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Ok, you guys have got to stop using verbiage like " proud" . Had to look it up.........:). The insert sticks "proudly" above the case on the 700's but the coil is recessed in the insert and that coil (black ring) is what I thought Bart was talking about that raised up out of the insert.........or did the whole insert rise up out of the housing ???? I have never had a coil problem but I check them for position of course when I have the cases apart. Looking closely at Bart's photo, no sign of the insert above the coil (black ring) so that is why I am thinking he somehow removed the coil (black ring) and machined off the metal insert or ????? I could be crazy but I would just like to get this clear in what's left of my mind .
 
And while on this discussion, I can’t express the importance of regularly changing your front Gear Case fluid.

The metal fines and grit in the fluid ride between the metal ring in the pic and your Armature plate, increasing the rate of wear.
That is the absolute truth. 90% of problems with Ranger gear cases can be avoided just by keeping the fluids clean.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
OK, So the coil never looked like it had come out. Before we machined the lips off, My main machinist tried pressing on it himself. He is really good at pressing things back into place. He told me that the coil was seated all the way so i figured that the raised lip where what Jungle was talking about. I had measured the lips while i was pressing on the outer lip and they where about 30-40 thousands. I really didn't thinks that, that amount of movement would make that big of a difference. Could i make a new shim and place in front of the armature??
 
Thanks for returning Bart ! By "LIPS" are you talking about the insert that the coil is recessed into ?


"OK, So the coil never looked like it had come out.".......................Hmmmmmm, you kinda forgot to mention that.. it was " we are also thinking maybe the coil it's self has come out of the housing it sits in and is not longer flush"
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Yes i think the same thing. The small back story is i got this ranger free from a buddy of mine. He needed it for a few weeks before i could pick it up and his ranch hands were using it to rebuild a fence. Everything was working when he gave it to me, but in the few weeks they had it when all the problems started to happen. like normal humans they continued to drive it messed up. now im left back tracking all the little things that were bad on the ranger. Everything from bushings, wheel bearings, ball joints, and the front diff.
 
Let me try to summarize...............Soooooooooooooooo, your coil (black ring) was recessed a bit into the metal insert (which is normal and required) that sticks slightly out of the housing ? And then the machinist put it into the lathe and removed the portion of the metal insert that was sticking out past the housing ?
 
Thanks to Greg and Kris for trying to help me understand. Sorry about the "proud" word. I'm not certain why I chose that term. I guess I've been reading too many books lately and improving my vocabulary.
 
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that is correct, but it also corrected the issue
I was thinking it should of worked before the insert was machined down with everything you've said now about the position of the coil . It will be interesting and I hope you will keep us informed of any new developments . Thanks for coming back on and filling in the blanks ! That is how we learn :)
 
No worries, lol now I'm not getting 12 volts at my plug. I get 12 volt off the back of the switch put nothing at the plug...story of my life
Wire damage ?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Does not look like. I still have been able to figure it out.
I think I'm going to take the diff back to the shop and maybe look into adding a shim. I measured the lip I removed and it was about 37 thousands
 
Anyone know what this is?? My guess is a aftermarket fusible link. I'm not getting any continuity
That is your Starter Diode.
It appears you have some electrical problems from the looks of that fuse box.

EDIT: After looking closer at the pics, it appears I was mistakenly taking the Dielectric Grease for possible melting of the buss bar.
Have you checked the connections and fuses on the bar.
 
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