I don't think you can drill that dowel out, it's awfully hard. The only real luck I've had is with the engine running usually I can get it to pop out. You might try with the engine running use a torch to heat the relief valve area on the case to see if you can get it to expand enough to pop out of there. Do that at your own risk I guess. Maybe try using a punch and tap the dowel downward to see if you can get it loose, not sure it's doing that with engine running is a good idea or not maybe a last resort?. Worst case scenario guys have had to take the engine out to get to the oil pressure relief valve and tap it out from the oil pump side of the crankcase. The small block Chevy dowel pin fix does work, used it on my 2011 and 2012 800 with good success, looks like quite a few have taken that idea and ran with it

 

Ok thanks should I put the exhaust back on and let it run for more than 2-3 minutes?? 2-3 minutes is the most that I have tried with a little throttle to see if it will come out. I leave my magnet on it while it is running and it seems to have a little oil on it when I pull it out. Is there a chance it’s not in there?

 

Any work on the oil pressure relief valve I have done on the 800 I take the exhaust off followed by the front crossmember so I can get full access to the oil pressure relief valve. if the plug is out an engine is running, without a valve in place you would have lots of oil blowing out of there, so I am thinking for sure your valve is still in there. I would use a punch and tap on it lightly to see if you can push the valve down to unstick it. Then try to use the engine oil pressure to push it out again. This may take more than one attempt. usually the valve sticking in the open position is what takes out the valve train and rod bearings because it causes low oil pressure. So more than likely the valve is stuck open in the upward position or at least was at some point in the past

 

The one I did was I removed the spring from the relief valve push the pin down (if Possible) put the bolt back in (with out spring) and had a oil pressure gauge hooked up and ran the bike,
when the oil pressure went sky high turned the bike off removed the plug and pressed down on the pin and did it all over again (about 20 times) and the pin worked its way out.

 

That seems like it may be my next step. I tapped it last night with zero movement so I’m guessing it froze in the bottom. Here is a pic of the access hole I drilled with step bit.

 

Hey guys, never have had the pleasure of uncorking one of these mutha's but wouldnt a couple doses of Liquid Wrench help to cut the crap and help break things free. I realize there is some dissimilar metal action going on but it just seems a load of Marvels Mystery Oil and some light tapping would go along way to breaking it loose.

 

I always tried to use something like that, I actually had the best luck with Lucas synthetic engine oil additive. It's the most slippery stuff I've ever got my hands on. But expensive.

It's the galling that keeps those baby's stuck in there.

if you've got the plug threaded in a little ways with the sping out, I wouldn't be afraid once you start it to give it a quick revv and see if you can spike the oil pressure and blast that sucker free.

At some point if you don't get it , you have to weigh your time against just pulling the engine and taking the crankcase apart to get it out that way.

 

Oh that sounds horrible I will sell it as is Or trade it for them before I take that engine all the way apart. They have sunk a ton of money in it and I am only doing the minimum to re coup that. Father in law had a stroke do they added power steering. Had it serviced at same time. Engine blew less than 3 hours later. Licensed dealership service claims hours. Engine was the replaced with a refurbished one. And now we have added almost a grand to that turd. I am sure after I get this fixed it will be a decent unit for someone. But they are done with it. Good thing my labor is free.

 

Just for reference my dowel is 1.25” from the outside shoulder.

 

I put the plug back in and drove it a little down the driveway. Runs ridiculously perfect. Going to go back and run it one more time. Try to tap on that area. And hope it’s free. Fingers crossed

 

Ok plug in idling fine. Revved up a few times. Tapped on housing. Pulled plug. Nothing.
Started engine. Let warm up again. Revved up again a few times. Started to get oil!! But magnet back in still at 1.25 depth and tried again. More tapping more oil. More oil even running oil a bit. Shut off and still no luck. Was ready to try again but now it won’t start ?‍♂??

 

And of course these just showed up ?‍♂

 

Do these rangers have a oil level sensor that would cut the spark?

 

No, But on my 800s if the oil press relief valve got stuck shut it will spike the oil pressure as soon as the ranger starts bring the oil pressure so high that it will pump up the lifters, causing the valves to float and then will kill the engine. Usually waiting a few minutes for the lifters to bleed down the engine will try to re-start.
As soon as that thing tries to fire I would have the pedal down so that the engine can rev and try to spike the oil pressure enough to push that dowel up.

 

Ok I will have to try again Tomorrow. Feel like I made some headway... but it’s early

 

I would say you have started to move it if the lifters a pumping up to much, see if you can push it down again (a little bit of force) and run again till oil pressure goes of the scale pull the plug and push it down again (repeat) don't worry about measurements you will feel it move when you push it, little by little it may came out.
Took me 20 plus goes to free the one i did.

 

So are most of you taking the motor mount off and leaving exhaust on?

 

So I went back to see if would start this morning and the valves must still be floating be cause it won’t start at all just crank

 

jeep , it is easy to tell when all the valves are open because the engine turns over like it is on steroids .....like it has NO COMPRESSION. I am thinking you have something else going on.. Got spark & fuel ? Fouled plugs ?

 

I agree just not sure why it would go from starting easy and running to nothing. Will have to start over tonight

 

So Beav, is it turning over with compression .......or not ?

 

I feel like it has some without putting the tester to it and sitting 30 miles away at work. I agree it always makes you think spark or fuel. But it also seems like a low oil level kind of shutoff but as I know now these engines don’t have such a sensor. So it lottery ran perfect. I shut it off to check dowel. And now it won’t start. It definitely cranks easy. But I feel like there is something compression.
so after I put the cam lifters spark plugs and injectors on. This is how it acted. It never really idled until I took the exhaust off. So then I vacuumed out the exhaust to make sure nothing was blocking it. And started messing with dowel. Ran really smooth until current event. Even with exhaust back on.

 

Update. Took the valve cover off and the exhaust push rods aren’t even making contact.

 

Looks like you found the no start cause. Pushrods bent? Valves stuck? Rocker arms frozen?

 

Well my guess is a collapsed lifter or the entire lobe of the cam fell off. Question is do I replace it or is there a engine process that should prime it and be fine

 

Quick read tells me this is just another side effect of the oil pressure relief valve ?‍♂