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Mine didn't have a hot seat problem until I put an aluminum shield between the header and gas tank and added a full skid plate.


On my 500 there are indentions on the driver and passenger sides of the front panel. I have been looking at them and thinking I could mount a fan towards the top of each. I was also thinking I could put vents on the indentions and put the fan or fans behind the engine and pull the air out. But everyone here is pushing air in not pulling it out so maybe that would not be the thing to do. What is the reason that all of you push rather than pull the air? Any way I have read all 13 pages of this and Im still not sure what would be the best thing to do.
 
I push air over the header vs pulling air from the engine compartment. My logic is I can direct the cool air to the major source of heat - the exhaust pipe/header. I am sure you could pull air as well, but I think you would need a higher cfm blower.
 
wrapped the gas tank in heat sheild wrap and I didnt have gas come out of the tank vent.. anyone tried coating the header sheilds in high temp paint? Just a thought.. not sure if it would help...

2014 ranger 800xp
I wrapped the header with header wrap - that and the fan eliminated the hot seat and cut the fan cycling on and off by over 1/2.
 
I thought the header wrap rots the pipe?

2014 ranger 800xp
I saw that on here. The wrap 'may' hold some moisture if you spray it with water when its cold and let it sit. If you run the motor for a few minutes after it gets wet all the moisture will evaporate. After wrapping the header you are supposed to spray it down with a special high temp spray to protect it.
 
Ok after talking with Thermo Tec I ordered enough heat barrier to cover the under side of the seat on my 500. I'm going to try that first and if it doesn't solve my hot butt problem I will mount a Spal fan. From what I read here it sounds like everyone is mounting there fan on the inside and some are having problems with warping or melting the fan. Spal makes a 7 1/2 inch and a 6 1/2 inch low profile pusher fan. I'm thinking of getting one of those and mounting it outside the engine compartment in the indention on the front. Do any of you see were I might have a problem with that? Also If I install a fan do I need a switch ? I am thinking of wiring it so that it runs any time that the key is on. So once more do any of you see a problem with doing it that way or should I go through a switch?
 
Crazy we have to do this to fix a problem that Polaris will not fix, another way to get there attention would be for all of us to complain to the BBB for your area and hit them up. This would surely get the attention of corporate and make them do something.

I have around $18,000.00 wrapped up in mine, all Polaris parts. The seat becomes unbearable and while I do have the fan, I just have not had the time to put it on yet.

Most of the problems I can see is this.

The motor sits in a box with an open back, there is no airflow into the box. The underside has a skid plate, the front and sides are solid which leaves the back open only. The only way to go is to install fans, but installing fans increases the noise inside a fully enclosed cab like mine, which will also make it pull more air in from the front in turn dragging in heat from the radiator.

This whole unit is a serious design floor, the lack of response from Polaris seals the deal for me. I shall be looking at other brands in the future, I can't be having a $18,000.00 ass cooker that I can't enjoy in the spring/summer/fall seasons.
 
It's a shame we can't figure out why some 800's don't have this issue. I feel for you guys that are fighting this.

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Stevensinks....somewhere on this site I posted a photo I think of 1" thick x 24" wide - 2200* ceramic blanket that I use in a wood stove I make.....I trimmed it to fit , it kept the dust out yes...BUT the cab, seat, behind your legs....everything was cooking. It was a beautiful 55* Maine day out. ONLY after I added header wrap, a blower with flex duct blowing the heat back and out did the issue stop. I mounted my blower (3") behind the driver seat area on the side sucking air in where the bed/box meets the cab. I also made an aluminum heat shield under the seat over the engine , then added flexible rolled heat shield over that. A pain I know...but I fixed it. If you look at my profile...you'll see the pics.
 
I did read here or elsewhere a guy was into racing and sent his header and exhaust pipe out to get them coated. He said it fixed the issue. As far as the header wrap getting wet. I never drive under water and only presser wash a few times a year. If it rots out in a year....I'll know not to do it again.
 
Several members have used the ceramic coatings and reported good results - maybe they will chime in...
Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings
 
Don't wast ur money on the Jet Hot coating. I got the best coating they offerd. The salesman all out lied to me and he was unaware that I took before and after temp readings with an infrared camera. I spoke with someone higher up in the company at Jet Hot, and was given a full refund.
The coating was $300.00, $20 to UPS it to them, and $30 for a new exhaust manifold gasket.
By coating the pipe it will allow you to wrap it with header tape, without the worry if rust and corrosion.
By the way I did that also and it did not help much at all.
 
I hooked my blower to the fuel pump wire on top of the gas tank under the passenger side seat. When you turn the key on you hear the fuel pump start and cycle and shut off. I used a test light with a point to find the hot wire. Then tapped into it. My blower is kinda loud. A lot of times I'm going a very short distance, So I wish I had installed a on/off switch for the blower. Just a thought.
 
Gonna take a temperature gun with me tomorrow if I can find it. if we go ride I will see what the actual temperature of the seat is before the ride and in 15 minute intervals throughout the ride. Going to measure both the driver and passenger seat temp at each stop.
make shore the seat has metal pins the plastic ones get hot and snap John
 
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