I've talked with them and want one bad!!

Please post a review as soon as you get it on!

 

Man, let us know how you like it. I am getting one as soon as the funds are available. The MSRP is in line with a complete setup from DDP.

 

I will do a update with pics.i should have it Wednesday.

 

Talked to those guys a couple of times on the clutch and there tracks. I thing it will be a great product

 

this is what you get.the last pic. is the torque stop that comes with it.I will update with performance.

• CONTINUOUS BELT ENGAGEMENT
  No Belt Burning, Longer Belt Life
• POSITIVE ENGINE BRAKING
  Excellent Downhill Control
• 50% MORE PULLING FORCE AT START
  Twin Centrifugal Clutches

 

Looks great. Cant wait to here the performance review.

 

Nice.....can't wait to hear the performance report.

 

Looking forward to a review!

What is the function of the torque stop?

 

I ordered an SVI Duraclutch Friday of last week and received it Wednesday of this week.

Some background on my setup and issues with previous clutches. My Diesel is a 2011 and its original clutch was a unit similar to the 2009 and prior (I think) clutches. There is no center roller bearing and it's overall a simple reliable clutch with no engine braking. However, the 2011 with this clutch has some issues with hard shifting due to a number of factors. Basically since the diesel engine has a limited rpm range, Polaris had to do as much as they could with the range they had. Factory idle is approx. 1050 rpm and it governs out at around 3850 rpm. To make the most of this rpm range, Polaris tried to have the clutch engage as fast as possible and really cut back on clearances between the primary clutch sheaves and belt. This made some factory units have hard to impossible shifting due to clutch drag.

Polaris had a service bulletin for hard shifting and their fix for the 2011 clutch was a cheap (about $40), but effective, primary spring and secondary shim. The primary spring raised engagement rpm slightly and the secondary shim spread the secondary apart slightly. The clutch would now engage at around 1500 rpm instead of the previous 1250 rpm.

The 2012 and up Diesels use a version of the standard Polaris clutch with a roller center bearing. I bought a clutch like this and wasn't really satisfied it. Mostly I was unsatisfied because I didn't get the performance I expected and I paid for an entire 2012+ clutch. My engagement rpm was around 1250-1350 rpm but I still had some drag that produced hard shifting. I found that my clutches were slightly misaligned from the factory and shimmed it as close as I could get. This improved the drag issue but never did totally resolve it. At this point the drag was better than the original 2011 clutch but not quite as good as the modified 2011 clutch. My 2012 clutch had a particular issue where the clearances were so tight that when the belt was cold, shifting was perfect and all measurements with feeler gauges were well within spec. However, after getting the belt warm, it would expand slightly and those good clearances were no longer good, resulting in drag. Because of this and especially due to cost, I thought the modified 2011 clutch was the best bang for the buck.

Both the 2011 clutch and the 2012+ clutches do not have engine braking and have the same clutch feel as any other Polaris I've ridden. In this case I'm talking about the jerky engagement that comes from the pulley acting as both a clutch and a transmission. Easing into the throttle causes a jerky start due to the belt slipping and the best way I've read to overcome this was just to stab the throttle slightly to cause the pulley sheaves to come together and cut back on slippage.



Now to the good part.... as I'd mentioned earlier I received the Duraclutch this week. I was able to install it today and take it on a ride. I can honestly say, so far, that it has performed flawlessly and is everything is is promised to be. It is the absolute best modification I've made to my Ranger.

The best thing about the Duraclutch is that it separates the clutching action from the pulleys. It lets the pulleys act as a CVT and uses twin centrifugal clutches for clutching. The belt is constantly in tension and is constantly pinched by the pulleys. The centrifugal clutches are very smooth in engagement and since the belt is already pinched, starting the Ranger is much more smooth in all conditions. There is also no drag and no hard shifting with this clutch, even after riding hard and getting everything warmed up fully.

An additional bonus that I had never experienced was engine braking. I'm not able to compare it to the standard Polaris EBS since I've never owned one, I can say that the Duraclutch braking is very effective, even with a diesel. I would say a gas engine with the Duraclutch would perform much better in braking! The thought of an exhaust brake did cross my mind, but the valve springs are probably pretty light and I would be afraid of floating an exhaust valve during braking.

The Duraclutch uses a standard Polaris belt and fits under the regular CVT cover. The belt is not the same belt the stock Diesel clutches use, but is a common belt used on a much more powerful machine.

 

I ordered an SVI Duraclutch Friday of last week and received it Wednesday of this week.

Some background on my setup and issues with previous clutches. My Diesel is a 2011 and its original clutch was a unit similar to the 2009 and prior (I think) clutches. There is no center roller bearing and it's overall a simple reliable clutch with no engine braking. However, the 2011 with this clutch has some issues with hard shifting due to a number of factors. Basically since the diesel engine has a limited rpm range, Polaris had to do as much as they could with the range they had. Factory idle is approx. 1050 rpm and it governs out at around 3850 rpm. To make the most of this rpm range, Polaris tried to have the clutch engage as fast as possible and really cut back on clearances between the primary clutch sheaves and belt. This made some factory units have hard to impossible shifting due to clutch drag.

