Stinger Electronics high power relay.
Chuck
Some good news !
I located a discounted Sure Power Separator via the internet. It was only $62.57 (MSRP = $100+) plus USPS shipping.
I'm buying it through ASE Supply Inc.
I think that it will perform better than a simpler (but much cheaper) Stinger Electronics high power relay.
Chuck
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