Polaris had a service bulletin for hard shifting and their fix for the 2011 clutch was a cheap (about $40), but effective, primary spring and secondary shim. The primary spring raised engagement rpm slightly and the secondary shim spread the secondary apart slightly. The clutch would now engage at around 1500 rpm instead of the previous 1250 rpm.

The 2012 and up Diesels use a version of the standard Polaris clutch with a roller center bearing. I bought a clutch like this and wasn't really satisfied it. Mostly I was unsatisfied because I didn't get the performance I expected and I paid for an entire 2012+ clutch. My engagement rpm was around 1250-1350 rpm but I still had some drag that produced hard shifting. I found that my clutches were slightly misaligned from the factory and shimmed it as close as I could get. This improved the drag issue but never did totally resolve it. At this point the drag was better than the original 2011 clutch but not quite as good as the modified 2011 clutch. My 2012 clutch had a particular issue where the clearances were so tight that when the belt was cold, shifting was perfect and all measurements with feeler gauges were well within spec. However, after getting the belt warm, it would expand slightly and those good clearances were no longer good, resulting in drag. Because of this and especially due to cost, I thought the modified 2011 clutch was the best bang for the buck.

Both the 2011 clutch and the 2012+ clutches do not have engine braking and have the same clutch feel as any other Polaris I've ridden. In this case I'm talking about the jerky engagement that comes from the pulley acting as both a clutch and a transmission. Easing into the throttle causes a jerky start due to the belt slipping and the best way I've read to overcome this was just to stab the throttle slightly to cause the pulley sheaves to come together and cut back on slippage.



Now to the good part.... as I'd mentioned earlier I received the Duraclutch this week. I was able to install it today and take it on a ride. I can honestly say, so far, that it has performed flawlessly and is everything is is promised to be. It is the absolute best modification I've made to my Ranger.

The best thing about the Duraclutch is that it separates the clutching action from the pulleys. It lets the pulleys act as a CVT and uses twin centrifugal clutches for clutching. The belt is constantly in tension and is constantly pinched by the pulleys. The centrifugal clutches are very smooth in engagement and since the belt is already pinched, starting the Ranger is much more smooth in all conditions. There is also no drag and no hard shifting with this clutch, even after riding hard and getting everything warmed up fully.

An additional bonus that I had never experienced was engine braking. I'm not able to compare it to the standard Polaris EBS since I've never owned one, I can say that the Duraclutch braking is very effective, even with a diesel. I would say a gas engine with the Duraclutch would perform much better in braking! The thought of an exhaust brake did cross my mind, but the valve springs are probably pretty light and I would be afraid of floating an exhaust valve during braking.

The Duraclutch uses a standard Polaris belt and fits under the regular CVT cover. The belt is not the same belt the stock Diesel clutches use, but is a common belt used on a much more powerful machine.


View attachment 4169


View attachment 4170

How's it working for ya


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Excellent review Dave. Thanks !

 

Thanks for the review...I've been following this thread. Wondering about the long term durability of the centrifical clutch components.

 

I'm really not worried about the centrifugal clutch at all. The amount of surface area available is pretty large, from what I can tell there is more clutch surface area available than there is belt surface area available for most low speed or high torque operation. Only when the primary is up shifted a bit does the ratio of belt to clutch surface area change in favor if the belt. There is also a lot of clutch material available to take care of any wear.

In talking with Mitchell, the amount of testing that they've done without failure is more than I would ride in around 10 years. Even then the clutch was still in good shape in their testing.

I believe this type of design is used by another manufacturer as well. The clutch is made by team industries, same as the stock cluch.

 

Good to hear. Keep us posted in the future with clutch performance please.

 

Well i finally got the clutch installed.what a good set up.Dave(DaveB.inVa) said it all.you guys with big tires or mud guys this clutch is 4 u.this thing will pull a house,no belt slipping or burning.as for the engine braking in high gear flat road the belt will stay locked in down to 4 mph.going down hill about the same.in low it will stay locked in down to a stop.
Has great low and mid range pull.top end about the same as stock,maybe 1-2 miles faster.AS for the belt i am using the Gates #24C4022 G-Force Carbon Cord CVT Belts; G-Force C12; 1 1/4" x 41 3/8",or you can use the polaris 162 or 133 belts
You cant ask for better people to deal with over at Duraclutch.

Thanks,Mitchell,Tim and Brent.

 

now something else to save up for great T&S hope to gat one by next year let us know how they hold up you guys are the true test

 

I had been watching this and waiting to hear some feedback. Unfortunately, I just ordered a clutch kit for mine a few days ago and it should be here tomorrow. I hope it performs as well as anticipated.

 

looking at the pictures of this new duraclutch It appears to almost be exactly what the yamaha Viking is using. except on a smaller scale. Unfortunatly for this design it will still be exposed to massive amounts of dirt which will wear everything out prematurely (unlike the completely sealed Yamaha clutch). It looks to be a much better design over stock, but I wouldn't be on them holding up any longer.